clutch question

[gglenn]

I have the engine pulled out of my '66 800, and it is painted and ready to be put back in. The ring gear on the flywheel was chewed up, so I had a machine shop put a new one on it. They also surfaced the flywheel.

I have been advised by friends who know a lot more than me that I should replace the clutch while I have it out since it will be easy to get to. It seemed to be working fine before. Everything also looks ok to me. (I readily admit I don't know what I'm looking for) is there any foolproof way to tell if it really needs replacing or if I would just be spending $400 for nothing.

Is it necessary to replace every component, or can certain parts be safely replaced? None of my friends have any experience with scouts.

 

[Robert Kenney]

Depending on modle of clutch there is a minimum thickness. Usually so long as the grooves are still deep it will function. Proper pressure plate adjustment is important. Can you post pictures of the disk. Must be good quality to make out the friction media surface.

On a borg and beck style or angle link I will inspect for damage to the springs, levers and wear surfaces and adjust the levers. Then have the disk relined.

 

[gglenn]

Thanks. Someone who knows what they are looking at might say it is junk. Or it might be ok, too. I just don't want to spend a bunch of money if it isn't necessary. I will only be driving my Scout around town occasionally. No rock crawling either.

I "inspected" the pressure plate. There does not seem to be any damage or any major wear. But, then again, I don't know what I'm looking for. I sure don't know how to adjust the levers.

 

[Robert Kenney]

Looks to have a lot of life remaining. The grooves runing radialy from inside to out side are deep and well defined. I'd run it if it were my rig.

Clean the splines and with some 150 sand paper rub the friction lining just enough to deglaze it. Do the same to the pressure plate face. This will help it seat in and have good grip.

When you bolt the disk and pressure plate to the flywheel prior to sticking the engine and trans back together, see that the levers are at the same height so the to bearing won't wobble and cause the clutch to shudder.

You should be good to go on a budget. Remember that there could still be issues with the pp that could cause undesirable results. Worth a try for $400.00. After all your labor if free.

 

[gglenn]

Thanks for the help!

 

[gglenn]

I am attempting to put the clutch assembly back together and I have a couple of questions.
First, which side of the clutch disk faces the flywheel. If you look at the pictures I posted, one side of the disk has the part number on it and the center part that the shaft goes through does not protrude out as far as it does on the other side.

Second, can anyone explain to me the proper way to position the bearings. Pictures would be great. this is the first time I have ever attempted something like this and I don't want to screw it up. Thank you.

 

[Robert Kenney]

Part number toward the flywheel. You need a clutch alignment tool to center up the disk with the flywheel while you install teh pressure plate...

What bearings are you refering to?

 

[gglenn]

The pilot and throwout bearings. I was mostly referring to the direction to turn the throwout bearing. It has one flat surface and one surface that is rounded a little. Which edge goes toward the pressure plate levers? I assume that the flat edge goes against the pilot bearing, and the "rounded" edge against the pressure plate. That is a very uneducated guess, though. I fully realize that these are probably dumb questions, but I am a mechanical dummy... And I have no shame.

 

[Robert Kenney]

If you have not removed the bearing from the holder/hub, the turning slightly rounded face goes toward the pressure plate fingers. The pilot bearing pressed into the center of the end of the crank shaft. If the hole in the pilot bearing has a chamfer, that side goes out.