International 258 fit in an 80???

G

Gerk

New member
My 152 runs like shit for some reason
will a 258 fit?
What needs to be done?

I'd rather just keep the 152 but nobody can figure out what is wrong with it.
 
gerk said:
my 152 runs like shit for some reason
will a 258 fit?
What needs to be done?

I'd rather just keep the 152 but nobody can figure out what is wrong with it.
Click to expand...

The short answer is no. The 258 is not an International engine, but an amc engine that International used. The bellhousing is different, the mounts are different and the frames is different.

Can it be done? Yes, but it would be a hell of a lot easier to fix the 152 or replace the 152. Engine are simple machines, they all function on the same basic principle. There is no "magic" when it comes to them so I find it hard to believe you've run out of options for fixing the 152.
 
I have tried.
Not a lot of responses. Which is ok
think maybe, hopefully, figured it out.

The 152 starts up just fine and runs fine untill I put it under load. It bogs down and has 0 power.
We are now thinking that the mechanical fuel pump does not have enough pressure and not getting enough fuel. When I pump the pedal, it starts to stall. Thinking of putting in an electric fuel pump.
Ive done everything else, timed, new plugs, new points, new coil, good compression, good oil pressure.
What do you think?

Thanks
 
Just jumpin in here, I'm reminded of an old dodge truck I had. Ran like a top. But it finely got to the point I couldn't get it out of my long inclined driveway. I would let it roll back down the hill where it was flat so I could find the problem , but every thing appeared fine. Drove me nuts. Long story short , I had a small hole in the fuel line, it didn't leak fuel . But being on the vacuum side of the fuel pump it would suck air, and run out of fuel under a load. Your problem might be that simple
good luck
 
I will definately look into that.
Won't the electic fuel pump fix that?

The fuel lines were replaced pretty recently before I bought the Scout.
Maybe they were done crappy

thanks
 
I have an electric pump on mine, but it still has to suck the fuel from the tank to the pump. That side is vacuum, after the pump it's under pressure, that side is easy to find a leak because it squirts. It's easier for the pump to suck air than liquid , which is why it normally appears under heavy demand
 
Excellent
understood
now, how would I know where the leak was if it does not drip and its sucking air?
 
I don't know, that's the hard part. You say it has new fuel lines, if the fitting at the tank wasn't tight enough maybe. It's just a theory . I'm inclined to try and prove things. I have a portable fuel tank for my boat , I might run a line straight to the fuel pump and see if it's worth spending time looking. If that isn't it at least you would know the problem is under the hood
 
I always like to start the debug process with a solid theory like you have regarding pump fuel delivery and they validate it with test data. Plumb in a fuel pressure gauge. Just feel that throwing parts at a problem is more or less like roulette. How often will it hit? The mechanical pump is more than adequate. An electric pump needs a control relay/circuit that monitors oil pressure so if you kill the engine for any reason the pump will stop thus preventing a major fire potential.

If I recall correctly an inline gauge and t fitting kit is $15-20. Install it just before the carb. You should have a flare inlet port on that Holley. You will need a barb adapter for the carb so you can slip on a hose.

You'll want 3-5 psi. 5 would be a max as more can overwhelm the float/inlet valve and cause flooding.

One example actron/2 1/2 in. White face display 0-30 in. Vacuum and 0-15 psi pressure tester kit (cp7802) | fuel pressure tester | autozone.com
 
Last edited:
Also sounds like a fuel delivery problem to me. My 64 was having issues also, replaced all the fuel lines, tank to carb. That curd most of the ills, but I also found that I had a big flat spot off idle, that was an accelerator pump linkage adjustment.......bend, drive, bend , drive, till it drove decently. You May have a rust through on the steel line on the tank pick up, it would not show a leak if it was above the fuel level.
 
Fuel lines are all new
I have a dual tank setup. Maybe I'll fill up the other tank and see if its the same. Maybe some old junk from one of the tanks is stuck in the lines. I don't know.
I just tightened all of the fittings and tightened the hose clamps. I started her up, which she always starts up very easily in the beginning, pumped the pedal for a bit and no starving for fuel. As usual, I put it in gear started letting out the clutch and as soon as the clutch is fully released, the damn thing bogged again. Parked it, pumped the pedal like before and now its starving and tries to stall.
Theres a little bit of blue/white smoke from exhaust.
 
To eliminate a problem with the lines I would go straight into a clean can of fuel right at the pump.

Your problem could be a line problem but probly not my first thing to look at. But definelty a posibilty since since they were just messed with.

First I would make sure your carb actually is starving for fuel. I would do what you do to make it die out. Then pull the cover for the bowl and see if it is empty. Inspect the needle valve. Then check set the float level.

Not sure if this will work on your carb, maybe someone will chime in, if you were to take off the diaphram for the economizer can the fuel level be seen??
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top