Last chance to get my 304 running before I swap in a Powerstroke Diesel

NorCalDiesel

New member
Just kidding about the swap, although it would be nice.. And I won't lie I have thought about it.. But I will settle on the 304.

Anyhow, I have been struggling with getting this carb on my 304 set up correctly. Here is some history. I got this '70 s800a in March '10 and put it back on the road after sitting for 2 years. Before it was parked 2 years back it had about $1800.00 in work done, mostly under the hood and fuel system.

When I got it I changed all fluids, flushed the tanks and replaced the points (.019), plugs, rotor, cap, wires and cleaned it up. It started and I set the timing at about 5*btdc, but it ran poorly. I moved the timing around a bit but settled on 5-6* btdc. At that point I rebuilt the carb. I got it running and set the idle and it ran pretty good. Not great, but a lot better. I had a bit more to do to get her roadworthy so I focused my attention elsewhere.

I have accomplished a lot since then, rebuilt suspension, new bushings, body mounts... List goes on. But I now have a progressively sickening engine.

Over the last 4 - 6 weeks I can't seem to get the engine to stay in tune. Initially I began to experience crossfire, or what I thought might be crossfire. In retrospect it May have been backfiring both through the exhaust and carb. I found a couple posts discussing wire position and I went in and rearranged my plug wires and it seemed to remedy the problem. A couple weeks later same thing. Backfiring through both the carb and exhaust.

I went back and checked points gap and timing and both were unchanged and good, points gap .019 and timing 6*btdc. I moved the timing back a couple degrees to about 9* and the backfiring is gone. I am thinking great finally get her running good.

But a couple days ago after getting off the freeway I could not get the idle down. Pulling to a stop on the exit ramp the rpm's stayed around 1500 and would not come down. So I pulled off the road and adjusted the idle down manually. I know that is not right, I just wanted to get home. Now I have gone through both the timing and carb settings but can't get the idle to stay put. If you just start the engine , hot warm or cold it will idle around 700 rpm. Run through the gears and come to a stop the rpm will be around 1100 and will stay there.

Right now I just want to get the idle to stay and go from there. I can't even get a good look at the timing as it is moving about 5* back and forth as the idle moves around.

The engine is a 304 original to this s800. Holley points dist and Holley 2300 2bbl (360771-c92 / list 4079-1). The carb is well hammered from the po. The acc pump arm has been bent and straightened a couple times as has the throttle linkage. The carb has soot from backfiring.

I am looking for pointers as to where some of you May start looking. I know it is either the dist or carb, but I would rather not replace both. I am not in love with points ignitions, so any recommendations for other better dists/ignition options are appreciated. I would really like to get better than 12 -13 mpg.
 
I am looking for pointers as to where some of you May start looking.
My first suggestion would be to look at the carb - do you have any kind of linkages attached to the throttle arm other than the pedal connection? Have you verified that it can travel all the way to wide open throttle (wot) without any kind of interference? I don't mean to patronize you but one can only hope it's something so simple. Perhaps the bending of components has resulted in something similar. And since you said it "starts cold" at 700 rpm, I am guessing you do not have a proper choke/high idle setup for starting. It is a good idea to utilize a functioning choke if only for the high idle cam, wether manual or "auto." while this does not sound like the root cause of your issue, it is a possible source of issue. If you're "tuning" carb settings on an engine that hasn't been operated to the point that the metal and oil has reached normal operating temperature, you are tuning to cylinder conditions that aren't... Well, normal! Again, please don't take offense if this is unnecessary info... Just trying to cover my bases.

Now, you mention wandering timing. It's entirely possible that some internal components of your distributor are causing this issue, which would in turn affect idle speed and general tune. Just another point to consider checking while diagnosing your issue, and if you verify that timing is consistently "off" when the idle is higher, it might be time to break into and refresh your distributor. And if you do verify that the distributor is an issue, get it fully squared away and done before trying to "tune it out" with the carburetor - trust me, I've tried that and it doesn't work in that order!
I am not in love with points ignitions, so any recommendations for other better dists/ignition options are appreciated.
Depending on your specific distributor, it May be an excellent unit/"core" that's just out of shape. Converting to an electronic trigger such as the pertronix ignitor greatly improved my idle quality and overall vehicle performance... From the standpoint of an amateur mechanic. It is not cheap, but it is also not a "maintenance item" like a set of breaker points. Obviously, this won't do anything to fix a mechanical issue with the advance components, but it is something to consider if you do end up dropping time or money into the distributor.

