Alternator wiring issue

H

hillbry

Member
Have a 71 Scout II that I am wanting to get back on its feet and have encounterd some wiring issues. As I have read through some of the posts it is not really a suprise to hear that the electrical systems seem to be a reoccurring theme when owning an International.

Anyways, here we go. The Scout has been sitting in a field for 6 plus years so who knows what I still May find. I have changed all the major fluids, new battery and emptied the gas tank. I went to start it and the larger gauge alternator wire fried in three different spots. Not that far from the alternator, which is an original delco remey, right next to the fire wall and where it attaches to the gauge on the dash. Even before I started it I just turned the ignition over to see if any gauges registered but nothing.

I am definately not an electrical guy so go easy on me. I have pulled most of the dash off and assessed the other wires and they look really good, minus some old electrical tape. I am pretty sure it is the original wiring. I think I am the third owner. I am wanting to eventually get it tricked out but right now want to do the somewhat minimum to make sure I can tend to any bigger issues that May rise on my way to getting it road worthy.
 
First thing that comes to mind...rats and mice have had their way with the crunchy stuff. They live of wiring harness material on old junkiron.

The wire run you describe is the primary "feed" to the fuse panel and then to virtually every electrical load on the vehicle. It is also how juice from the alternator outputs gets back to the battery positive terminal for charging purposes.

So starting at the alternator output terminal, split what remains of the loom open and follow that 10 gauge wire run through all points and junctions.

If your rig is truly a '71 model, then it May be a somewhat rare "810". It's my understanding that those did not incorporate a fusible link in the main feed so that if an overload occurs anywhere in that circuit, that 10 gauge wire run will bake. I think what you are seeing is the insulation overheated and pulled away from the way in several places, but not a situation where that wire shorted to ground at several points simultaneously. However, that really doesn't matter, simply replace that wire run in it's entirety. And instead of using a "fusible link" to protect it, look into using a maxifuse holder with a 50amp maxifuse.
 
So I am thinking about not wiring back the existing alternarot gauge:

1. Is that recomendable?
2. If so then how would I wire the alternator and solenoid?
3. Should I look into buying an engine harness wiring kit (I found a sectioned out wiring kit on superscoutspecialists.com) definately not going to buy a full kit.
4. Any other thoughts would be appreciated.

Basically I am having difficulty pulling just the alternator wire because it melted in some places and is not coming out so easily.
 
hillbry said:
so I am thinking about not wiring back the existing alternarot gauge:

1. Is that recomendable?
2. If so then how would I wire the alternator and solenoid?
3. Should I look into buying an engine harness wiring kit (I found a sectioned out wiring kit on superscoutspecialists.com) definately not going to buy a full kit.
4. Any other thoughts would be appreciated.

Basically I am having difficulty pulling just the alternator wire because it melted in some places and is not coming out so easily.
Click to expand...

Obviously you have been browsing other enthusiasts forums where the elimination of the ammeter is debated. My opinion (and what I do on every ihc vehicle I work with that has an issue electrically) is to retain the ammeter. And I add a voltmeter to the array. With an ammeter (properly wired) and a voltmeter (properly wired), you will have continuous monitoring of the charging system overall.

The methodology of using an ammeter in the oem instrumentation was not the reason you (and many others) have all kinds of electrical problems similar to what you describe. It's because ihc (and other oem) scrimped in the execution of the entire wiring system engineering, and the materials selected to put the system together.

One of the most effective workarounds that is easily done on these vehicles is the simple addition of an additional starter relay. That serves as a junction point for future upgrades, will solve any potential "hot start" issue (unless the starter itself is failing), and makes the access for connections much easier. This upgrade information is found in this thread:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.co...pgrade-remote-starter-relay-installation.html

An alternative wire run scenario for use with any delcotron 10si alternator is likewise covered in this thread:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/electrical-tech/3364-delcotron-10si-alternator-thread.html

Note that both of these how-to's are used in conjunction with each other. However, to integrate the alternator alternative wiring into the oem Scout II system, a few changes must be made to incorporate the ammeter system because that is the primary feed to the power distribution system (I.e. Fuse panel).

As for removing any damaged wire runs as you describe, simply use a razor knife and carefully slit the insulation sections that are fused together. Then you can inspect the actual wire for damage an replace those sections that need attention. You most likely will discoiver that the actual damage is very minimal and all that is required is a proper repair.

That said...the bulkhead connector that contains the 10 gauge wire runs is always going to be an issue and is part of root cause of failure as we've advised so many times in other threads. Whether to choose to attempt to clean and repair it, or eliminate it, is up to you. In my work, it goes into the scrap pile and is replaced with alternative methodology (normally a terminal strip).
 
I have a wiring kit on the way but I am curious about the wiring to the alternator. Mine is set up with a 10 gauge going from the alt to the ammeter and then another 10 gauge going from solenoid to the ammeter. What would happen if I connected the alt straight to solenoid? Would it work properly and if so what problems or issues would I face (minus not have a meter)? Just curious not an electrical genius, as you can tell.
 
The starter would work, but nothing else would.

You must feed the fuse panel from somewhere, in the oem IH stuff, that is done from the ammeter.
 
Will a defective ammeter cause the battery not to charge. Also when I disconnect the battery while my 68 Scout is running it dies..my alternator is good, however my ammeter gauge is busted, what should I do??
 
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