Front CV drive shaft

SCOTT H

New member
I planned a spring over for years, collected parts, ect. Did the spring over in 2010 using a cebby front axle I cut to Scout width. That said I'm still using the stock front drive shaft and it "kinda works" at speeds up to about 60mph. Anything over that I'm not gonna push it. I found a part that I forgot I had scrounged years ago, a front cv drive shaft.
I "think" it's from a q track heep/early ferd brnco with an auto trans. It has the same u-joints as a Scout, it's about 3 inches too long for the travel I have. I have installed it on the t-case, looks like it will clear my auto trans. The CV is 3 3/4 wide by 4 1/2 long.
Thoughts? it will cost me about 350 to have it rebuilt and shortened to bolt in my Scout
 

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if your doing 60 MPH with the front axel engaged i think your doing great.

at 40MPH mine will vibrate
 
if your doing 60 MPH with the front axel engaged i think your doing great.

at 40MPH mine will vibrate
Lol, It's got a nasty vib at 5-7 mph then it doesn't really come back until 60ish, but it still has that "angle is not right" feel the entire time. Wife and I are shifting to off road/camping shows this next year south of us. We are in northern Indiana.
Last thing I want to happen is to drive 6 hours to a show/gathering, go off roading and "blow" the front shaft while in 4 low on a trail rut in the woods.
I could put in a manual, but I'm known for twisting rear (non stock) drive shafts (my old lifted scout) during a clutch side step launch, so I need to keep the auto trans.
Those pic's I posted, the CV is about 1/4 bigger at best, than the u-joint size, Installed on the t-case yoke it looks like it will work perfect.
 
wonder if its more the shaft is out of balance then the angle of the shaft. double check the balance on that new one.

driving on the highway, do you disengage your hubs ?

i blew my rear drive shaft in highschool doing the same thing, racing, low gear dump the clutch, rear tires spun for a second then kaabooomm no more drive shaft. i kept the twisted in half drive shaft as a souvenir
 
You will need the proper short Spicer CV yoke on the tcase. So add another $100 bucks to get one of those. They are pretty simple to rebuild, just buy 3 new u joints and a centering yoke. (Ball and socket). You could probably have adams Driveshafts build you one for $500 all in brand new. 1310 u joint is the correct size for stock shafts.
 
wonder if its more the shaft is out of balance then the angle of the shaft. double check the balance on that new one.

driving on the highway, do you disengage your hubs ?

i blew my rear drive shaft in highschool doing the same thing, racing, low gear dump the clutch, rear tires spun for a second then kaabooomm no more drive shaft. i kept the twisted in half drive shaft as a souvenir
No, my stock front shaft is spot on. It's going in the traveler once i'm sure this cv shaft will work in mine. I had the stock front shaft rebuilt way back.

"do you disengage your hubs ? ", yes when not in 4wd, ;)
 
You will need the proper short Spicer CV yoke on the tcase. So add another $100 bucks to get one of those. They are pretty simple to rebuild, just buy 3 new u joints and a centering yoke. (Ball and socket). You could probably have adams Driveshafts build you one for $500 all in brand new. 1310 u joint is the correct size for stock shafts.new u joins
I have the stock t case yoke, I have modded the bolts to fit and still have the bolt ends to the end of the cv shaft yoke. I have built countless cv shafts over the years(18 years in a trans shop).

I "could" rebuild the shaft regarding the u joints but the only local drive shaft shop here will not change shaft length unless "they" install the parts.

Sucks, but I retired from the auto side of things and have moved to the marine side. All my old "contacts" have since moved on, so "I'm" just another walk in customer now.
I'm sure it will work, but, I just bought the wife an off lease, low mile wanna be truck so I need to be a bit budget tight this winter.
Another pic.
 

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If you haven't tried the CV shaft yet - it's likely to hit on the corner of the 727 at the CV.
PXL_20230220_044922353-me.jpg


And also - like your stock driveshaft might - against the 727 pan edge by the front.

The pictured driveshaft is 1.75" diameter front unit from a 4cyl TJ.

I'm going to see about a smaller diameter version to see if it'll clear the pan better - among other things, the balance weight wants to hit the pan and I can't clearance it *that* match - so my choice is to lower the bump stops by a good bit, or reduce the diameter of the driveshaft.

There is a 1.25" 1310 CV end.
 
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