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Old 05-19-2010, 08:55 AM   #1
Bill USN-1
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Member Number: 7
Location: Oak Harbor, WA
Posts: 467
Exclamation FAQ-Initial System Setup

I know the first thing guys want to do when hooking up their fuel injection set up is to start it up and hear it run....
after you performed the voltage checks!!

There are a couple things that need to be done after the installation.
1. Timing- there are 2 ways to do this.
A. Disconnect the bypass wire and set timing to 0 at idle when warm. Procedure- warm up motor then turn off. Unplug bypass. Start motor. Set timing to 0. Turn off motor. Reconnect bypass. Unplug ECM to clear fault code 42 that will set with the bypass unplugged.
B. Leave the bypass connected and set timing to the value listed for your idle rpm and map setting at idle, based on your specific bcc-broadcast code. You can look up most bcc files in the attachment in the parts required FAQ. Procedure-start motor and warm up. Set timing to the value listed in the spark table.

2. Iac reset/min idle speed- this sets the throttle plate on the throttle body to a specific rpm. I recommend about 500 rpm for most engines. Procedures- go to sheet 7 of the pinout diagrams. At the top is the aldl connector. You need to put a jumper between pins a and b of the connector. These are pins a9(wht/blk) and a12 (blk/wht) on the ECM. This puts the ECM into aldl mode. Turn the key on (not start) and the iac should drive completely closed. You will normally hear a buzzing from the iac. If you have the winaldl up and running on your laptop, you should see the iac went from 145 to 0. Now unplug the iac connector. Turn the key off. Remove jumper. Start motor. If the idle is too low you May have to keep it running. On the front drivers side of the throttle body is the adjustment screw. It May be behind a silver plug. If so just use a nail or punch to poke it and remove it. Then use a #20 torx bit to adjust the idle speed to at least 100 rpm less then your warm idle speed. If 600 then set to 500 rpm. (idle speed is set by the idle table in the bcc) you are looking for the lowest consistant idle your motor will do. When set, turn off motor and reconnect the iac. I try to keep the iac count to at least 40 with the motor warm and idling but just make sure it does not go to 0 counts or the iac can't adjust the idle.
Now is also a good time to verify the iac is working properly. With the engine running and the iac disconnected there should be no air being sucked in the port above the iac. If there is then either the iac is bad or there is carbon built up in the port behind it.
With the iac reconnected and operating there should always be some suction and it increases as the rpm increases. Verified by the iac counts on the sensor page of winaldl.

3. Tps-throttle position sensor. With the idle set, you need to now set the tps. This need to be set to about .54v. I normally shoot for about .6v.
The tps is on the passengers side and will have 2 screws holding it on. The factory tps will not have much room in the holes for adjustments so I use a drill bit or file to elongate the holes as needed. To adjust, just loosen the screws and trist the tps. You can monitor the voltage on pin b of the connector with the key on or at pin c13 of the ECM. You can also see it on the sensors tab of winaldl!! Anything away from .54v will also show as a percent of throttle. Such as .2 percent or 1.7 percent...depending on how far from .54 you are. I try to keep the idle setting to within 1 percent.
This is also a good time to check your tps. Once it is set, just watch the voltage as you open the throttle. You should see a steady rise in voltage up to about 4.5-5v at wot-wide open throttle. If it jumps up and down or skips some then you May want to replace it.

4. Fuel pressure- the system calculates the fuel needed based on the initial settings for injector size at a specific pressure. If the pressure changes then the fuel calculations will be off. I recommend checking the feed and return line pressures at the very beginning. This can save a lot of time later. The pressure is less then 15psi so a simple cheap gauge is all that is needed. I picked up a hf fuel inj tester for $7 on sale. Comes with a t and a short rubber hose to install it.
The feed side pressure should be about 13psi and should not change with rpm or load. The return should be near 0psi.


If you get all these items done it will make the transition much smoother!!

Good luck.
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