• To ALL forum users - As of late I have been getting quite a few private messages with questions about build ups here on the forum, or tech questions about your personal project. While I appreciate the interest, sending me a private message about these topics distracts from, and undermines the purpose of having a forum here. During the day I wear many hats as a small business owner-operator and I work tirelessly to provide the absolute best service possible to you, our valued customer. When I created this forum I rounded up some of the best minds I knew so that any tech question you might have could be asked and answered by either myself or one of my highly experienced moderators, this way the next time this same question is asked the answer can be easily found and utilized by the next IH enthusiast having the same question. This allows me the freedom to run the day to day operations of the business and minimize the impact to shipments and shop activities that these distractions can cause. It is of the up most importance for me to complete the daily tasks in order to best take care of you our customer, all the while providing you a forum to get the level advice and input you have come to expect and deserve from the premier IH shop in the country.

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    Owner/Operator

Problem starting engine

RustyG

New member
1975 Scout II, 4 wheel drive, manual transmission, locking front axles, 345 Engine

Problem: the engine cranks over like there is no tomorrow but there is no electricity any where else. Battery is new, all connections in engine are secure, problem seems to be under the dashboard but nothing seems to be obviously wrong.
 
8make sure all the bulk head connectors are clean. All your fuses have power etc.

You need to check the coil for power when cranking. The coil has to be sending power to the distributer.

This is basic super basic diagnosis.
 

RustyG

New member
The problem isn't that engine is not starting. It's that there is no electricity anywhere. The only way to get anything to work is to make a direct connection from the battery.
 

Hondo

Member
Are you jumping the starter to get the engine to turn over? If you are using the key switch, there is power somewhere. There should be a fusible link, I believe coming up off of the starter's battery connection (don't have my wiring diagram here) that may have gone poof.
 

Scoutboy74

Moderator
What's your history with this Scout? Has it ever worked right for you? Is this an old or a new issue? Is the wiring harness original/stock, previous owner molested, or aftermarket? How about the gauges in the dash? Stock or aftermarket?
 

RustyG

New member
Hondo-Like I said in my original post the engine turns over great, however I had to put in a push button for the starter because the ignition switch would sometimes not work. Other than this problem the car has been very dependable
 

Hondo

Member
You have answered my question, and Scout Boys as well. Sounds like your wiring is mostly original and was working fairly well until recently. Your added ignition switch is basically jumping the starter.The ignition switch is down at the bottom of the steering column, not on the other side of the key switch as you might expect. The ignition switch does multiple things, so adding your push button switch gets the motor to turn over, but doesn't do anything about getting power to the ignition or anywhere else. As I mentioned in my previous post there is a fusible link that comes off the terminal of the starter solenoid that also goes to the battery. It is your main power feed.Wiring diagram says it should be a 10 gauge wire #14. This goes up and through the "engine" bulkhead connector, which is the rectangular connector with the two 10 gauge wires that go to the ampmeter (it will be one of the two 10 gauge wires). Disconnect the connector from the firewall and make sure you have battery voltage at the engine bay side of this connector. It gets much more complicated on the other side inside the cab, so first step is to make sure the fusible link hasn't opened up.
 
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