Distributor/Timing? #1or #8
- Thread starter Jason
- Start date
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
Post #9 in this thread will explain the "distributor stab" procedure jason, check it out!:
http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/ignition-tech/640-new-guy-clueless-about-ignition.html
And for the record, travis is no longer clueless!!!
http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/ignition-tech/640-new-guy-clueless-about-ignition.html
And for the record, travis is no longer clueless!!!
Okay, thanks Mike I now have my distributor in and all lined up. Now it turns over very hard and is hard to start, but if I rotate the distributor clock wise it turns over nice but wont run wright. Let me tell you what I am run as well. New distributor, new wires, new plugs, blaster coil and pertronix. Any help would be awesome.
Thanks
jason
Thanks
jason
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
I'm "thinking" you have the distributor stabbed one tooth off still.
Try again!! Practice makes perfect so ya can do this trailside in the dark with snow and sleet/freezing rain crusting over yore eyeballs while ya hold a mag light in yore teeth.
Then, depending upon "which" distributor and p-tron ya installed, make sure the air gap is set using that little piece of acrylic furnished in the hardware package. That sets the "dwell". Once it's set, then do the power timing deal in this thread:
http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/ignition-tech/2122-ignition-power-timing.html
The "hard to crank" indicates timing too advanced...the other description tells me ya retarded the distributor too far. Split the difference and see what happens! But...if it's still one or two teeth off, ya won't be able to make it play nice. Don't scruu with moving the plug wires around or ya will really get confused, just lift it up slightly and rotate the gear one tooth and try again.
Try again!! Practice makes perfect so ya can do this trailside in the dark with snow and sleet/freezing rain crusting over yore eyeballs while ya hold a mag light in yore teeth.
Then, depending upon "which" distributor and p-tron ya installed, make sure the air gap is set using that little piece of acrylic furnished in the hardware package. That sets the "dwell". Once it's set, then do the power timing deal in this thread:
http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/ignition-tech/2122-ignition-power-timing.html
The "hard to crank" indicates timing too advanced...the other description tells me ya retarded the distributor too far. Split the difference and see what happens! But...if it's still one or two teeth off, ya won't be able to make it play nice. Don't scruu with moving the plug wires around or ya will really get confused, just lift it up slightly and rotate the gear one tooth and try again.
Hi michael,
okay, I went through all the step to "re stub" my distributor. I tried moving the rotor over one set of teeth both ways from having the rotor pointing at #8 on the distributor cap. All the ways I tried still starts very hard.
When I have the rotor pointed at #8 and I get it started it runs smooth and with a timing light it lines right up a little pasted tdc. Could I just have a bad starter or the wrong starter? I bought a new starter and installed it a mouth before I started this project. I did not use my scott but a few time with the new start, but one day it did stick open. I got it at kragen auto parts. Part # 4162. I don't know if they sold me the wright one. That is where I'm at. Amy guidance would be a big help.
Thanks agin
jason
okay, I went through all the step to "re stub" my distributor. I tried moving the rotor over one set of teeth both ways from having the rotor pointing at #8 on the distributor cap. All the ways I tried still starts very hard.
When I have the rotor pointed at #8 and I get it started it runs smooth and with a timing light it lines right up a little pasted tdc. Could I just have a bad starter or the wrong starter? I bought a new starter and installed it a mouth before I started this project. I did not use my scott but a few time with the new start, but one day it did stick open. I got it at kragen auto parts. Part # 4162. I don't know if they sold me the wright one. That is where I'm at. Amy guidance would be a big help.
Thanks agin
jason
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
Before blaming the starter for "slow cranking", go over all connections in the battery/starter circuits. Clean the battery terminals, clean and re-mount the ground, and make certain the starter itself is mounted to the block tightly and the face of the starter and the block receptacle are clean. The starter grounds to the block, the block to the frame/body, and the frame/body grounds right back to the battery negative terminal.
If the starter spins the engine freely when the distributor is slightly retarded, then that indicates an ignition timing issue. It's possible that the mechanical advance unit inside the distributor is stuck/binding in the "advanced" position. After removing the cap, turn the rotor by hand and it should "spring back" freely through an arc of approximately 20 degrees.
There are several variations of that common delco starter used in IH apps, the difference is in the length of the "nose" and is very slight. Some IH apps use a steel spacer plate between the starter housing and the engine block to space the starter nose back away from the flywheel which prevents starter drive/ring gear interference. Other IH apps do not use the spacer. When obtaining a reman starter for this stuff, ya gotta compare the nose of the units closely in order to make sure ya get one with the correct dimension.
Many times, when these starter cores are remanned, they get a mis-match of correct parts thrown together so that ya have to go through several of 'em to end up with one that is correct. And...it's certainly not unusual that a "reman" starter is crap right out of the box.
If you know someone who has an inductive (clamp-on) dc ammeter, then performing a starter draw (current) test will tell ya if the starter itself is bogus. Typical current draw on one of these motors is between 85 and 150 amps when cold and cranking over for no more than ten seconds. Any more than that and either the engine is real tight, or the starter itself is crap. These engines in stock form have a very low starter torque requirement comparatively speaking.
If the starter spins the engine freely when the distributor is slightly retarded, then that indicates an ignition timing issue. It's possible that the mechanical advance unit inside the distributor is stuck/binding in the "advanced" position. After removing the cap, turn the rotor by hand and it should "spring back" freely through an arc of approximately 20 degrees.
There are several variations of that common delco starter used in IH apps, the difference is in the length of the "nose" and is very slight. Some IH apps use a steel spacer plate between the starter housing and the engine block to space the starter nose back away from the flywheel which prevents starter drive/ring gear interference. Other IH apps do not use the spacer. When obtaining a reman starter for this stuff, ya gotta compare the nose of the units closely in order to make sure ya get one with the correct dimension.
Many times, when these starter cores are remanned, they get a mis-match of correct parts thrown together so that ya have to go through several of 'em to end up with one that is correct. And...it's certainly not unusual that a "reman" starter is crap right out of the box.
If you know someone who has an inductive (clamp-on) dc ammeter, then performing a starter draw (current) test will tell ya if the starter itself is bogus. Typical current draw on one of these motors is between 85 and 150 amps when cold and cranking over for no more than ten seconds. Any more than that and either the engine is real tight, or the starter itself is crap. These engines in stock form have a very low starter torque requirement comparatively speaking.