Fuel Delivery System Service Tips

[Michael Mayben]

Let's discuss tools, shop aids, and techniques involved in servicing gasoline fuel delivery systems in this thread. And keep any specific questions regarding actual carburetors in their respective threads by model series.

 

[Michael Mayben]

I get many calls and emails regarding "how" to clean fuel system components (especially carburetors) when performing a reconditioning operation.

Over the years, I've most often used a "dip solution" such as supplied by berryman's or gunk. That's about the nastiest smellin' crap ever developed and it's near impossible to eliminate the odor from the part even after cleaning/re-assembly. And...due to environmental restrictions, I don't think the stuff is all that effective anymore...but it's all I've found to be even semi-effective in softening/removing heavy varnish build-up and grease/oil baked on from underhood temps over the years.

But recently...dave the gear man jogged my memoryhole back about thirty years to a product produced by crc chemical which carries the brand identification of "tyme" cold parts cleaner:

crc industries automotive

Found at about any full line auto parts jobber, sells for about $25 a gallon.

So a few days ago I rigged up a new dip can and loaded it with tyme. Then put a super-nastee Holley 2300 oem carb that had been remanned by Holley many years ago and then allowed to sit with fuel in it. Ya can imagine what that one smelled like! This is a carb going onna freshbuilt 304 inna Scout 800 down in Missouri.

Results after a 24 hour soak? Amazing! Far more effective than the berryman's crap and no odor! Pull the parts out in the basket, then flush with cold water (do not allow water to enter the dip bucket!!!). And...I can dip in the shop...no longer necessary to do it outside 'cause of the stench!

I then wash all the parts inna laundry sink filled with hot water and laundry detergent. Then shoot internal passages with carb cleaner (aerosol solvent), and blow each passage with compressed air until dry. On some problem children, I put all the parts in the dishwasher for an hour and then repeat the drying process before corrosion sets in.

I have lottsa other "secret" methods of cleanin' this schnizz, but I ain't givin' 'em up...and it don't involve ultrasound!

I buy house brand wallyworld carb spray by the 12pak, the best I've ever used and it's only $1.08 at tha local ww grocery and toilet paper emporium! Beats hail outta $3.95 a can anywhere else!

 

[Michael Mayben]

Here's another very common issue regarding fuel system components...

While some carburetors do in fact have their major components cast in aluminum, most incorporate zinc in their main body castings and peripheral devices. Same for many fuel pumps.

Ya know what happens when moisture is allowed to build up and then sit inside this stuff...instant "white powder" corrosion that is near impossilbe to remove except by using mechanical methods such as wire brush, media blasting, etc.

For many years I've been searching for some formula for sumthin' which will "neutralize" and at least remove the corrosion, even though pitting will remain since the zinc base material has left the scene! And bein' old means I've tried about everything I've ever found on this subject.

But just last weekend, I ran across an oldtime carb dude/guru who had the answer!!!! It won't replace the metal that took a hike and turned to powder...but it will make the parts look all purty!

Inna 2 pound plastic coffee can I'm mixin' one tablespoon of plain old table salt, one cup of white vinegar, and one quart of hot water. Pop the lid back on the can and shake like hell.

Then drop in the rotten parts and re-set the lid and walk away. Shake the can every 15 minutes or so.

Don't leave any part in the soup more than two hours. Remove the parts and quickly scrub 'em with detergent under hot runnin' water, then blow dry.

In some cases, the oem Holley "chromate" finish May be partially removed...but who cares, that affects nothing other than appearance. But the corrosion should be gone, leaving only a slight film that can be easily wiped off with a rag.

This even works inside those inaccessible passages where corrosion May have formed but can't be accessed for cleaning. Just verify there is no restriction/blockage with compressed air during the parts cleaning phase.

I failed chemistry about 4 times in college...so I don't know exactly "what" the process is here, but I know it has to do with reversing oxidation...who cares "how" it works....all I know is that after nearly 40 years of lookin' for the cure...it was revealed by anutha oldtimer! Pass it on!