• To ALL forum users - As of late I have been getting quite a few private messages with questions about build ups here on the forum, or tech questions about your personal project. While I appreciate the interest, sending me a private message about these topics distracts from, and undermines the purpose of having a forum here. During the day I wear many hats as a small business owner-operator and I work tirelessly to provide the absolute best service possible to you, our valued customer. When I created this forum I rounded up some of the best minds I knew so that any tech question you might have could be asked and answered by either myself or one of my highly experienced moderators, this way the next time this same question is asked the answer can be easily found and utilized by the next IH enthusiast having the same question. This allows me the freedom to run the day to day operations of the business and minimize the impact to shipments and shop activities that these distractions can cause. It is of the up most importance for me to complete the daily tasks in order to best take care of you our customer, all the while providing you a forum to get the level advice and input you have come to expect and deserve from the premier IH shop in the country.

    So with that I ask that anyone with a question about one of our build ups or a general tech question to please use the forum as it was intended. I am absolutely available by telephone to answer your questions as well but at times may direct you back to our website to better field your question or questions. Most other private messages I will be glad to answer for you.

    Thank you for your understanding.

    Jeff Ismail
    Owner/Operator

Holley Sniper EFI

dntbuck

New member
I am replacing the Carb on my 345 with a Sniper EFI. Since I will have a Electric Fuel Pump and the EFI, do I need the Vapor Storage Canister and/or the Liquid/Vapor Separator? Thinking I don't and can go directly from pump to EFI. Thanks for any help/input.
 

ihpartsjeff

Administrator & Owner
Staff member
We generally keep these emission devices intact when performing fuel injection swaps as they help the tank breathe yet not put fumes into the air.
 

dmf6978

Member
I just posted about EFI for my 67 1200B Truck. I was also looking at the Holly Sniper kit. I really like the idea of the LCD monitor and it self learns the system. However with this kit if i wanted to time idle then my distributor would have to be upgraded, but I am not too sure where to get this from or who would make it. I called Holly and they said they dont have anything since International made their own proprietary back in the day. I know that Hamilton EFI is out there which has the entire kit, but I also like the idea of the holly carb fitting 1:1. Still torn which system to use. Then there is fitech.
 

dntbuck

New member
dmf7968 - I upgraded to the DUI Distributor. Was told, found out that they will work very good together. And have been told personally by several people I know that I will not regret going to both. We'll see once the engine comes back from rebuild and I get it running again.
 

Bill USN-1

F.I. Moderator
The DUI distr "can" be converted to work with timing control.
I also convert the factory distr to work with the aftermarket systems.
My is a direct fit since it is your distr converted to work.
It is also about 1/2 the price of the DUI.
You just drop mine in and follow the system instructions for timing control.
It is just the distributor.
if your system calls for other parts like a coil driver, those will still be needed.

So the bottom line is if you want a system that will do everything mine does and have all the parts that mine includes, your probably going to end up paying more than if you just bought my kit.
But you do have options.

I have built distributors for Holley, FiTech, MSD....etc
 

New_SR2

New member
How are people handling the return with dual fuel tanks? I just found a marked down 2300 Sniper kit and I am hoping to try it out as a stop bridge until going with Hamilton FI.

I think I have all of it figured out with the exception of how to run the return. Already have an Electric Fuel Pump installed. Has the dual poly tanks as replacements, so wondering if that will make things more difficult for the return also.
 

ihpartsjeff

Administrator & Owner
Staff member
How are people handling the return with dual fuel tanks? I just found a marked down 2300 Sniper kit and I am hoping to try it out as a stop bridge until going with Hamilton FI.

I think I have all of it figured out with the exception of how to run the return. Already have an Electric Fuel Pump installed. Has the dual poly tanks as replacements, so wondering if that will make things more difficult for the return also.
You will need a valve and switch set up specifically for this. We sell one on our online store - https://www.ihpartsamerica.com/store/FI-TNK-SWTCHVLVE-SET.html
 

New_SR2

New member
You will need a valve and switch set up specifically for this. We sell one on our online store - https://www.ihpartsamerica.com/store/FI-TNK-SWTCHVLVE-SET.html
Hi jeff,

Thanks for the quick reply. I found this thread from binderplanet (hopefully it is OK to link it here) discussing dual tanks with FI setup. Unfortunately it looks like none of the images discussed are showing up for me (could be work internet, or possibly they are just too old).

http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/index.php?threads/fuel-injection-with-dual-tanks.48585/

So if I run the valve you linked, I would put that before the full pump, (closer to the tanks)? And that would need to be used in conjunction with the manual switch located on the drivers floor?
 

dmf6978

Member
Hi Jeff. I am sort of in the same boat SR2 is. I have dual tanks in my truck and going with the Holly EFI setup. I will work on the timing later and have bill probably convert my distributor over to electronic. My question to you is why do I need your dual tank switch over compared to what I have now? Is it because my switch cant handle the pressure from the new system? I have a nice original switch in the truck now, and no offense but i don't like the new toggle switch that comes in your kit, so if there was a way to wire my switch to your hardware im fine with that.
 

