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345 Won't Turn Over

RedLeader35

New member
I recently purchased a 1970 1300d with a 345 and the engine only has 7,500 original miles. It started relatively easily when I took possession of it, but it came with a can of starter fluid so obviously it had issues with hard starting before.

When I purchased it, the owner had filled the tank with 85 octane so I suspected that May have been the problem. I threw a can of bg44 in the fuel tank and was able to immediately start the motor after the mix took effect. Since then I filled up with 91 octane which seemed to help at first, but after sitting for a couple weeks the engine will crank and not turn over.

Starter fluid will cause a brief ignition which is not sustained and the motor will not run. I have tried this with the choke engaged and closed with the same results. I just replaced the spark plugs this morning and no dice. Any suggestions of what I should do next are welcome.

Thanks!
 

1975IH200

Member
Welcome.

1. The octane rating these IH engines use is regular pump gas. No need to pay extra for higher octane ratings than regular pump gas.

2. Bg44 - I don't know what that is or what it is supposed to do.

3. What ignition system do you have? Distributor mfr ? Points & condenser or electronic? A photo or two of your dizzy would help if you don't know.

4. IH sv-8 engines are timed off of #8 cylinder, not #1 as most other engines/mrfs. #8 is the right, rear cylinder.

5. Which carburetor do you have? Mfr., 2 barrel, 4 barrel, etc.

You May just need a proper tune-up with high quality parts.

Photos of you engine, carb, dizzy, truck, etc. Are helpful.
 

Scoutboy74

Moderator
Agree with scott on his points. Your photo links don't work. These are low compression engines. They don't need rocket fuel to light off. Now if your po made the mistake of putting ethanol85 in it, that would be something else entirely. They do need a fully charged battery, tight, clean and corrosion free wiring junctions/terminations, a fresh 87 octane fuel supply and strong spark at the right time. Cranking and turning over are two ways of referring to the same thing in these circles. The starter motor is involved. Firing/running involves engine revolutions driven by internal combustion rather than the starter.
 

RedLeader35

New member
agree with scott on his points. Your photo links don't work. These are low compression engines. They don't need rocket fuel to light off. Now if your po made the mistake of putting ethanol85 in it, that would be something else entirely. They do need a fully charged battery, tight, clean and corrosion free wiring junctions/terminations, a fresh 87 octane fuel supply and strong spark at the right time. Cranking and turning over are two ways of referring to the same thing in these circles. The starter motor is involved. Firing/running involves engine revolutions driven by internal combustion rather than the starter.
Thank you for your reply. I'll try posting photos differently...






 

Tiny Yokum

Member
I also have a 345 that won't turn over (sometimes).
It's in a 1979 SII Raylle edition. Tilt wheel, automatic.
Starts when it's dead cold, sitting over night (so far)
Starts most of the time when someone is driving it around running errands.
Occasionally, when we turn the key to start, nothing happens.
First time it got towed home, then the next morning it fired right up.
Second time it eventually started after numerous attempts,
drove it home and parked it. This morning it fired up like nothing happened.
The engine and trans are great. Freshly rebuilt, new carb.
Running on ethanol free 91 octane.
Any help is appreciated.
 
Last edited:
Jsounds like starter is over heating? Have you changed the fuel filter? Don't waste money on 91 this engine doesn't need it.
 

Scoutboy74

Moderator
Agree that the high test is $ down the drain, but that's an aside. Since it has an auto, this could be the neutral start switch in the trans. Have you tried moving the selector to neutral to see if that makes any difference? Another common culprit is the bulk head connector. Pull the engine side off and have a look-see at the contacts on both sides. Then have a look-see at the solenoid connections. Everything needs to be clean and tight. No corrosion, melting, or other obvious damage.
 

Tiny Yokum

Member
Thanks for the replies.
Not sure if this one has a starter heat shied, I will check.
Wires are all are tight. The ECM is original so replacing the 40 year old part is in the near future.
The connecting link from the key to the switch is a concern and I bought a remote switch to bypass the link.
The neutral switch has a new pigtail and the 727 trans rebuild has less than 1k miles on it.
This is my third 79 SII. Seems to be a typical problem on the 79s I've encountered.
One that does run right, all the time has a Mallory uni-lite distributor and a Pro-master coil.
I live in a state with E15 in our fuel, those wanting ethanol free must pay for EF 91 premium.
According to my research, Ethanol turns to water after about 3 months of sitting.
Trying to start after winter over can be quite the challenge on natually aspirated, old school V8s
since water settles to the bottom of the tank and will be the first thing hitting the cylinders.
I don't mind paying the extra $ to get better MPG, performance and reliable starting.
Thanks again,
Back to the drawing board.
 

Scoutboy74

Moderator
No doubt, ethanol blends are the devil:icon_evil: Prompt treatment with Marine Stabyl helps, but I get your motive.
So, are there two issues at play? One being no starter engagement on an intermittent basis, and the other being starter engages, but occasionally the engine won't always light off and run? I ask, because you mentioned the control module, which plays no role in starter engagement.
 

Scoutboy74

Moderator
Copy. ECM not part of the equation then. It may well be temperature related, but you might try moving the shifter the next time it happens just to rule that out for certain.
 
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