• To ALL forum users - As of late I have been getting quite a few private messages with questions about build ups here on the forum, or tech questions about your personal project. While I appreciate the interest, sending me a private message about these topics distracts from, and undermines the purpose of having a forum here. During the day I wear many hats as a small business owner-operator and I work tirelessly to provide the absolute best service possible to you, our valued customer. When I created this forum I rounded up some of the best minds I knew so that any tech question you might have could be asked and answered by either myself or one of my highly experienced moderators, this way the next time this same question is asked the answer can be easily found and utilized by the next IH enthusiast having the same question. This allows me the freedom to run the day to day operations of the business and minimize the impact to shipments and shop activities that these distractions can cause. It is of the up most importance for me to complete the daily tasks in order to best take care of you our customer, all the while providing you a forum to get the level advice and input you have come to expect and deserve from the premier IH shop in the country.

    So with that I ask that anyone with a question about one of our build ups or a general tech question to please use the forum as it was intended. I am absolutely available by telephone to answer your questions as well but at times may direct you back to our website to better field your question or questions. Most other private messages I will be glad to answer for you.

    Thank you for your understanding.

    Jeff Ismail

Heated Oxygen Sensor

Is anybody using a heated O2 sensor? How do is it wired and does it matter which one?

I have the Affordable Fuel Injection kit that IH Only used to sell.

I installed Stan's Shorty Headers with ceramic coating. I did not want to mess with the coating, so I put O2 sensor downstream of the ball flange.

Now I get codes 13 (lost connection to oxygen sensor) and 44 (out of range lean) whenever I am at light cruise (level, 40-50 MPH). The check engine light does not stay lit when I get back in throttle, and I have confirmed over a couple weeks of driving and clearing codes that I only get them at light throttle.

I think the O2 sensor is not staying hot enough (600 degrees) at light cruise. I know I do not have the sensor in optimal location, but at this point, heated sensor seems simplest solution.

Bill USN-1

F.I. Moderator
A 3 wire normally has 2 black wires and a white wire.
The white is the sensor and the other 2 are the heating element.
Doesn't matter which what you wire them.
12v + and - it's just a element so polarity doesn't matter.
Colors of witres may vary but still the same.
2 of one color.