1966 Pickup: Transmission Stuck

Soft_Click

Soft_Click

Member
I tried to find some kind of write-up on this somewhere on these forums, but I couldn't find what I needed. If I'm posting a duplicate thread, sorry!

I'm working on restoring my 1966 International Pickup (304 V8 w/ 4 speed). I'm somewhat new to this kind of work, so I'm sure I'm missing something obvious here.

I am working on pulling the transmission to replace the clutch and all the other small parts between the motor and transmission. I've removed all the bolts around the transmission and pulled the starter out. I have the transmission on a transmission jack and the motor is supported by my floor jack. I was able to separate the transmission about an inch all the way around. If I lower the transmission jack, I can get two inches at the top. Not enough to remove the flywheel.

I think it's the input shaft getting stuck on the pilot bearing, maybe the angles I'm trying are causing binding? Another thought I had is maybe the clutch is engaged somehow?

I've spent hours under that truck pulling on that transmission, moving it side to side and up and down. I've also tried prying all around the bell housing. It won't budge.

I noticed on the bottom of the bell housing, there's a thin piece of metal that goes over some of the oil pan bolts, but those freed themselves without me removing the bolts. It just slipped over the top.

Happy to post pictures if that would be helpful!
IMG_3520.jpg
IMG_3521.jpg
IMG_3519.jpg
IMG_3518.jpg
 
Last edited:
1. You do not remove the flywheel until: a.) the transmission is physically removed from the vehicle, and b.) after the clutch assembly is unbolted from the flywheel, c.) it is not necessary to remove the starter unless it needs attention/repair.
2. Do not pry on the bell housing, it can be damaged by prying. If the trans does not move aft, something is blocking it or still connected. No need for pry bars and hammers here.
3. The "clutch is engaged somehow?" ...of course it is, that is normal. The clutch pressure plate springs hold the clutch disc engaged until you release the pressure plate springs pressure with the clutch pedal with your left foot.
Question: Do you have a hydraulically actuated clutch? The clutch pedal & its mechanism (either mechanical or hydraulic) only RELEASES the clutch, it engages as you release the clutch pedal.
4. Did you remove the shifter mechanism or at least the shift lever from the top of the transmission? Doing this will allow the transmission free-er movement aft. Approx. 8-10 inches aft.
5. The transmission input shaft is splined to the clutch disc, and you need to move the transmission further aft for the input shaft to clear the clutch disc.
6. Photos are usually useful and should always be supplied without us asking. Provide photos on the first post, then if more photos are needed, we will request them of specific areas or items in question.
 
Thank you for the info.

1. This makes sense to me. I got some advice from a mechanic about unbolting the clutch / flywheel to work around the stuck transmission. It didn't make sense to me, but what do I know?
2. Good to know, I was told prying wouldn't hurt anything. I won't pry anymore.
3. My clutch is hydraulically actuated, it's all disconnected now, so I can move the fork freely. I think the aft position disengages the clutch and the fore position engages it. Maybe that doesn't make a difference.
4. I removed the top hat + shifter, so yes and my input and output shafts are exposed now.
5. Moving the transmission aft is my whole challenge right now. I can go side to side, up and down, and probably forward, but I haven't tried putting it back.
6. Definitely lazy of me. I will go take some pictures and update the original post.
 
OK, this is your first time so it is a learning experience.
The first time I tried a clutch R&R (in '72) I failed and had no one to give me advice.
Ended up towing it to a shop.
I bought some paperback mechanics books at Sears & Roebuck and studied them.
The next time I was successful.
 
Updated original post.

This is my first time removing a transmission on my own. 6 moths ago I pulled the transmission off an '86 Nissan 300ZX helping a friend. I thought this would be easier than that!

I have the service manuals for this truck but I couldn't find removing the transmission in there. I'm sure I just missed it. I'm thinking it has to do with the angle of the transmission / motor, but I feel like I've tried all the angles.
 
Last edited:
OK, assuming this is a two-wheel drive truck?
Did you pull the rear drive shaft?
This transmission 9cast item) will weigh at least twice what that Nissan (aluminum) trans weighed.

One thing I do is place a jack under the front of the engine to jack the front up under the crankshaft pulley to cause the trans to drop down some at the rear. You may need to do this again to reinstall the trans.
Don't jack it up too far so the fan hits the radiator, just enough to clear the trans.

Also, you may be able to remove the cab trans cover from inside the cab to give you more room to access attaching hardware.

Also, just realized you are trying to remove the trans and bell housing as a unit. You should access the trans-to-bell housing bolts from inside the bell housing thru the access panel on the lower side of the bell housing.
You should remove the trans separately, then remove the bell housing.

You may need to bolt up the bell housing to the engine block first.
 
