• To ALL forum users - As of late I have been getting quite a few private messages with questions about build ups here on the forum, or tech questions about your personal project. While I appreciate the interest, sending me a private message about these topics distracts from, and undermines the purpose of having a forum here. During the day I wear many hats as a small business owner-operator and I work tirelessly to provide the absolute best service possible to you, our valued customer. When I created this forum I rounded up some of the best minds I knew so that any tech question you might have could be asked and answered by either myself or one of my highly experienced moderators, this way the next time this same question is asked the answer can be easily found and utilized by the next IH enthusiast having the same question. This allows me the freedom to run the day to day operations of the business and minimize the impact to shipments and shop activities that these distractions can cause. It is of the up most importance for me to complete the daily tasks in order to best take care of you our customer, all the while providing you a forum to get the level advice and input you have come to expect and deserve from the premier IH shop in the country.

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    Jeff Ismail
    Owner/Operator

74 3/4 ton pickup project

Newguy1

New member
Hi, I’m new to the forum scene, this is my first time actually posting in a forum for questions - so hopefully I put this in the right category. Please correct me if I’m wrong.

my project
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What I know (which is not much): it’s a 1974 travelall 200 with a 392 v8. It’s been sitting for 16 years with the passenger side valve cover off
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My plan: I don’t want this thing to be pristine. I want to put it to work for hauling heavy stuff. Now I am new to these internationals as this truck was given to me. I have a flat bed to put on it when it’s running again and if we don’t think this engine is any good I have access to a fresh 392 block, but I’ve heard these motors are bullet proof so I really want to get this motor on a stand and see how bad it actually is. Before doing so I’m going to remove the heads, spray down the cylinders with marvel mystery oil and let it soak before I try to turn it to get to the converter bolts to pull unless suggested otherwise.

What I’ve done so far: I’ve removed the front clip, brake booster, heater box, wiring harness, etc. to get the motor exposed as much as possible and have been vacuuming with a small tube to get as much dirt out of the open valves as much as I can. I’ve removed the carb and thermostat housing and I’m ready to pull the intake. Right now I’m searching through these forums to find the torque sequence of the intake. I know I have to go in a crosshatch pattern, but I’m unsure if I go outside to in or inside to out and reverse it when I put it back in? Also I’m looking for a detailed description of removing the heads on this thing as I’ve never done it before but as you can see I’ve got nothing to lose. Lol

Sorry for the long post for a couple questions. just wanted to give you guys as much info as I can, because I’m sure many questions are yet to come.
 

Newguy1

New member
I went inside to out in a cross hatch pattern to remove the intake now I’m researching head removal. I know I need to keep everything in order to the T, remove the rocker arms, and push rods. I’m assuming I remove the head bolts in a crosshatch pattern working inside to out can anyone shed some light on this? Also my dad told me that not all motors will need a spring compresser to remove the keepers for the push rods. Is that the case or should I weld something up or buy something to compress the springs? Thanks again!
 

Zaedster

Future Owner of IH Parts America
I went inside to out in a cross hatch pattern to remove the intake now I’m researching head removal. I know I need to keep everything in order to the T, remove the rocker arms, and push rods. I’m assuming I remove the head bolts in a crosshatch pattern working inside to out can anyone shed some light on this? Also my dad told me that not all motors will need a spring compresser to remove the keepers for the push rods. Is that the case or should I weld something up or buy something to compress the springs? Thanks again!
Yes, you need to remove the head bolts in a particular pattern to prevent head warping. Seeing that your user name is "Newguy1", you would probably most definitely benefit from a service manual, as it has all the proper procedures on how to do any sort of service activity on the unit. https://www.ihpartsamerica.com/store/SLCTS-2303.html

For the spring compressor, I'm sure your Dad is right. You may not need a valve spring compressor in a Briggs and Stratton 2.5 H.P as the spring rate is way reduced compared to a full-size engine. Understanding that your head is going to be removed from the engine block, this compressor would be a good option: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...tWUTREEmLRingzxHkEeocqVbSgMeL3joaAiNbEALw_wcB

As with any used engine disassembly and reassembly, all parts and pieces must go exactly where they came from.
 

