Quality Flaring Tool

Josh Shoemaker

Josh Shoemaker

Member
I am/will be in need of a flaring tool that will be able to perform double flares. I have several flaring tools for the job but in my line of work a single flare does the job. I have a double flarining tool that I purchased from napa but it does not work. I have tried to use it but I can not get it to work correct. I was wondering if there is a quality double flaring tool out there. Maybe someone uses one that performs really well.

Any suggestions.
 
I have this exact one and use it all of the time for .035 wall s/s + steel aluminum etc. Mush of the ss tubing availible can be very dificult to double flare so I say .035 wall as I have had an easy time with it. There are many similer ones availible but I have the lisle tool.

detail page for 31310 double flaring tool set - lisle corporation

Practice seems to help with making a good df. The tightness of the clamping is a good example. To tight and you crush the tube/ to loose and it will slip. I like to put the long end in a vice and use it. Never had any luck by hand only.

I use this simple one on fire, brake, fuel and oil lines all of the time but my buddies just swear at it. :incazzato::icon_rotate:
 
Could you check into what rigid offers? I've used their stuff for years in the trade and shop. They have excellent warranties and nowadays a 1-800 techline for help on any issues. You can't go wrong with lisle either like Robert has suggested. The only drawback I see with the eastwood besides price is it appears limited to bench work. Oh yeah, they fergot to put the nut on 1st :gringrin:
 
The rigid piece is the best I have used. I bought the 37 deg. Version for all my trans lines. The cone wobbles as it rotates and really puts a good burnished finish on the flare. Plus, the process places less stress on the clamping mechanism, so the tube doesn't try to slip out. However, it doesn't do double flares. So if you're doing brake lines, you'll need to explore other options.
Look into it though. A great piece of gear.
 
I have no problem doing singles and doubles (and fake bubbles!) using the shitball harbor freight tool! While stainless takes a bit for finesse and prep (square cuts/deburred), the hf tool works like a charm. But you must tighten the wingnuts with pliers to the point ya think they will break, especially on stainless.

Practice on mucho scrap and keep practicing on both 3/16", 1/4", and 5/16". Those are the three sizes used in automotive work on this IH iron and most cars/light trucks.

I used a full-on rigid pro tool last week that Todd has, no way I'd spend $350 for that one, but since he does medical-grade plumbing/pipefitting, that is a high production manual tool.
 
I agree, for the money, the harbor fright rig is tough to beat. But my rigid kit was $86.00 two years ago. Must be the economy version of the one you used. Makes any schmo look like a pro. But again, there's the one trick pony aspect of it...!
 
They're guud alright, I've had my 457(it looks like the 377 but no ratchet) for a little over 30 years and just can't seem to wear it out. There's a little story on when the salesman and I first saw how the cone rolled the flare. We thought it was crooked! Those cones won't do for double or bubble flares, the adapter won't work. A better one would be the 345 dl. As a dual task tool, you won't need another for a long time and the price aint' too bad. The thing I like about the lisle are the lugs to tighten it, no wings.
 
If you are having trouble double flareing and have the correct tool & using the correct procedure, then I would consider the material you are attempting to flare is not correct for the application.
What is the od and wall thickness?
Also, what material is the tubing?
 
chris pucci said:
I have the craftsman version of the same tool setup. The only 'trick' I have is to put the whole clamp portion in my vice and clamp the crap out of it. That seems to help get the first part of the flare done right...
Click to expand...

I too use a vice but only to hold it steady, not to clamp the tube.. I found that the most important thing is a perfectly square cut. The recommended stick out is a bit short. I add about .020- .030 more than the gauging step to 1/4 tubing. Add a touch of grease to the die surfaces to aid the forming action.

A simple tool really but works well for me.
 
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