Click Here!

Go Back   IH PARTS AMERICA > Tech Forums > Axle Tech Questions
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Photo Gallery IH Store Home

Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 08-02-2019, 02:18 PM   #1
Junior Member
SSMinnow's Avatar
Join Date: May 2007
Member Number: 226
Posts: 23
Default Wheel stud.

It’s been years since I replace my rotors. When I did I had the studs pressed in. Now my studs are loose and fall out. They will torque down just fine, but when I install the wheel I have to start them by hand and pull them so they won’t just rotate.

I have read that maybe a bigger spline. But all the counter guys does is look at me and ask what year.

Can anyone give me a good part number to a wheel stud that will fit?
SSMinnow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2019, 03:24 PM   #2
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
Robert Kenney's Avatar
Join Date: Aug 2008
Member Number: 543
Location: So Cal
Posts: 3,419
Default Re: Wheel stud.

Have you verified the hole sizes you are pressing the studs into? I assume the studs are ribbed where they press into the hub.
These are usually defined by the hole and such. Dorman has a nice web sight and you can review all of the other studs that are in the range of yours.

When you remove one of the loose studs, have a look at the grooves the stud made in the hole. They should displace material as the stud goes in and that fills the groove between the ribs on the stud. Basically you end up with a fit that requires a heavy hammer to budge if at all.

If that fails to give you joy, Loctite has a locking compound for studs that will stop the movement.
Robert Kenney

“Don't lift until the fear of death over comes the fear of speed.” Author Unknown
Robert Kenney is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2019, 01:16 PM   #3
Senior Member
Hondo's Avatar
Join Date: May 2012
Member Number: 4714
Location: Fremont
Posts: 537
Default Re: Wheel stud.

Wondering if you are running aftermarket rims with 5/8 mounting holes instead of 1/2. If that's the case you should get some larger 5/8 studs, or do what I did, get some bronze shaft bushings, 1/2" ID 5/8" OD and cut them down so they are short enough not to hit the tapered end of the lug nuts, and install them over the 1/2 studs.
1975 Scout II healthy 258, Wide T19 , 4:1 D300 3:54s,
1972 Real clean stock Scout II P/S, P/B, 345, T18, 3:73s
1969 Mach I. Balanced ported 351W, 650 double pumper, Super T10, Detroit locker with 4.11s. Lowered with racing springs, bars, Konis etc.
(Don't worry about getting arrested when I drive the Scouts).
Hondo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2019, 10:21 AM   #4
Junior Member
SSMinnow's Avatar
Join Date: May 2007
Member Number: 226
Posts: 23
Default Re: Wheel stud.

I said bump it and just purchased a new hub.

When I got the Scout the front rotors were shot, pad were metal on metal. I had NAPA replace the rotors and they pressed the new studs in. That was 10+ years ago and less then 20k. First time I learned about the stud being loose was when I had Discount Tire do a tire rotation, at the time only one was loose, but it did torque down. If you pulled on the nut while turning I would catch and torque down.

The rims were purchased through a reputable 4x4 shop when I got new tires, needed larger rims for the rear brake upgrade. They are after market spoked steel rims, nothing fancy.

After reading I bet NAPA had the wrong part number and just went out of their book. With the new hub and stud from here I bet I will be ok. Funny part is the driver side is fine. It was just the passenger side.
SSMinnow is offline   Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

All times are GMT -8. The time now is 11:29 AM.