Newguy1

New member
Yes, you need to remove the head bolts in a particular pattern to prevent head warping. Seeing that your user name is "Newguy1", you would probably most definitely benefit from a service manual, as it has all the proper procedures on how to do any sort of service activity on the unit. https://www.ihpartsamerica.com/store/SLCTS-2303.html

For the spring compressor, I'm sure your Dad is right. You may not need a valve spring compressor in a Briggs and Stratton 2.5 H.P as the spring rate is way reduced compared to a full-size engine. Understanding that your head is going to be removed from the engine block, this compressor would be a good option: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...tWUTREEmLRingzxHkEeocqVbSgMeL3joaAiNbEALw_wcB

As with any used engine disassembly and reassembly, all parts and pieces must go exactly where they came from.
Thanks for the info
 

Scoutboy74

Moderator
Welcome to the forum. Just FYI, the Travelall is a full length wagon-style vehicle very similar to the Chevy/GMC Suburban. What you have is a 3/4 ton pickup, which IH designated as a 200 in model year 1974.
 

Scoutboy74

Moderator
To expound, Chrysler Torqueflite 727 in an IH specific aluminum housing to mate with the IH engine bolt pattern.
 

Newguy1

New member
Thank you guys for all the feed back. I’m still doing a bunch of research while I’m working on this thing so far I have the top end of the motor off I’ve soaked everything in oil and with the heads off I primed it (knowing I’ll have to do it again once put back together) the motor turned over smoothly while priming. Now before I put this back together can anyone shed some light on the improved cooling system I’m hearing about and How to identify if my block is a improved cooling block?
I’ll get some better pics if you need more to go off of.
 

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1975IH200

Member
IHC SV-8 392 - Improved Cooling engine:
The water tubes enter the BLOCK on the IC engine.
The water tubes enter the HEADS on the Non-IC engine.

Head gaskets are different and specific for each: IC and Non-IC.
Cylinder heads are different and specific for each: IC and Non-IC.

Only the 392 has the Improved Cooling, 266, 304 & 345 engines do not have improved cooling.

There is a sticky thread in the 'Gas Engine Tech' Forum on this subject.

Your engine is an Improved Cooling engine due to the location of the water tubes.
 

ihpartsjeff

Administrator & Owner
Staff member
Intake manifold gaskets are different as well on the I/C 392. The rear most coolant port is blocked off in the gasket to help change the coolant flow thru the heads.
 

Newguy1

New member
Thank you all for all the information once again

so far I cleaned the heads and through a bunch of research on this form I got them torqued down to spec.

can anyone give me a torque spec/ sequence on the rocker arms?
 

Newguy1

New member
Ok so this was all really just to see if this motor still had life in it before I put a bunch of money into it. That’s why I didn’t send the heads to get re surfaced or pull the motor or anything. just to clarify.

I have the motor put back together with a new carb ran to a boat tank sitting on the bumper just to see if it would fire.
After replacing the points, condenser, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, and coil. It magically fired right up! And to my surprise sounded pretty good for a motor that’s been sitting for so long. Except right before it fired up it cranked normally at first then made one slow rotation and a loud bang that sounded like something hit the oil pan and before I could take my hand off of the ignition it fired up. I let it run for 30 seconds or so before I killed it not knowing what that sound was I didn’t want to run it for to long.

Anyone think they know what that sound might of been? Can bearing? Obviously I won’t know until I pull the pan which leads me to my next question.

has anyone pulled the oil pan without pulling the motor?
 

Newguy1

New member
the oil pump hangs down to far and there’s not enough clearance between it and the big cross member underneath.

what’s your suggestion? Loosen motor mounts and support the motor from above? If I have to do that I might as well pull it completely.
 
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