Another 345 over heated?

metric scout

New member
After reading the crack head thread here, my mystery leak might be a lot more serious than a leaking plug at the underside of the manifold. Here's the long story.

I came back 3 weeks ago from yosemite. There was a snow storm in the valley. We had about 2' of snow overnight. It was an awesome view. The trucked loved the cold weather.

On the way back to the bay area on I-580 east, I noticed the temperature gage was at normal (needle in the middle). It's always at the far left and never moved. So I assume far left is normal and middle is the red zone. Kind of like my fuel gage. 3/4 is full and empty is actually 1/3 tank left.

I started to lose a little power and by the time I was going over the hill near pleasanton, the engine was making the clucking noise. Low oil pressure?

We stopped off for nations giant burgers for about an hour. Checked the engine oil, looks a quart low. Started the truck and the temperature gage went back to middle. I made it back to south city an hour later but I could feel there's a slight loss of power when I got home

two weeks later, I drove it around my area and the engine just never recovered. It's weaker than before with definite lack of ferocity that I am used to. A cracked head perhaps? I read in another thread, crack heads are common and people just drive it around like that. I guess I'll do the same.
 
Every engine is it's own situation. You cannot judge your possible engine issues by anyone else's! IH motors are certainly not alone in the possible "cracked head" department!

Regarding a "normal" range of temperature as displayed on an oem gauge...indicator needle anywhere within the two "ends" of the white horizontal line on the gauge face is within normal operating range. Where the gauge "runs" under a cruise speed load is dependent upon the setpoint of the thermostat installed and if it's operating within it's design tolerance.

The only way to determine what ya have going on is a complete diagnosis! An IH engine is no different from any other internal combustion engine in this regard.

Diagnostics include cold and hot compression tests, and a pressure test of the entire cooling system including the pressure cap.

If a cooling system pressure test indicates indicates internal leakage, then the heads come off for determining "why" if there is no evidence of any external coolant leak while under pressure.

A cylinder(s) with an internal leak (such as a cracked combustion chamber) will have a spark plug electrode set that looks like it's been sandblasted and will be much "whiter" than the rest of the plugs when compared.

So determine "why" the engine temperature range display has changed first. Then work towards a resolution of that without shotgunning the deal.
 
What is your water to antifreeze ratio?
Notice any white smoke or steam from the tailpipe?
Water or change of color (brown) in the oil?
Any puddles under the truck?
 
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