New_SR2

New member
Hi Jeff. I am sort of in the same boat SR2 is. I have dual tanks in my truck and going with the Holly EFI setup. I will work on the timing later and have bill probably convert my distributor over to electronic. My question to you is why do I need your dual tank switch over compared to what I have now? Is it because my switch cant handle the pressure from the new system? I have a nice original switch in the truck now, and no offense but i don't like the new toggle switch that comes in your kit, so if there was a way to wire my switch to your hardware im fine with that.
Same question here, and on my end I don't mind spending the money and supporting Jeff, just want to make sure I understand how the system works before jumping in. What prevents us from running a return line to just one of the tanks? And leaving the mechanical valve installed as is?
 

ihpartsjeff

Administrator & Owner
Staff member
The electric switch for fuel injection has both the fuel feed and return lines running thru it. So if you switch to the left tank, the feed for the return line will also go the the left tank. Hope that makes better sense as why you need a valve like this. If you are hell bent on having an old school manual valve like what is factory on a Scout 800, plan on installing a second valve so the return lines can be switched as well. Otherwise you risk filling up a tank and over filling it if you are running on the opposite fuel tank.
 

New_SR2

New member
The electric switch for fuel injection has both the fuel feed and return lines running thru it. So if you switch to the left tank, the feed for the return line will also go the the left tank. Hope that makes better sense as why you need a valve like this. If you are hell bent on having an old school manual valve like what is factory on a Scout 800, plan on installing a second valve so the return lines can be switched as well. Otherwise you risk filling up a tank and over filling it if you are running on the opposite fuel tank.

I see. So the risk is really just fear of overfilling on a single tank by running the return to a tank you are not pulling gas from?

I wonder if there is a way to T it into the fuel line before the pump, but after the manual valve? Or does it need to run into a tank and not back into the fuel line?

So the electrical switching valve you linked would replace the mechanical valve that is from stock?
 

ihpartsjeff

Administrator & Owner
Staff member
I see. So the risk is really just fear of overfilling on a single tank by running the return to a tank you are not pulling gas from?
Yes. You have to have the return line going to the same tank that is being drawn from for the feed.


I wonder if there is a way to T it into the fuel line before the pump, but after the manual valve? Or does it need to run into a tank and not back into the fuel line?
The return line cannot have any back pressure so it always ends up being dumped back into the tank.

So the electrical switching valve you linked would replace the mechanical valve that is from stock?
Yes
 

Scooter

Active member
I have installed a couple of those valves, that Jeff linked to. It eliminates the manual valve completely, and puts an electric switch up on the dash. Once installed, the single fuel gauge is wired into the new valve, and will work for both tanks. Never had an issue with overfilling either tank. The valve isolates each tank while in use. The instruction sheet that came with that electric valve was fairly thorough.
 

dmf6978

Member
So I finally upgradeed with the EFI sniper kit. Found a local speed shop. Spencer Speed Shop shout out. The guys did an amazing job. Runs like a brand new truck, although we did have some hiccups along the way. Turns out the internal pressure something on the Holley was total crap so they had to run an external one. Very happy to have this new system, but its still learning and I will have to drive it a lot more.
 

Attachments

GoBison

New member
Regarding the Sniper on the 345, did you mount the Sniper directly on top using ONLY the Holley supplied thin gasket? Or did you use the 1/4” thick Holley Base Mounting Gasket? The reason I ask is I fear the thin gasket may vibrate and break off in the middle and fall in so wondering if the Sniper should be mounted on the original 1/4” base? I am in the planning stages right now.
 

Attachments

dmf6978

Member
I m going to try and figure out how i can take photos under the truck without putting it on an actual lift. I got under there last weekend to review some trans linkage issue, and I did notice I have dual everything since i have both tanks operational. They are hidden inside the frame nicely tucked away. I have the switch inside the truck to go from left to right side tank. Somewhere along the lines he plumbed them in together. I should have had the guy who installed it take photos for me while he had it up on his lift in the shop. My camera isn't wide angle enough to see everything.
 

dmf6978

Member
Well the weather was so nice today and the truck was telling me go out go out. Same shit keeps happening with the Sniper EFI. I know I am taking it my guy but hes backed up right now so its going to be another week. See if i could figure it out myself and im stumped. Makes no sense. Pull out of the driveway. Soon as I dump it into reverse the truck stalls. Start it up again. same thing pull it out and drive then stalls. Finally makes it around the blocks for a while. I then come down a small hill and a stop sign. Stalls when i come to a stop. The holley tech guy told me something about too much torque whatever that means. I took some photos of the system. Maybe another fellow sniper guy out there knows what im talking about. Too late but you guys can yell at me later to go with the hamilton system. I am an axious person who hates waiting for things to be right. And its even worse not being able to fix it myself.
 
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