DF Sales&Marketing
Oil Tech Moderator
Hello everyone!
I've got to thank greg for getting me onto this thread as I had not seen it, thanks too, michael for mentioning some of the things you did.
With regard to the picture of the top-end, the carbonaceous material you see there is really, really old oil which has been subjected to more heat, either due to a mechanical problem, such as cooling system, or the oil was just plain low quality. The yellowish-brown deposits you see on / around the pushrods and rockers indicate that the oil has oxidized, in this case, a pretty bad case of it. Once again, this could have been caused from a mechanical problem, but more than likely owner neglect and / or poor quality oil......
Flash points on engine oil as well as base-stock quality can have an awful lot to do with creating the conditions you see in the photo, another factor is volatility. These qualities were not paid as much attention to at the time this iron was made because engine temperatures did not run as hot as they do now, but the other really important factor is not an oil factor, but a human problem...... Lack of good sense when it comes to maintenance.
It is true, without mentioning names, that many of the engine oils on the market would display signs of varnish and sludge way before other brands would, that would mean that the oil had gone further than it's designed useful life, and the protection went downhill fast. Once oil starts oxidizing and the metal wears develop, the nitration count goes up, which in turn also increases the total acid number.....so it is a domino effect. When you see yellow-brown to dark brown deposit stains on the dipstick, it's a sure warning sign that what's under the valve covers and in the engine is a lot worse!
Once again (and only because some people need to hear it several times), the newest oil specifications, sm/cj-4 are designed for low-emission engines manufactured after 2006, so when choosing an engine oil, always try to get the previous grade, which is sl/ci-4. (see the oil tech section for "variety of oils" for a full explanation)
swepco 306 supreme formula engine oil is my recommendation for pre-2007 engines, it is made with high quality base stocks and a really beefy additive package, include detergents and dispersants as well as a superior anti-wear formulation. The flash point will vary depending on the weight from 405f to 430f, and the pour point from -31f to -20f, once again depending on the weight. This insures easier starting and protection at cold-start-up temperatures and better protection at the higher operating temperatures, after the engine has warmed up. Generally when using an oil which is made with high quality base stocks, you will notice that the oil pressure will be lower at cold-start ups, and will be higher at operating temperatures than other oils are, what this simply means is that the oil is not thickened excessively when cold, nor thinned excessively when hot.
Thanks for giving me the opportunity to put my two-cents worth in!
Dick floryanowich
I've got to thank greg for getting me onto this thread as I had not seen it, thanks too, michael for mentioning some of the things you did.
With regard to the picture of the top-end, the carbonaceous material you see there is really, really old oil which has been subjected to more heat, either due to a mechanical problem, such as cooling system, or the oil was just plain low quality. The yellowish-brown deposits you see on / around the pushrods and rockers indicate that the oil has oxidized, in this case, a pretty bad case of it. Once again, this could have been caused from a mechanical problem, but more than likely owner neglect and / or poor quality oil......
Flash points on engine oil as well as base-stock quality can have an awful lot to do with creating the conditions you see in the photo, another factor is volatility. These qualities were not paid as much attention to at the time this iron was made because engine temperatures did not run as hot as they do now, but the other really important factor is not an oil factor, but a human problem...... Lack of good sense when it comes to maintenance.
It is true, without mentioning names, that many of the engine oils on the market would display signs of varnish and sludge way before other brands would, that would mean that the oil had gone further than it's designed useful life, and the protection went downhill fast. Once oil starts oxidizing and the metal wears develop, the nitration count goes up, which in turn also increases the total acid number.....so it is a domino effect. When you see yellow-brown to dark brown deposit stains on the dipstick, it's a sure warning sign that what's under the valve covers and in the engine is a lot worse!
Once again (and only because some people need to hear it several times), the newest oil specifications, sm/cj-4 are designed for low-emission engines manufactured after 2006, so when choosing an engine oil, always try to get the previous grade, which is sl/ci-4. (see the oil tech section for "variety of oils" for a full explanation)
swepco 306 supreme formula engine oil is my recommendation for pre-2007 engines, it is made with high quality base stocks and a really beefy additive package, include detergents and dispersants as well as a superior anti-wear formulation. The flash point will vary depending on the weight from 405f to 430f, and the pour point from -31f to -20f, once again depending on the weight. This insures easier starting and protection at cold-start-up temperatures and better protection at the higher operating temperatures, after the engine has warmed up. Generally when using an oil which is made with high quality base stocks, you will notice that the oil pressure will be lower at cold-start ups, and will be higher at operating temperatures than other oils are, what this simply means is that the oil is not thickened excessively when cold, nor thinned excessively when hot.
Thanks for giving me the opportunity to put my two-cents worth in!
Dick floryanowich
