Relocation of main fuse block


I have a 79 Scout Traveler - 345, 4bblTQ, 727TF, a/c, tilt, p/s, cruise control, D44 front and back. This restoration project has taken me about 30 + years (four kids, three houses, health issues) to complete, and I am almost there! While I work on this beast, I will be posting "questions" and pictures along the way, over the next 30-60 days. My goal is to complete and have it running by Mid-March 2021 (or sooner). The Traveler has been garaged all this time.

So, my first question is: I have the entire dash apart, have inspected all wiring, looking for bad or frayed wiring: and all looks good! My question is about the plastic/composite main fuse block. It is located inside and way up under the dash (drivers side). It is almost impossible to get to (I am 6'7" tall) and I was wondering: is it possible (or has anyone done this already) to relocate the fuse block to the other side of the firewall - just above and to the right of the brake booster? I am also interested in trying to "convert" the glass fuses with the newer ATO type (but without having to swap out the original fuse block (if that makes sense) Shown below are the front and back of the fuse block.
fuse block traveler.JPG
back of fuseblock traveler.JPG

if any


Jeff has full wiring upgrade kits, not sure if he has just fuse blocks. Might want to check out, they have all kinds of nice DC stuff. Probably going to have to lengthen a bunch of the wires.


I don't know of any way to update your fuse style without replacing the fuse block. Also, your proposed location on the engine side of the firewall would be more susceptible to moisture incursion and resultant corrosion issues unless it was encased in a plastic housing of some sort as per more modern vehicles.


hey guys , thanks for the updates. it is appreciated. yea, I was thinking of a plastic housing to encase the block, but still need to figure out relocation. Oh well! any ideas on the glass fuse replacement thought? I read somewhere that someone had made fuse inserts that plugged in (just like glass fuses), but had prongs for ATO fuses. Just trying to figure things out. Thanks.


I have found out that that grey oxide coating that I see on your fuse block is a pretty dammed good insulator. Have actually measured across the metal ends of installed fuses with an ohm meter. and the fuses checked out good, then measured across the fuse block clips that the fuses are snapped into and got infinite ohms- open. The dual 4+ amp USB ports on the Powerwerx site should be added to every Scout, awesome product!
Superscout has options for blade fuses with their new wiring harnesses (made to original spec).

As far as moving it? without extending both sides of the fuse block, which includes the bulk head connectors on the engine bay side it is not a feasible project. Get someone shorter to change your fuses? lean across the rocker panel and under the dash?

I actually don't mind the glass tube fuses and you can buy a whole bussman kit that has multiples of every fuse you will need on amazon for cheap.

I keep a small o ring pick in my fuse kit in the glove box to pop the tubes out easily.

And I've only popped one fuse under there and it was my own fault when playing around with my power probe.

If your wiring is as good as you have suggested which the 77+ scouts were you're probably fine.