I purchased an old Scout that had been sitting for a year or so. I recently got it up and running... The water is really rusty and I am wanting to flush it all out... Some one told me to take off the top radiator hose and put a garden hose in the fill hole... Turn on engine and watch until the fluid is clear... When I did nothing came out the hose from the engine just the open end of the radiator... Am I doing something wrong or is this telling me I have another problem?
coolant flushing
- Thread starter stump44
- Start date
I am by no means an expert, but...
Was the engine hot when you started? If the engine isn't hot the thermostat should cause the coolant to recirculate through the engine rather than through the radiator.
If you search this site you'll find good advice on how to flush the radiator.
--jim
Was the engine hot when you started? If the engine isn't hot the thermostat should cause the coolant to recirculate through the engine rather than through the radiator.
If you search this site you'll find good advice on how to flush the radiator.
--jim
Or, start here: http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/basic-tech-questions/4480-fluid-filter-specs.html - item #3 
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
Any liquid cooled engine should have the cooling system flushed periodically.
It's very simple to use one of the flush kits available at walmart and any auto supply. That places the flush attachment in the correct position to do a "back flush" without removing any part. What you are doing with a simple dump through the radiator does nothing to the engine side!
I've posted this process before many times, here it is again. This totally explains why the ihc-designed cooling system is important and also how to service it. There is no difference between an sv cooling system and that used in the I-4 engine, only the actual water neck is different
It's very simple to use one of the flush kits available at walmart and any auto supply. That places the flush attachment in the correct position to do a "back flush" without removing any part. What you are doing with a simple dump through the radiator does nothing to the engine side!
I've posted this process before many times, here it is again. This totally explains why the ihc-designed cooling system is important and also how to service it. There is no difference between an sv cooling system and that used in the I-4 engine, only the actual water neck is different
Ok -
let's back up several steps here...
First, a little about me. I picked up a Scout a year and a half ago specifically because I wanted something to tinker with. My mechanical skills are very limited, and I've asked a whole bunch of "newbie" questions on this site and received patient and helpful responses. That's a lot of the reason I follow these threads and also why I try to provide information when I can. I also try to do a little research first. Sometimes this doesn't work because I'm searching for the wrong terms or the stuff I'm searching for is too short (try to find anything on "egr"...). But by doing the research first and explaining what I tried so far in my posts I try to make sure I'm not wasting other people's time asking for information that's readily available.
You started with "some one told me to..." - personally, I wouldn't do it the way this someone told you to, and it sounds like it's not working terribly well for you either.
Second, removing the thermostat to flush the coolant is a bad idea. Asking the question suggests that your level of mechanical competence is on par with my own I'd strongly recommend finding someone local with expertise who's willing to lend a hand for food and beer. Not knowing where you are I can't tell you how to do this, but there seem to be local Scout groups all over the place.
The link I posted directs you to several other links on this site that provide good information on the right way to flush coolant. In addition to the process and recommended tools (prestone flush kit), there is a wealth of information on other factors to consider, like proper disposal of coolant. In addition to being good for keeping down the stray dog population there May be legalities associated with just dumping the stuff on the ground. Even if you collect it properly disposal May be challenging in your area. Some folks let a garage handle coolant flushing for just this reason.
There's nothing particularly special about an IH engine when it comes to flushing a cooling system. Take a few minutes to search this site. Take a few more minutes to search the internet in general about flushing coolant. Let us know what you plan to do and we'll provide feedback on whether we think it's a good idea or not. My opinion (note qualifications above) is that you need a new plan. I'd follow the advice mr. Mayben provides in the links mentioned in my previous post.
It took me a while to figure this out, but it pays to trust mr. Mayben implicitly on IH matters. You won't find better technical advice anywhere else.
let's back up several steps here...
First, a little about me. I picked up a Scout a year and a half ago specifically because I wanted something to tinker with. My mechanical skills are very limited, and I've asked a whole bunch of "newbie" questions on this site and received patient and helpful responses. That's a lot of the reason I follow these threads and also why I try to provide information when I can. I also try to do a little research first. Sometimes this doesn't work because I'm searching for the wrong terms or the stuff I'm searching for is too short (try to find anything on "egr"...). But by doing the research first and explaining what I tried so far in my posts I try to make sure I'm not wasting other people's time asking for information that's readily available.
You started with "some one told me to..." - personally, I wouldn't do it the way this someone told you to, and it sounds like it's not working terribly well for you either.
Second, removing the thermostat to flush the coolant is a bad idea. Asking the question suggests that your level of mechanical competence is on par with my own
I'd strongly recommend finding someone local with expertise who's willing to lend a hand for food and beer. Not knowing where you are I can't tell you how to do this, but there seem to be local Scout groups all over the place. The link I posted directs you to several other links on this site that provide good information on the right way to flush coolant. In addition to the process and recommended tools (prestone flush kit), there is a wealth of information on other factors to consider, like proper disposal of coolant. In addition to being good for keeping down the stray dog population there May be legalities associated with just dumping the stuff on the ground. Even if you collect it properly disposal May be challenging in your area. Some folks let a garage handle coolant flushing for just this reason.
There's nothing particularly special about an IH engine when it comes to flushing a cooling system. Take a few minutes to search this site. Take a few more minutes to search the internet in general about flushing coolant. Let us know what you plan to do and we'll provide feedback on whether we think it's a good idea or not. My opinion (note qualifications above) is that you need a new plan. I'd follow the advice mr. Mayben provides in the links mentioned in my previous post.