I would really like to get better than 12 -13 mpg.
Not trying to be mean here but... While upgrading ignition components, getting the timing dialed in, and ensuring your carburetor is jetted correctly can give you a bit "more" out of your fuel, the high-mpg v8 ihc is mostly a pipe dream. You are better off looking into a small diesel engine swap if you actually have a need for 20mpg or better - not even sure you could get an IH v8 anywhere near that figure. I am sure running ragged-edge lean, with overdrive and appropriate axle gearing, combined with extreme weight loss Could give you an appreciable increase in "economy," but that word hardly belongs on these forums! :d
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the reply. I do think my carb needs rebuilt and set up correctly, but I can't get to that point until I get the distributor figured out. I am not swapping anything, I was just thinking out loud. I realistically think I can get 12-13 if it is tuned right. I don't expect more, but it would be nice.

I need to re-seal the engine at the least so I was thinking that I would get a compression reading while the engine is in the truck and if they came out good I would only rebuild the top of the engine, a valve job and possibly a cam and then either rebuild the distributor and carb or get new parts. I read good reviews on the dui distributor.. That with a new carb both properly set up should do it.

If the compression readings are bad then the whole shebang will get rebuilt. I really want to get everything running good and forget about it while I drive it. I am thinking that given the age of the engine and associated parts I will be nickled and dimed every month.

To answer your questions.. I do have a manual throttle and manual choke. When cold with the choke out the engine will idle high until the choke is pushed in and the engine warms. Then it usually runs good. When warm or hot as if your stopping to get gas. The engine will start right up and idle normally. Then after driving through the gears and coming to a stop it will not idle lower then 1100 rpm, usually around 1200 and it kind of oscillates up and down about 200 - 300 rpm. This high idle is new. Overall though I am getting backfires both out of the exhaust and carb, this is what I am really trying to fix. Btw, I disconnected the manual throttle yesterday to keep it out of the equation.

I am going to focus on the distributor first. I am at least going to upgrade the Holley I have if I can with a pertronix ignitor or get a new distributor. The dui is nice, but I don't want a distributor to be the most expensive single item on the truck.... We'll see where it goes form there.

Thanks again.
 
So your rig has an oem delco cast iron distributor??? No way you can improve on that sparker if it's set up correctly. A Holley distributor doesn't hold a candle to that delco!

All our distributor identification info is here:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/ignition-tech/642-ihc-vehicle-distributor-identification.html

And our ignition performance upgrade information is here (and this thread is continuously updated:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/ignition-tech/644-ignition-system-performance-upgrades.html

I'd look real closely at your vacuum can on the distributor, most likely it's non-func and is actually serving as a vacuum leak for your induction system.

Second thing...I'd suspect that the mechanical advance system is sticking based upon your description. Or...it's flat worn out! Again, that is all part of a distributor rebuild, we do 'em around here weekly, got fresh delco sv and fourbanger distributors here now with or without pertronix ready to ship. Or we can rebuild your core.

The carb and the ignition should be serviced and upgraded simultaneously, this is not a one or the other kind of deal. Simply putting all components back in original operating condition is a huge improvement on this junk iron.

And as you have already mentioned, if the motor is generally tired, all the tuning in the world is not gonna bring it to life.

My suggestion is to look at your future ignition and carburetion plan. And then decide on the "system" you want to use based upon budget. If you chose the right components up front, this can certainly be a building block process and does not have to be done all at once. That makes this kind of special interest stuff very affordable without a huge upfront outlay that you will later determine was not the best route to take!

And if you have a delco distributor right now, that is the best unit to build upon that I could advise based upon bang for the buck!
 
Well, the idea is to get it back running as reliably as possible. I would go as far as a total reasonable rebuild. The only thing I would improve is the ignition and carb, but I like the little 304. I am going to give Jeff a call in the morning and see what distributor I can put together, I have been looking for a reason to just deal with it and now seems to be the best time. I am ready to park it now that I have my other truck back so I can park this inside and start pulling it apart.

Thanks for the input, this is a great board.
 
I see now I did not read your original post closely enough, you do have a Holley distributor. But we need to verify that it is a "straight point" version or a "curved point" version. That needs to be done visually, not by part number as many of the items have been hacked together over the years. I have straight point holleys here that I've converted to curved point base plates so that the more common "curved" points or the more common pertronix conversion May be installed. Most straight point Holley distributors I deal with have a broken sliding advance plate that is nla. And the two different type units require two different vacuum advance cans, we have reconditioned cans on the shelf also, new ones are not available from any source.

Likewise, we can recondition any Holley distributor also. However, due to the location of the mechanical advance system, they must be completely disassembled to clean/service/repair. The biggest issue with those units is extremely excessive endplay.

