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need a lifter retaining clip

harrywt

Member
Hi guys,

I put a long post with pics in the " I-4 and sv engine non-oiling rocker assembly" thread last night. In it I mention that I had a retaining clip go sailing away. How do I get a new one?

Cheers,
harry
 

harrywt

Member
I can mail you 1 also...hope its a good lifter, or your wasting your time,,is the bottom flat ? No concave ness ? Jeff
Unfortunately, very concave, the odd thing is that all the passenger lifters were identically concave, pics are all of same lifter, also odd (to my inexperinced eye) is that the bottom of the lifter is completely uniform

Tapp_1.jpg

Tapp_2.jpg

Tapp_3.jpg
 

FDChappie

Active member
Dude, you really really really need a new cam and lifters. The metal grinding of the lifter and cam lobes will destroy the rest of your engine.
 

Robert Kenney

Super Moderator
That curve is indicative of a lot of miles. That is not a catostrophic failure event occuring but the normal wear process. Is it desired? No but if you maintain the lifter location integrity, they could run for another 100k miles.
The so called metal coming off of them, is not anymore than a normal running engine..

Now there is a flip side to this, if you end up needing new cam bearings don't use the old cam ans lifters. The work to replace the bearings is the biggest part of the project not the cost of a new bump stick kit...
If you do need cam bearings I would roll in new rod and main bearings. You May even install new rings and ridge ream the bores if needed.. If it doesnt use any oil just install new cam, rod, and main bearings along with a cam and lifters..
 

FDChappie

Active member
With that much of a cup the cam lobe is also very worn. So yes while the engine May run it probably won't run very well due to reduced lift and will likely make a lot of rattle in the valve train.
 

Robert Kenney

Super Moderator
Well chap, your statement about metal making was where I was pointing my disagreement. It was not a correct statment.
The op was happy with how it ran previously. If the cam bearings are ok leave the cam asis.
 

harrywt

Member
well chap, your statement about metal making was where I was pointing my disagreement. It was not a correct statment.
The op was happy with how it ran previously. If the cam bearings are ok leave the cam asis.
Right, metal is wearing off all of the time, part of why you change the oil and have a filter.

So it seems that I will be removing the crank? (see post in " default I-4 and sv engine non-oiling rocker assembly ") or I might as well replace all of the bearings while I've got the engine all apart?

Btw, engine doesn't go thru oil at all, part of why I am so surprised to see the rocker assy so cruddy and the lifters so worn, engine had felt so tight, but I think I must be hitting the steeper part of the downhill slide....
 

FDChappie

Active member
Wow quite a progression on this post. Went from needing a retaining clip to almost a complete bottom end rebuild.

Is it just an optical illusion or are those lifters concaved about .125" in the middle? If all the lifters and cam lobes are like that it adds up to a lot of metal.

The reason the engine needs to be pulled is that there is a cam cover behind the flywheel that needs to be removed to get the back cam bearing out.
 

harrywt

Member
wow quite a progression on this post. Went from needing a retaining clip to almost a complete bottom end rebuild.

Is it just an optical illusion or are those lifters concaved about .125" in the middle? If all the lifters and cam lobes are like that it adds up to a lot of metal.

The reason the engine needs to be pulled is that there is a cam cover behind the flywheel that needs to be removed to get the back cam bearing out.
Yes, it's paralleling another set of posts in " default I-4 and sv engine non-oiling rocker assembly " I put out a request here for a clip before I realized how deep the water was becoming...
 

Robert Kenney

Super Moderator
So it seems that I will be removing the crank? (see post in " default I-4 and sv engine non-oiling rocker assembly ") or I might as well replace all of the bearings while I've got the engine all apart?
You can easily replace the bearings with the crank installed. Once you loosen the main caps, the crank will drop a few thousenths. You roll out the old and roll in the new. A bit of finess is needed but not a tough job.

All of the back and fourth aside. Pull the pan and see what the old lady says.
 
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