'71 shackle hanger sleeve

Matt Main

Member
So, I have a question for everyone/anyone.
I am installing new bushings in my shackle hangers and springs and the install instructions for the bushings says to remove the old sleeve in the springs and shackle hanger. Springs are a bit easier because I can use a press to remove them. The ones on the frame are a bit more difficult. Im soaking them with sili-kroil rust pentrant, but I know this is going to make bloody knuckles :mad5:
so the question is, does anyone know good tips, tricks or tools to get these sleeves out of the shackle hanger on the frame? Thanks in advance! :gringrin:
 
Ah hah! Very nice.... The only sets like that I have seen are darn expensive. There is an hf store on my way from work (I thihnk...) I will definitely pick one of those up! Thanks again!
:gringrin:
 
Well, I bought that ball joint tool and the sleeves that are included are far too large in diameter. I attempted to use the threaded part with the "c-clamp" portion and a socket with zero success. I guess now its going to be up to an air chisel or something to try to slide those things out. They have enough rust to have aessentialy weld themselves to the shackle hanger. Back to the drawing board!
 
I am reading this thread and looking at my still black thumbnail.. I also used a ball joint removal tool but I found it helpful to strike the bushings out with a socket that fit the id of the shackle mount with a sledgehammer.
 
on mine I found the 13/16 socket is what worked best with the ball joint press.

I used the hf balljoint kit and the 13/16" socket as well, but you guys forgot to mention it still ain't easy! I had a 1/2" drive ratchet with a 18" pipe cheater and it still required a lot of effort. Heating would probably help, but I didn't have a torch then.
 
Hmmmm??? I usually just hose um down good with some pb blaster, let them sit for a hour or so, then hit them with the press and gun. They usually pop right out. Maybe it's just cause I gots mad skillz??? Seriously though, heat and pb blaster are the way to go.
 

Attachments

  • PB-ts_lg.jpg
    PB-ts_lg.jpg
    22.7 KB · Views: 328
hmmmm??? I usually just hose um down good with some pb blaster, let them sit for a hour or so, then hit them with the press and gun. They usually pop right out. Maybe it's just cause I gots mad skillz??? Seriously though, heat and pb blaster are the way to go.

I'm sure you have mad skillz, no question. I think in this case though it was the pb blaster and the gun!:gringrin:

I had deep creep, but no heat.
 
Anybody got any pictures on removing the bushing? Picture are worth a thousand words. Can you use a sawall or anything?
 
To remove the bushing, there are various methods. In the past I have used a drill to drill out the bushing material until I can remove the center crush sleeve. You can also use a c-clamp and larger diameter socket on the other side to press the rubber out. Honestly the best thing to use to remove the old rubber and the sleeve thats in the leaf and on the frame is fire. You will want to drill it out prior to that however to make it easier to press it out. Its okay to take out the leaf spring soak the sleeve in the leaf with some type of penetrating fluid ( I used silikroil ) and then try to press it out, that works. Its not so conveneint if you dont have an arbor or hydraulic press. I've found the easiest method is to soak the sleeve you want to remove in penetrating fluid and let it sit for a while. Then get a torch, and heat it up for a few minutes. Then let it cool. I did that on the frame mounts and the remaining leafs I have, and the sleeve practically falls out. The cooling rates of the metals are different and the heat also probably breaks down the built up rust and grime that is retaining the sleeve in the frame mount of spring.
 
I don't have pictures of this process unfortunately, but it's a dam nastee job!

There are different forms of spring and shackle bushings used on all ihc leaf-spring rides, depends upon what actual vehicle platform you are working with. Some use a "bonded" bushing where the inner and outer sleeves are vulcanized to the rubber isolator. Others use a "sliding" inner sleeve inserted into the isolator,..some have a two piece rubber (or urethane) insert, some are one piece...some have no outer steel sleeve. On some versions the non-moving spring eye uses a totally different type bushing set compared to the moving end.

But currently I do one of two procedures (and sometimes a mixture of both). And that definitely involves a reciprocating saw, many times a gas axe, and a c-clamp-type ball joint press. Each one is different, sometimes they literally fall out with a few whacks with a drift and hammer! Also depends if the bushing system is the one mounted in the spring eye, the actual shackle itself, or the frame-mounted spring hanger.

If accessible, I always just use the saw with a milwaukee "torch" blade that has had it's back ground down carefully to allow the blade to pass through the inner sleeve before beginning the cut. Then slice straight through the inner sleeve, what's left of the rubber (that will melt and make a big dam mess so don't do it in the living room!), and then through the outer sleeve (if present). If ya scratch up the spring eye it doesn't matter, just polish it out before installing the replacement bushing set.

Sometimes, I "burn" out the inner sleeve and rubber remnants with the torch, then use the saw to slice through the outer. Again...big freakin' mess that makes much smoke and dribblin' fire so be careful!

I used to take the "gentle" approach, but that just leads to increased levels of tooling and bigger hammers. By slicing horizontally through the entire bushing system from the beginning, then whether you use the hammer/drift, or the ball joint press with whatever kinda "adapter" ya can rig up, you don't waste time and muscle escalating the procedure!

On occasion, I go to a lotta trouble to tool up for the battle, then when I make an initial cut the whole dam bushing just jumps out! So always see if ya can whack it out with a hammer/drift first, sometimes the planets line up in yore favor!

This issue is not peculiar to just ihc-produced stuff with a leaf spring suspension, it pertains to all leaf-sprung vehicles.
 
Back
Top