1904 Carburator metering block

[Jazman1966]

I have a 1961 IH Scout. The carb was leaking and it was running ro.ugh when I got it so I pulled the carb and rebuilt it. Put it back together it fired right up but fuel was coming out the overflow on the top. Though the float might be stuck or bad (didn't replace at rebuild because it looked fine and didn't seem to have any fuel in it or pinholes, it is brass) in any event after doing to online research I noticed the metering block in the carb does not look like any of the metering blocks I have seen online as replacements. It stops short of the economizer. It fits fine in the carb but just doesn't seem right and I'm pretty sure there is no issue with the float. It's my guess that this is not the right metering block for this carb. Can anyone confirm this? I am posting a pic (float removed). Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Greg R]

That's an older style economizer, which incorporates the main metering system and power enrichment. The enrichment is activated with that spring/rod on the right, but the lever to depress the little pin in the end is missing. If the pin is still there and seated, you might get better mileage but no hurrahs for high loads or passing. If it is missing, you'll be guzzling fuel to no end. I do not know if the new style and old style are interchangeable, but my guess is they are. Finding one in good shape is practically a favor from the gods. You might check with Robert kenney here on the board. He has reconditioned some with titanium parts, though it is very tedious work and I don't know lately if he is still doing it. Here is a picture of what it is supposed to look like sans the homemade spacer to keep it closed. This picture is courtesy of george womack of terlingua. Tx.

 

[jeff campbell]

I have a 1961 IH Scout. The carb was leaking and it was running ro.ugh when I got it so I pulled the carb and rebuilt it. Put it back together it fired right up but fuel was coming out the overflow on the top. Though the float might be stuck or bad (didn't replace at rebuild because it looked fine and didn't seem to have any fuel in it or pinholes, it is brass) in any event after doing to online research I noticed the metering block in the carb does not look like any of the metering blocks I have seen online as replacements. It stops short of the economizer. It fits fine in the carb but just doesn't seem right and I'm pretty sure there is no issue with the float. It's my guess that this is not the right metering block for this carb. Can anyone confirm this? I am posting a pic (float removed). Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Your needle/seat wire-clip,looks like its in behind the bowl gasket,wedged ? Then look at the other pic how that 1 sits on the carb body. Jeff

 

[Jazman1966]

Greg. Thanks for the pic. Makes sense now. I have a source for the newer style metering block and for $12 its worth a try vs over $300 for a rebuild. @Jeff...thanks for the tip but I think its just an optical illusion since the float is out the needle just dropped and spun a bit. It looks normal when together but I will definately double check it! Thanks again for the help.

 

[Fins160]

Fyi, this is a closeup of the end of that metering block showing the correct pin and spring from the back

 

[Jazman1966]

Thanks all...finally have all the fuel issues sorted out (almost) still have a hesitation/stall right when I depress the accelerator. I'm assuming it is air leaking around the butterfly valve, but I have moved on to other problems (electrical) had to replace alternator and now looking for the correct voltage reg. (another forum I guess) thanks for all the help and look forward to getting this thing running!!!

 

[ojh]

thanks all...finally have all the fuel issues sorted out (almost) still have a hesitation/stall right when I depress the accelerator. I'm assuming it is air leaking around the butterfly valve, but I have moved on to other problems (electrical) had to replace alternator and now looking for the correct voltage reg. (another forum I guess) thanks for all the help and look forward to getting this thing running!!!

Your initial comment was that fuel was coming out the vent, as if the needle & seat weren't working.
What looks missing in your picture is the copper washer between the frame that hold the float assembly and the bowl housing. The inlet has a screw that comes in from the front and holds that frame, between the frame and the carb body (bowl) there should be a copper washer to seal the incoming fuel so that is all goes thru the needle & seat. If you don't get the copper washer in there the needle and seat will shut but fuel will still come into the bowl.
Stmble generally occur when the throttle blade is too far open and the transfer slot is overly exposed. This happens when the engine is getting too much fuel and the guy will crank open the throttle blades to let more air in order to get the engine to idle.