This is a two-wheel drive truck and I did remove the drive shaft (and replaced all the U-joints while it was out)
I noticed the weight, this sucker is crazy heavy. I've been lifting it up and down repeatedly, so I really know it haha.

Jacking up the front of the engine is a great idea. I'll try that next. Would I leave the support under the rear of the engine? I don't want to blow the mounts.

The photo taken of the exposed gear shafts was taken from inside the cab. That's all disassembled. Had to rip up the carpet I just glued down haha.

I think I may be not seeing the access panel due to the inch of grime built up on this thing. I can't imagine being able to get a wrench inside the bell housing and undo those bolts. The mechanic I spoke to on the phone yesterday recommended I separate the bell housing from inside the gearbox, but I must have misunderstood because the heads of those bolts are on the other side.

Is there some kind of panel on the bottom of the bell housing that removes? How can I get inside there?

Assuming I have that kind of panel, here's the plan:
Bolt the bell housing back up to the motor > Remove the lower panel > Unbolt the gearbox from the bell housing > Maybe be able to slide the input shaft out of the clutch > drop the gearbox > remove bell housing.

Am I understanding correctly?
 
In your pictures the flywheel cover is still installed. You need to take that off before the transmission will come off any further. When i spoke to you on the phone the other day, you didn't mention that this was not removed yet. I assumed you had removed it since it is one of the first things to take off. Scrape some of that gunk/grease and you will find four little 1/4" bolts (uses a 7/16" wrench/socket). Take those four bolts out, slip off the flywheel cover, and the rest should come right out.
 
Four little bolts!! I can’t tell you how grateful I am. Thank you!!

I couldn’t even see those bolts under the grime haha
 

Attachments

  • 1B484374-F128-4E70-948B-76B0B3B2CB2A.jpeg
    1B484374-F128-4E70-948B-76B0B3B2CB2A.jpeg
    3.2 MB · Views: 349
Now that I have everything pulled apart, I’m not sure my clutch even needed to be replaced. I’ll do it anyways now that it’s out. How does it look to you guys?

46F6B2D4-1504-4CDB-95B5-0C97CE8F326B.jpeg
7122CFE5-E948-4B25-8CD0-0409B9EF4894.jpeg
 
When I bought this truck, it wouldn’t even turn over. I got it driving but just barely. The clutch would engage all the way at the top of the pedal, then when I would accelerate, the motor would turn faster but there wasn’t any power going to the wheels. It felt like it was just slipping away.

I’m not so sure now
 
Your clutch looks good. While you have it apart, I would suggest installing one of these - CPT Clutch Linkage Improver Kit for 1969-73 IH Pickup, Travelette or Travelall

Then put it all back together. Now would be a good time to replace the mounts under the bellhousing - Transmission or Rear Engine Mount for 1957-75 IH Pickup or Travelall - Upper Lower Transmission Mount for 1957-75 IH Pickup or Travelall

Then adjust how much free play the clutch pedal has by adjusting at the improver kit you previously installed. If the pedal is adjusted too tight, the clutch will slip under load.
 
I assume your clutch pressure plate and flywheel are in good shape? I should have asked instead of assumed. If those as well look good(no cracks, heat hot spots, etc), check the pilot and throw-out bearings. If they spin freely, and the other parts check out good, then yes you can put it back together without wasting the money on a new clutch unless you want the piece of mind that all is new under the bellhousing.
 
They appear to be in good shape, no heat spots or cracking that I can tell. I was planning on resurfacing my flywheel just for the peace of mind. I also have a new throw out bearing and pilot bearing from you guys that I may install.

My existing throw out bearing spins freely and actually continues to spin on its own when I spin it. The new one I got (looks like NOS) hardly spins at all and is non-greaseable, so maybe the one I already have on there is even better? Sorry if it seems like I don't know what I'm doing, that's because I don't haha
 
The lower transmission mount just arrived and I’m not sure where it goes, I looked at the cross member and it probably can’t be these.

@ihpartsjeff You mentioned under the bell housing, but I don’t think I had a mount there?
Attached is my cross member.
 

Attachments

  • BF09BF9C-CF48-4956-A117-2BD0364ED37F.jpeg
    BF09BF9C-CF48-4956-A117-2BD0364ED37F.jpeg
    3 MB · Views: 323
Im trying to figure out how this clutch linkage improved kit and I’m not sure where it would go.
I have a hydraulic clutch line, so it’s like a slave cylinder running to the fork.

I’m thinking it may not be compatible with my ‘66.
 
My bad, That kit is not for a 'C' series truck. I should have looked at your member image and realized you were working on an earlier truck and not a 'D' series.
 
All good!
Any idea what could have been causing my clutch slipping? My last theory is there may have been air in the hydraulic line. I didn’t realize my clutch was hydraulic until I went to remove the transmission. Never bled it when I did the brakes.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top