JMiller
Member
Hello all yee Scout gurus...this should be an easy one for you guys.
So I am in the process of trying to get the fuel guage working....dropped the tank(needed new o-ring anyways), everything looked good. So headed to the dash...pulled the fuel guage cluster and found major issues...fuel side of circuit board was good...but the other was not...
Farthest left terminal behind ameter guage has two big blue wires connected between the nuts. It all looks good.
Next terminal right(closer to the fuel side of the circuit board) has one big blue wire connected between the nuts. This bolt looking terminal is all black and green and looks to have gotten really hot.
Dont really know where to start...
The wiring harness exiting the firewall into the eng compartment left of the gb has two of the big blue wires in it. One is cut and capped. The other is coming from the starter straight to the back of the ammeter guage and is the one that looks bad and melted. The original blue wire that ran from the alternator to the ammeter guage is what I think is the cut wire...so now it runs direct to + terminal on bat. Have not traced down the third big blue wire.
The wire that was burnt is the constant hot coming from the starter...so when I touched it back to the terminal it was originally connected to I checked the terminal with 2 big blue wires and they became hot (electricity flowing) as well as a few of the prongs for the fuel guage connected to the board.
All I am trying to do is get the fuel guage working but none of this wiring sounds normal or correct to me. I do believe in trying to romove the switchboard for cleaning of the contact points with the nuts, I broke the bolt terminal that just had the one blue wire connected to it.
Is there a way to bypass the ammeter guage but still have a functional fuel gauge? I dont mind installing a voltmeter but it appears the fuel guage gets its "hot" from a wire going to the ammeter guage???
I am at the clueless point and dont want to just swap in another guage cluster and have it burn up to if the problem is not fixed first.
I appreciate any help and knocks on the head for incorrect terminology...will try to post pics tomorrow if anyone feels they will help...
Thanks,
jarrett
77' Scout II, 304, at
So I am in the process of trying to get the fuel guage working....dropped the tank(needed new o-ring anyways), everything looked good. So headed to the dash...pulled the fuel guage cluster and found major issues...fuel side of circuit board was good...but the other was not...
Farthest left terminal behind ameter guage has two big blue wires connected between the nuts. It all looks good.
Next terminal right(closer to the fuel side of the circuit board) has one big blue wire connected between the nuts. This bolt looking terminal is all black and green and looks to have gotten really hot.
Dont really know where to start...
The wiring harness exiting the firewall into the eng compartment left of the gb has two of the big blue wires in it. One is cut and capped. The other is coming from the starter straight to the back of the ammeter guage and is the one that looks bad and melted. The original blue wire that ran from the alternator to the ammeter guage is what I think is the cut wire...so now it runs direct to + terminal on bat. Have not traced down the third big blue wire.
The wire that was burnt is the constant hot coming from the starter...so when I touched it back to the terminal it was originally connected to I checked the terminal with 2 big blue wires and they became hot (electricity flowing) as well as a few of the prongs for the fuel guage connected to the board.
All I am trying to do is get the fuel guage working but none of this wiring sounds normal or correct to me. I do believe in trying to romove the switchboard for cleaning of the contact points with the nuts, I broke the bolt terminal that just had the one blue wire connected to it.
Is there a way to bypass the ammeter guage but still have a functional fuel gauge? I dont mind installing a voltmeter but it appears the fuel guage gets its "hot" from a wire going to the ammeter guage???
I am at the clueless point and dont want to just swap in another guage cluster and have it burn up to if the problem is not fixed first.
I appreciate any help and knocks on the head for incorrect terminology...will try to post pics tomorrow if anyone feels they will help...
Thanks,
jarrett
77' Scout II, 304, at
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