ac system

1hc72

Member
What parts from other vehicles can I use to get ac in my truck? Specifically the condensor and the compressor. I still want to use r 12 refrigerant as it is a better system
 
what parts from other vehicles can I use to get ac in my truck? Specifically the condensor and the compressor. I still want to use r 12 refrigerant as it is a better system

Don't know where ya heard that "r12 is a better system"??? Pure beerthirty bullshit.

Ya need to find a factory ac compressor mount for a cci/york compressor. Ihon is in the final design stages of marketing a fine adapter mount to install a modern seltec/tama or sanden compressor onto the oem mount.

Then simply order up a new "under dash" evaporator unit form vintage or many other suppliers. Add an appropriate receiver/drier with a pressure switch and a parallel flow condenser which is also a "generic" item. Have a local shop make up the barrier hoses and evac and charge with r-134a and drive.

R
 
have a local shop make up the barrier hoses and evac and charge with r-134a and drive.

R

Michael,

can you elaborate more on these barrier hoses?
How do they hook up to the evaporator? My factory unit has hose clamps on both lines. Coming in and out of the evaporator.
 
Julian, any automotive a/c shop will know how to hook into your existing hardware. Barrier hose is usualy a swaged on interface using a stem and ferral type of fitting.

Google barrier hose with air conditioning.
 
michael,

can you elaborate more on these barrier hoses?
How do they hook up to the evaporator? My factory unit has hose clamps on both lines. Coming in and out of the evaporator.

Hose clamped hose is a juryrig repair situation, goes with the old r-12 "soft liner" hose and is used with those barbed fitting we discussed in that other post. Someone has done some kinda workaround, hose clamped systems were not a "factory" deal for anyone, but were used in aftermarket add-on kit installs.

Barrier hose must be made up with proper fittings using a "bubble" crimp system. Jeff has a proper crimping set in the shop, maybe when he gets back to work next week he can post a pic.

A "clamped" hose cannot retain r-134a, it will literally pour out of any hose makeup that is not of the correct type and properly crimped.
 
Michael,

this is the factory setup. It has some metal hose clamps on barbed fittings. The clamps have a metal bar built into them, that goes inside the hose onto the fitting. I ran my a/c unit like this with r-134 in it for two years. I never had any leaks. I had uv dye in it in case. The a/c was cold, but never as cold as when I had r-12 in it. Could the a/c shop have put less r-134 in it, to keep the system from rupturing? It worked well, and it did not cycle constantly or do anything funny.
 
Ok I have the york dealer installed a/c system. Was wondering my receiver has in and out on the barbed tube ends. What way do I place it. Does the inside face the condenser and the outside face the evaporator or does it go the other way around? The compressor pushes into the condenser and then out to the drier then out to the expansion valve then into the evaporator then back to the compressor. Is this right?another quick question.
What would cause the system to hold to much pressure? Like 100psi instead of 25 to 30 psi.



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a/c receiver drier, a/c fan relay, a/c evaporator, a/c compressor
 
The high side line from the condensor goes to the in port on the dryer. The out port connects to the evap hose.
If the system is not running your guages could possibly read 100 on the high side but if it is reading that on the low side I would be concerned. You are going to have to be more clear in your explanation and let us know what the guages read at rest and with the system in operation . Be specific we need to know ambient air temps at the time engine rpms and the amount of refrigerant and what type 134 or 12
 
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