In my personal opinion, the most effective (both from a performance standpoint and a cost standpoint) Holley-based ignition system you can use on an IH application would be:

1) reconditioned Holley distributor running vacuum advance and a pertronix conversion.

2) mallory (or msd) "6"-series cd box.

3) msd blaster ss coil.

4) any brand high quality, helical-wound plug cables (8mm jacket) with 90* female distributor cap terminations.

5) conventional spark plugs (autolite 85 or equivalent) gapped at 0.045" max.

6) modified duraspark distributor cap and adapter mounted to the Holley distributor.

7) all ignition wiring harness terminations done with appropriate packard weather pack connectors.

We'll soon have available these same systems using a magnetic trigger conversion instead of a pertronix if desired, that will allow direct connection to the cd box which is a even more desirable setup.
 
Michael, great information. I talked to Jeff today. I am going to go the Holley/pertronix route. I am going to swap my core and some cash for the rebuilt / converted Holley pertronix. I will be sure to bring up your other recommendations. I can't wait to get it in and timed. This old 800 has been my dd for the last couple weeks as I sort out my truck.

Also, the carb I have is what appears to be the original 2300. I rebuilt it to get it running back in March using an off the shelf gp sorenson kit. It was the right kit for the carb number. Since then I have plenty of soot from backfiring through the carb. I noticed the baseplate gasket is getting blown apart. So I am going to rebuild the carb again just to make sure it is internally sealed and not damaged. Here is the carb number (360771-c92 / list 4079-1), would you recommend a good kit. Otherwise I am thinking of getting a new 2300.

Thanks again for your help.
 
michael, great information. I talked to Jeff today. I am going to go the Holley/pertronix route. I am going to swap my core and some cash for the rebuilt / converted Holley pertronix. I will be sure to bring up your other recommendations. I can't wait to get it in and timed. This old 800 has been my dd for the last couple weeks as I sort out my truck.

Also, the carb I have is what appears to be the original 2300. I rebuilt it to get it running back in March using an off the shelf gp sorenson kit. It was the right kit for the carb number. Since then I have plenty of soot from backfiring through the carb. I noticed the baseplate gasket is getting blown apart. So I am going to rebuild the carb again just to make sure it is internally sealed and not damaged. Here is the carb number (360771-c92 / list 4079-1), would you recommend a good kit. Otherwise I am thinking of getting a new 2300.

Thanks again for your help.

We can take care of ya in the ignition department in most any manner you chose based on budget. That is why folks need to think this stuff through for the long term and look at it as a system approach that can be built on for the future. We are also working on a version of the above system that can interface with the popular GM-based efi conversion, so that if that is contemplated down the line, all of the above (with the exception of the pertronix trigger) will still work with an additional fairly simple change to the distributor. Look at it as a "building block" system.

For nearly all Holley 2300 carbs I use a generic holly kit, p/n hly-37-1543. It comes with an assortment of various throttle body gaskets, pick the one that is correct for your individual list number. That kit also services the popular list 7448 and list 4412 performance upgrade carbs we deal with around here. You should also use a hly-116-4 side hung brass float if your carb does not already have a brass float.

Ihon has on the shelf the correct "heat dam" base gaskets that replicate the oem part that was oem on these engines, I consider that part to be imperative.
 
we can take care of ya in the ignition department in most any manner you chose based on budget.

I picked up a rebuilt Holley and pertronix ignitor/coil today and put it in this eve. It definitely runs much better. I am going to pick up 8mm wires to go with the new rotor and cap. It runs a lot better but still backfires, so we are dealing with at least two separate issues one of which was the ignition. I was able to get it started right off and set the idle by ear and got it timed around -7 right now, if I go any higher say around -5 it will backfire worse. At -7 it runs well until the carb is rebuilt. The timing doesn't wander at all, stays right at -7. So next is the carb. I have to go to tognottis in sacramento tomorrow for a grant steering wheel adapter so I will see if they have that Holley kit. On my way back from Grass Valley the grant steering adapter decided to strip out in Auburn. Lucky I was in the gas station pulling up to the pump. Had to mcgyver it to get it home.

ihon has on the shelf the correct "heat dam" base gaskets that replicate the oem part that was oem on these engines, I consider that part to be imperative.

I do have the brass float and can pick up a new heat shield when I drop off the distributor core. If I can get the right Holley kit and it goes back in and works then great. If not I will send it your way and call Jeff.

While we are on the subject of fuel delivery who rebuilds the mechanical fuel / vacuum assist pumps? I have my original, but it is out because the diaphragms bad and leaked oil. Right now I have a reliable but loud electric pump and no wipers. Haha, I am going to need the wipers tomorrow. A half cab roof seal kit would also be nice.

