2300 Bowl Replacement

Last weekend I diddled with the Scout in my signature a little, tried to make sense of the silly timing numbers to no avail, and while I was in the process of "correcting" my distributor re-stab (back to the 20's!) during idle, I smelled raw fuel.

Sure enough, a steady two drips per second was witnessed coming from the area of my fuel inlet. Wondered if it might have been a loose inlet connection, so I loosened the flange nut and the receiving nut just to get a feel for where they "were" as far as torque goes. Both broke loose like they were properly torqued, so I'm assuming I cracked the casting on the bowl at some point and somehow didn't spot the fuel drip till now. The accel pump May be the leak point but, I haven't had my hands on the pump, and I have had my hands on the inlet fitting. Probably gonna try to remove the carb and verify this weekend, but I'm willing to bet I just put too much mustard on the big nut during installation.

The problem is that I can't find just the bowl anywhere, they want to sell me all sorts of other stuff I just don't need. I feel ashamed to have botched what was a perfectly fine IH original, and I can't think of any way to "repair" a crack if it ends up being one. Should I be looking for a boneyard bowl, or is there some source of modular Holley components I'm missing? Should I be calling up bowling green?

I'm assuming that if I can locate a bowl, it's just a simple swap-over of float & inlet assembly, plus the accel pump/setting the arm clearance? I've almost convinced myself that this little leak is enough to warrant a whole new 7448 with electric choke, but I know that's far from the truth. :d
 
Is this the carburetor that we did for you several months back?

If so, then taking care of this problem is...no problem!

However...I'm currently in residence at ihon/Grass Valley for the next two weeks and don't have my entire carb shop with me! I do have many items here now as we have some carb work to do here on-site. My supply of new and used bowls is up north though.

Don't sweat it, we can fix this easily, it just won't happen quickly unless I can kick up some 2300 cores here at ihon that I haven't already found.

Let us know which carb it is, then I'll take care of it for you. I have pics of that carb on the computer here now so I know what is needed.
 
This is the carburetor from ihon. Not so sure you guys need to take any action after this past weekend's inspection. I am not so sure of a bowl crack. I checked the inlet and the casting seems solid, though the parting line threw me off. I noticed the accelerator pump fasteners seemed "loose" so each got 1/4 turn or less to tighten. Bolted back to the manifold, no leaks while cranking with the starter/helper watching for the accel pump jets. Soon as I ran the motor (half hour later?) the leak was still there, maybe I need to inspect the flare fitting itself. The fitting was showing white corrosion internally.

Someone recommended a full swap from flared fittings to soft hose on a barbed fitting, which would facilitate a much-needed rerouting of the fuel line. Either way I'll be doing something about it this coming weekend.
 
After any freshly-rebuilt carb goes through several heat/cool cycles, all fasteners can stand to be snugged up.

I'll post a pic of your carb with a "barb" test fitting installed, I do that on all carbs I work with so I can run 'em. But I first have to install a new version of the photo manipulation software so stand by.

You can't do away with the flare fitting for the inlet...ya simply install a "flare-to-barb" swivel transition fitting that a 5/16" fuel hose will slip over and clamp it. I just did a 2300 conversion setup for a customer an hour ago doing that same thing as part of our bolt-on 2300 conversion kit. A new one will screw right into the brass transition fitting that is sealed to the bowl with a rubber-impregnated steel sealing washer so don't try and tighten the transition fitting any more or the threads will strip.

I do not like to use the "banjo"-type fuel inlet barbs on those bowls, that fitting is why the zinc bowl threads strip and the bowls then crack through the fitting boss.
 
This is the swivel flare adapter, 5/16" flare to 5/16" hose with a 90* elbow. You could also do it with a straight fitting and eliminate the swivel.
 

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