Automatic issues

[blueblur1984]

Hey again folks. I've just noticed that the automatic transmission (this is for a 72 Scout with a front axel swap and a 345 v8) does not park. The other gears work fine, but when I pop it into park it doesn't lock up the wheels. Fortunately the parking brake works ok but I'm wondering if this is an indicator I have bigger transmission issues brewing. Has anybody else on here encountered this or is my rig just special?

 

[Michael Mayben]

hey again folks. I've just noticed that the automatic transmission (this is for a 72 Scout with a front axel swap and a 345 v8) does not park. The other gears work fine, but when I pop it into park it doesn't lock up the wheels. Fortunately the parking brake works ok but I'm wondering if this is an indicator I have bigger transmission issues brewing. Has anybody else on here encountered this or is my rig just special?

First off, make certain the shifter cable is in excellent condition in order to be able to be adjusted properly. Verify the cable adjustment.

Then...remove the cable end fitting from the shift lever on the trans and manual place the shift lever completely into "park", making certain it indexes correctly in it's detent. With the rear wheels off the ground and the axle on jack stands, rotate the rear driveline or a wheel and verify that the transmission is either in a "locked" position (park) or not.

If the trans does not lock the rear output, then most likely either the parking pawl or the parking pawl spring inside the intermediate (tail) housing has broken and there is no pawl to lock the parking sprocket on the perimeter of the governor assembly. If either are broken, that is an easy fix. The transfer case needs to come out, then the intermediate housing (transfer case adapter needs to be removed. The parking pawl and spring are inside a receptacle in that housing and easily repaired with service parts. The broken parts should be found laying in the bottom of the intermediate housing and will not cause any damage just laying there, the parts can't get inside the transmission or transfer case.

 

[blueblur1984]

Thanks again michael! You're a life saver. I have all day Saturday devoted to picking through the Scout so hopefully I'll have a better idea of what's going on.

 

[Michael Mayben]

I thought I had pics of all that guapo...but I guess not. I have some transfer case adapters/intermediate housings/tailhousings (whatever you wanna call 'em) here now and can take some pics of the internal area in question if ya need 'em.

If you do end up having to pull the adapter housing, you will need to remove the transfer case input gear (bull gear) off the output shaft, that will require a bit of muscle and a long cheater bar!

Then plan to replace both the seals behind the bull gear while it's off, no sense in putting it back together and then discovering ya got tranny fluid going into the transfer case.

Have patience when attempting to adjust the shift cable, if the cable is original it's most likely in pretty bad shape and will be a bitch to adjust, a new cable makes the trans actuation just like new! Same for that little saddle clamp that retains the conduit to the mounting stay, that needs to hold the conduit very snugly, any slop in that mount is greatly accentuated when attempting to adjust the cable.

 

[herculz]

Dont want to steal your thread, but im have a hell of a time removing a line that when I think I am unthreading it I see the aluminum hose doing the twist. Do some of these sieze up and just require a new one. I just picked up a 78 traveller and need to remove the tranny to go get my new/used one from Mike. As you can tell its 11:30 pm and I've given up trying to unbolt those lines, I sprayed some stuff on it to remove it tomorrow but hate working in the sun out here in san bernardino county.

I'll update my sig with details of the rig.

Thanks again

 

[Michael Mayben]

I believe you are describing the transmission cooler lines. Those are zinc-plate steel tubing with steel female flare nuts originally.

Standard practice for removing any tube/flare connection is to use a tubing wrench on the nut with a backup open end wrench holding the brass (or sometimes steel) transition fitting that is threaded into the transmission case. Otherwise you will destroy the tubing if turning only the nut with no backup.

The adapter fitting threaded into the case uses a pipe thread (npt) on the end that threads into the aluminum case. It's easy to strip that right out and for the rear fitting the case will crack also if no backup wrench is used.