Another Reverse Shackle Question (or two)

[POPS]

Got the front fangs and crosstube tacked in place per the instructions.
(great product by the way with straightforward instructions). So far pretty easy. Rolled the front end under and front springeyes slid right into place. Placed 2X4's and let her rest on her own. Looks good but rear of the springs are about 1/2 inch to the right of center on the frame. I can 'massage' them into place but I realy don't want to jack anything up. Is ther something simple I should check?

76 Scout II, 345, auto, original D44s.
Scout has never been wrecked to my knowledge.
Frame looks near perfect.
Has new RC 4" springs.

I was thinking loosen u-bolts on axle and see if it helps line up?


Also, the RC 4" springs have been on the Scout with weight on them for several years, although it hasn't driven in this time and springs are still super stiff. Should I still use the 5 degree angle on rear shackle?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[ihpartsjeff]

If both springs are angled toward the right of center, then I would double check that you welded the front spring hanger fangs square to the chassis. If one fang is slightly forward of the other it will cause this scenario and make the Scout "dogleg" down the road when driven. We usually double check our measurements to the frame by measuring from the oval hole on the frame (the one where the shackle ends up getting drilled thru) to the spring mounting bolt on the fang. You can try loosening up the ubolts to see if that helps any but definitely double check your measurements.

As for the shackle angle, the more angle you put into the shackle, the more it will lean into the corners. We still recommend starting with 5 degrees as it always still settles in a little more when you're all done. Also make sure you grease up the 2x4 so that the spring can move with as much as ease as possible when jouncing the suspension.

 

[POPS]

Thanks Jeff. I'm fairly confident that I got the fangs square, but I will certainly doublecheck using your measuring method. And grease the 2X4's... Genius!!!

I appreciate your quick response.

 

[POPS]

Measurements came out spot-on. Greased 2X4's and some jouncing and she lined up quite nicely. Got angles set and pilot holes drilled (my arbor was threaded wrong for the hole saw, tomorrow's job). Thank you again for the help. This kit is awesome...

 

[POPS]

Got install completed. Went very smooth (although my welding is not gonna win any awards). Thanks for the great product and great advice. Before and after pics attached.

 

[72 Scout II]

I have a question:

I have the RS kit and I just started grinding off the spring hangers. In the front on both sides there's a plate that seems to go with the hanger.

As you can see in the picture the hanger and the plate came off as two separate pieces.

However the second plate (i.e. the plate the guy on the other side of the assembly line put on) is much more secure and did not come off with the same ease as the first.

So, do you remove these plates regardless; do you leave them if they are really well stuck on there? Was it supposed to stay on?

There is also the question of what to do with the gaps in the frame boxing. It seems obvious to me that they should be filled and ground in order to produce a 'mostly level' surface that is more secure and fully boxed. Some of the photos of prior builds show gaps in these areas. Whats your SOP for this?

What do you guys do?

 

[72 Scout II]

I have a question about my 72 Scout II;

I have the RS kit and I just started grinding off the spring hangers. In the front on both sides there's a plate that seems to go with the hanger.

As you can see in the picture the hanger and the plate came off as two separate pieces.

However the second plate (i.e. the plate the guy on the other side of the assembly line put on) is much more secure (deeper in the frame) and did not come off with the same ease as the first.

So, do you remove these plates regardless; do you leave them if they are really well stuck on there?

There is also the question of what to do with the gaps in the frame boxing. It seems obvious to me that they should be filled and ground in order to produce a 'mostly level' surface that is more secure and fully boxed. How do you handle this?

What do you guys do?

 

[Michael Dimock]

We normally will cut everything off so there is no extra material left on the bottom of the frame rail. The hangers can be stubborn to fully remove for sure.

The front fangs get tacked in place at first and then welded in. Since they are thicker than the frame material we haven't found a need to level out the surface any. It ends up strengthening the frame in the end.

If you are referencing the factory welds at the frame seams, then yes, you can repair the areas that were missed. We have seen some poor quality welds over the years. Thanks.