It took me a while to figure this out, but it pays to trust mr. Mayben implicitly on IH matters. You won't find better technical advice anywhere else.
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Thanks for the discussion, guys. After reading along, I think I screwed up - big time. Yesterday I pulled my upper radiator hose, cleaned the hose and pipe, and replaced the thermostat and upper gasket before flushing the coolant. Unfortunately, I hadn't even considered researching such a simple process. Here's where I really stepped in it - I used a silicon gasket sealant on the upper gasket. I'm sure it's nice and snug, but from Mike mayben's attachment, it looks like I May have just destroyed my engine. Yep, I'm apparently an idiot.
I ran the engine for about 10-15min yesterday to complete the flush. Can someone please tell me all is not lost and provide any advice for cleaning up this mess? Thanks.
I ran the engine for about 10-15min yesterday to complete the flush. Can someone please tell me all is not lost and provide any advice for cleaning up this mess? Thanks.
Huh -
my initial (now corrected) reaction to your post started with something like "you dummy - ". I have a strong aversion to the overuse of sealants in general because I've seen them over applied to the point where excess material breaks off and wanders into places it doesn't belong. Sealants do a good job of sealing even when they're not where you want them. My general experience (limited - see post above) has been that gaskets do what they're supposed to do, and thick blobs of sealant are the tool of someone who either doesn't know what they're doing or doesn't have the right parts or experience.
Add to that mr. Mayben's words 'do not under any circumstances, use any type of “rtv” or “silicone sealant” anywhere on this water neck/thermostat housing assembly! It will migrate into the wrong places and will impede correct engine cooling and thermostatic-control of the engine cooling system!' and it seems like a no-brainer that silicone sealant on the thermostat housing is a bad idea. However, a quick google search shows many sets of directions (for non-IH vehicles) for installing thermostats that specifically state to use silicone sealant! (and none that I found quickly stating not to use sealants except for mr. Mayben's.)
based on this, I'm assuming that there are either a whole lot of idiots out there (probably true), or a small amount of properly applied silicone sealant isn't the end of the world and May even be beneficial under some circumstances (possibly true). Several questions come to mind:
1. Did you apply a thin coating of sealant?
2. Did you allow time for it to cure fully before moving on to the next step?
(if the answers to both are yes, migration seems unlikely)
and a question for mr. Mayben: is your aversion to silicone sealants, like mine, related to improper application leading to blobs ending up places they shouldn't, or is there something else about them we should be worried about? (ignoring the fact that sealant isn't required in this application...)
my initial (now corrected) reaction to your post started with something like "you dummy - ". I have a strong aversion to the overuse of sealants in general because I've seen them over applied to the point where excess material breaks off and wanders into places it doesn't belong. Sealants do a good job of sealing even when they're not where you want them. My general experience (limited - see post above) has been that gaskets do what they're supposed to do, and thick blobs of sealant are the tool of someone who either doesn't know what they're doing or doesn't have the right parts or experience.
Add to that mr. Mayben's words 'do not under any circumstances, use any type of “rtv” or “silicone sealant” anywhere on this water neck/thermostat housing assembly! It will migrate into the wrong places and will impede correct engine cooling and thermostatic-control of the engine cooling system!' and it seems like a no-brainer that silicone sealant on the thermostat housing is a bad idea. However, a quick google search shows many sets of directions (for non-IH vehicles) for installing thermostats that specifically state to use silicone sealant! (and none that I found quickly stating not to use sealants except for mr. Mayben's.)
based on this, I'm assuming that there are either a whole lot of idiots out there (probably true), or a small amount of properly applied silicone sealant isn't the end of the world and May even be beneficial under some circumstances (possibly true). Several questions come to mind:
1. Did you apply a thin coating of sealant?
2. Did you allow time for it to cure fully before moving on to the next step?
(if the answers to both are yes, migration seems unlikely)
and a question for mr. Mayben: is your aversion to silicone sealants, like mine, related to improper application leading to blobs ending up places they shouldn't, or is there something else about them we should be worried about? (ignoring the fact that sealant isn't required in this application...)
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
My first aversion to the use of rtv is based upon it's not needed unless you are dealing with a very late model vehicle where the stuff (or a somewhat related version of the stuff ) was used instead of a gasket. That means a surface was finely finished so that only a "rubberized" sealant was used. That is a cost reduction area.
None of this old stuff ever had an rtv product applied back in the day as the gaskets certainly did their job in an adequate manner.
Secondly, folks simply won't use an rtv-type material in a very small manner, they gob it on and think that will create a seal. But in actuality they are creating a significant loss in fluid flow and adding restriction.
But then, back in earlier times they also gobbed on the permatex #2 and it did the same thing.
Most gaskets today (even many of the gaskets found in sets used only for ihc applications), actually have a heat-reactive compound applied during their production. Head gaskets all are manufactured in a modern form using materials that require no sealant and also require no re-torque.
None of this old stuff ever had an rtv product applied back in the day as the gaskets certainly did their job in an adequate manner.
Secondly, folks simply won't use an rtv-type material in a very small manner, they gob it on and think that will create a seal. But in actuality they are creating a significant loss in fluid flow and adding restriction.
But then, back in earlier times they also gobbed on the permatex #2 and it did the same thing.
Most gaskets today (even many of the gaskets found in sets used only for ihc applications), actually have a heat-reactive compound applied during their production. Head gaskets all are manufactured in a modern form using materials that require no sealant and also require no re-torque.