I have a '77 304 w/a 727. The 304 has a mild schneider cam (256-2h grind), bored 0.060" and the block & heads where shaved .100" w/some flat-top hyper-eutecktic(?) pistons, air injection ports plugged & ground and a set of stan's tri-y headers w/some mock-up cherry bombs just to get it running. I am using a new model 2300 (4412c) carb I bought in 2003 on a stock manifold and I put an electric choke kit on it. I am also using a dui unit that fits extremely tight although Jeff & Darren say it should fit pretty good
. Performance dist. Said I could remove 1 of the 4 hold down bars to get it to fit better so I ground the thermostat housing & water neck(?) and dremmeled the cap to give me maybe 30 degrees of rotation. Anyways, I've got it to the point where is starts almost immediately and idles around 500-600. It will run on it's own for anywhere between 15-50 seconds then just dies w/no sputtering. The engine runs smooth w/no vibration and all 8 header tubes are hot. If I gently step on the accelerator peddle, the motor will run up to 800-900 then die immediately. When it does, I immediately open the float bowl site screw and fuel gently trickles out as it is right at the base of the threads. I cleaned the 4 air meter thingys on the carb throat that look like little jets w/my paint gun cleaning brushes & laquer thinner.
I am running a kwik wire 14 circuit harness that has a 14 gauge wire feeding the "bat" terminal on the distributor. Performance dist. Says that is too small and I should be using at least a 12 if not 10 gauge. Because I can't re-wire the harness I am running a 10 gauge wire to the starter solenoid.
I tried the "r" stud and it won't catch now. I put the original 14 gauge back on and it starts. I then put the 10 gauge directly to the battery and it will start but the same thing happens, 800 rpm and dead.
I know you probably have to go home and shave again after reading this novel but what do you think?
Mark from boston
. Performance dist. Said I could remove 1 of the 4 hold down bars to get it to fit better so I ground the thermostat housing & water neck(?) and dremmeled the cap to give me maybe 30 degrees of rotation. Anyways, I've got it to the point where is starts almost immediately and idles around 500-600. It will run on it's own for anywhere between 15-50 seconds then just dies w/no sputtering. The engine runs smooth w/no vibration and all 8 header tubes are hot. If I gently step on the accelerator peddle, the motor will run up to 800-900 then die immediately. When it does, I immediately open the float bowl site screw and fuel gently trickles out as it is right at the base of the threads. I cleaned the 4 air meter thingys on the carb throat that look like little jets w/my paint gun cleaning brushes & laquer thinner. I am running a kwik wire 14 circuit harness that has a 14 gauge wire feeding the "bat" terminal on the distributor. Performance dist. Says that is too small and I should be using at least a 12 if not 10 gauge. Because I can't re-wire the harness I am running a 10 gauge wire to the starter solenoid.
I tried the "r" stud and it won't catch now. I put the original 14 gauge back on and it starts. I then put the 10 gauge directly to the battery and it will start but the same thing happens, 800 rpm and dead.
I know you probably have to go home and shave again after reading this novel but what do you think?
Mark from boston