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Old 08-03-2017, 05:57 PM   #1
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Location: Livermore, CA
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Default Drip rail removal / repair

Has anyone cutout and replaced their rotten drip rails on their scout II hadtop? Or I was also thinking about just shaving them off? I am sure no one sells drip rails? Just looking some some suggestions or experiences. The did a quick search it turned up with nothing.
74 100 4x4 392/Auto/NP205 D60/14Bolt
72 Scout II 345/Auto/D20
2006 Scout....My dog.
2012 2500 6.7 CTD Mega Deleted by Dave Mathews
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Old 08-04-2017, 07:34 AM   #2
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Default Re: Drip rail removal / repair

While we're on the subject of drip rails, does anybody know if the Scout IIs originally came a little higher in the back than the front? Seems the back corners are always full of water when it rains or the Scout gets washed. Looks like the rails only drain out the front.
1975 Scout II healthy 258, Wide T19 , 4:1 D300 3:54s,
1972 Real clean stock Scout II P/S, P/B, 345, T18, 3:73s
1969 Mach I. Balanced ported 351W, 650 double pumper, Super T10, Detroit locker with 4.11s. Lowered with racing springs, bars, Konis etc.
(Don't worry about getting arrested when I drive the Scouts).
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Old 12-14-2017, 11:49 AM   #3
Greg R
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Default Re: Drip rail removal / repair

I'm late to the party. It's not a good idea to remove drip rails. They are usually where the top is welded to side panels and posts; and the main structural component of a roof line. That's where the car top carrier straps or clamps go, usually. 800s have the same drainage, always to the front. I can see why, as there's a lot of stress on the corners from riding uneven or eroded road beds. A curved lip and seam is about the strongest you can get.
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Old 12-14-2017, 12:34 PM   #4
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Default Re: Drip rail removal / repair

I would think that if the drip rails are rusted/rotten, the problems would go much deeper than that. Have you removed the interior panels and looked at the condition of the top from the inside? If I was going to try to save a top, I'd use a cutting wheel to remove the old drip panel, then sandblast well.

The rails down the sides are fairly straight so they would be easy to make with a sheet metal brake. The back one would need to be curved to match the top, which would not be to difficult to do.

You'll need a mig welder with .023 wire and gas sheild to weld the new rails on. This will be the most difficult part of the job.

Agreed about the structural functions of the rail. My top has cracked on both rear hatch corners and the passenger B pillar. This top came of a totaled '79 Scout so much of that damage may have occurred then. I'd check the spot welds while working on it otherwise you'll be listening to a lot of squeaks until the inevitable cracks appear.
1974 Scout II 345 T-19
1971 Travelette 392 T-36
1972 Loadstar 1700 dump truck 345 T-35
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