cv yoke question

Blake866

Member
I have a 65 Scout 80 350 Chevy sm420 trany with a Dana 18 transfer case. Just go a cv drive shaft made for it.I need to replace the output yoke for rear drive shaft.are there any special procedures for this. What is the normal torque spec for the yoke I have read anywhere from 175 f lb/s to 250.
 
I have a 65 Scout 80 350 Chevy sm420 trany with a Dana 18 transfer case. Just go a cv drive shaft made for it.I need to replace the output yoke for rear drive shaft.are there any special procedures for this. What is the normal torque spec for the yoke I have read anywhere from 175 f lb/s to 250.

I use 175ft./lbs. For the companion shaft nut/yoke torque spec.

When the old yoke is removed, watch for any shims between the end of it and the inner race on the bearing. Those are sometimes present in order to space the yoke "out" so that the seal has a fresh surface to ride on which negates the need to install a repair sleeve on the yoke so a new seal will "seal".

You May also find a rubber, splined washer under the companion shaft nut, that is used to prevent oil migration through the spline. Clean/degrease the splines and the replacement yoke, I then spread a thin coat of permatex #2 or hylomar on the splines before sliding in place. A very thin application!
 
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Need help.I replaced the rear seal on the rear yoke area when I torque down the yoke to 175 foot pounds and the transfer case in neutral and car out of gear I can not spin the output shaft by hand.I have to put a socket on the yoke bolt to make it move is this normal. I know I was able to spin the old yoke forwards and back a little bit. Thanks just want to make sure its right.
 
Are the rear wheels still on the ground? If yes, then disco the driveline at the t/c and spin the yoke. If its still to tight to move, then something is unhappy with your new yoke install. It should move by hand, even with a new seal.
 
From the looks of your pics, I'd say someone has been inside the unit who did not know what the hell they were doing! Look at all that fookin' rtv squeezed out around the pan, the same thing went inside the pan and is floating around in the sump.

I don't care what novak sez, ya use gaskets properly applied on this stuff, not rtv!

Obviously the endplay/pre-load setup on the rear output shaft bearing is scruud. Had to have been that way before also, you just didn't know it. I'd venture whoever was inside that case left the yoke nut loose so the shaft would spin. Most likely rtv is smeared all over the shims also so there is no way to set this up without cleaning everything. The endplay/bearing pre-load is set through the selective application of shims.

The shims get a near transparent coat of something like coppercoat adhesive once the shim pack is determined. Rtv acts like a shim and adds to the tolerance stack in an uncontrolled manner. That creates the final seal on the perimeter of the output shaft housing.
 
I took off the yoke and was able to get the new seal in a little more I guess I didn't hit it hard enough the first time. Now I am able to move the drive shaft with my hand its a little tighter than before though. But looks like you guys are recommending a rebuilt soon am I right?
 
Drove it around the block check if its ok. Definitely has a new noise so what should I do next get a rebuild kit for the transfer case?
 
Right now, novak is the best resource for tech info for the transfer cases and manual transmissions used in IH apps. And their technical information should,be combined with the appropriate IH service manual:

the Dana spicer model 18 transfer case - novak conversions

Regarding a full rebuild hit for a d18/d20, contact ihon by phone, we don't show those in the online store at this time.
 
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