Thanks for all the help.
 
I picked up a rebuilt Holley and pertronix ignitor/coil today and put it in this eve. It definitely runs much better. I am going to pick up 8mm wires to go with the new rotor and cap. It runs a lot better but still backfires, so we are dealing with at least two separate issues one of which was the ignition. I was able to get it started right off and set the idle by ear and got it timed around -7 right now, if I go any higher say around -5 it will backfire worse. At -7 it runs well until the carb is rebuilt. The timing doesn't wander at all, stays right at -7. So next is the carb. I have to go to tognottis in sacramento tomorrow for a grant steering wheel adapter so I will see if they have that Holley kit. On my way back from Grass Valley the grant steering adapter decided to strip out in Auburn. Lucky I was in the gas station pulling up to the pump. Had to mcgyver it to get it home.



I do have the brass float and can pick up a new heat shield when I drop off the distributor core. If I can get the right Holley kit and it goes back in and works then great. If not I will send it your way and call Jeff.

While we are on the subject of fuel delivery who rebuilds the mechanical fuel / vacuum assist pumps? I have my original, but it is out because the diaphragms bad and leaked oil. Right now I have a reliable but loud electric pump and no wipers. Haha, I am going to need the wipers tomorrow. A half cab roof seal kit would also be nice.

Thanks for all the help.

You are on your way to licking all the drivability issues!

We just discussed this resource a few days back in another thread, they are my go-to regarding fuel pump rebuild components now:

fuel pump rebuilding kits - then and now automotive

Lou (gunline) and I had a good discussion about tognotti's last month over the dinner table at his house in sacto! We both reminisced over what they "used to be"!

That o'rielly (former shucks or kragen?) point there in Auburn on the way back down the hill from Grass Valley on 49 has a tremendous selection of all Holley and edelbrock tuning parts and kits hanging on the wall. One of their points up here in oregon city does also, almost like an old time speed shop like tognotti used to be! I picked up a major restock of Holley stuff there when I was down last month, including some of the aforementioned carb kits!
 
you are on your way to licking all the drivability issues!

We just discussed this resource a few days back in another thread, they are my go-to regarding fuel pump rebuild components now:

fuel pump rebuilding kits - then and now automotive

Thanks, I am going to look into rebuilding the original one I have. They are beautiful looking pumps with the glass bowl and all.

lou (gunline) and I had a good discussion about tognotti's last month over the dinner table at his house in sacto! We both reminisced over what they "used to be"!

I refrained from using the word speed shop and tognottis in the same sentence. But they have a huge selection of grant stuff and without a steering wheel it just aint worth it. :icon_wink:

I did not notice the selection of anything but steering wheel adapters at o'riellys (kragan) at the time I was in there, but that is because I was pissed that my trusty Scout left me miles away. But I will be back. I am getting all the gaskets to reseal the motor when I go back out to ihon and I will drop the old distributor off.

Anyhow, I will let you know how the carb comes out.
 
Ok, I finally got around to rebuilding the 2300 using the Holley kit p/n michael mayben supplied. Got her completely disassembled, cleaned up and rebuilt in a couple hours. Made sure to adjust everything as it went back together. Runs way way better than before. No raw fuel smell and no vac leaks. Idles around 650 and holds. Still backfires once in a while when cold, but once at running temps it runs fine

between the new dist and rebuilt carb, shes a new gal. I don't know whats in that rebuild kit, but the speedo does not Bob all over the dial any longer. No kidding..

I am attributing everything to the rebuilt carb..

At this point I will need to reseal the engine since most of the gaskets are old and dry rotted. I am going to get a compression reading and have a look inside the pan for bearing material. Then decision time. Hopefully I can get by with a valve job and keep the short block intact.

Michael, thanks for all the help and information. One of the main reasons I am keeping this 800 is the proximity of ihon and these forums. It is great to have all the knowledge and parts in your backyard. It makes working on these trucks a lot of fun.

Have a great holiday season,
pat
 
A fresh carburetor is a life-changing experience huh??

Another tip...have you serviced the pcv system yet? That one "might" have the pcv valve that can be disassembled and cleaned.

Some of your oil leaks May be due to a pcv system that is less than optimal, that in turn allows the engine to "pressurize" instead of vent properly through the pcv and into the intake manifold plenum.

After the pcv is serviced, then verify the fuel level in the float bowl with the engine running at idle. Last step is to then re-tweek the idle mixtures to compensate for a pcv that is working correctly.
 
Back
Top