1965 D1100 4x4 driver/project

[Gunfighter97]

Well, I've found out somethings on above post, more to come in a week or two on that. Anyways, who wants to talk lifter noise!? been reading into engine tech, seems like a mechanical version of my electrical spaghetti mess in that theres right around 10 wazillion causes and potential fixes for the problem. My problem is as follows: when I purchased the truck it didn't have this issue, it arrose a handfull of infrequent drives of various lengths after it sat in the local shop for 18 months give or take. It starts up with a noticable tick not real rapid, you can keep up with it tapping a finger not really even that fast. I developed what may have been an irrational fear of destroying my engine and since have not driven it on road and only ran it when I needed to. I had a frend who has worked with alot of engines look at it and he pinpointed it to cylinder #4 and #6 with an automotive stethoscope. I asked another even more experienced friend(previously mentioned when this guy tells me something I believe it without a doubt) he said to drain a quart of oil and add a quart of rislone, then drive it for an hour, then change oil. He also said I might take the cover off and make sure the valves aren't damaged or in need of adjustment. Well I took off the valve cover and boy-howdy are these valves big!(to be fair, the only ohv engine I've worked on was an inline 4 with about the same displacement as one cylinder of this truck) They also apear to be stamped steel with fittings staked in place. Any thoughts on what I should do/not do/look for? I pulled a quart of oil out today with a brake bleeder through the dip stick spout, have yet to put the rislone in, was just looking at the valve train scratching my head before I had to stop and furiously scrub oil off myself before an apointment. I read alot about people pulling the lifters out for cleaning, of course I've yet to get myself a service manual and am still a bit unfamiliar with the anatomy of/how to remove lifters from the 304. Oil btw reminded me of black coffey about the same consistency as reeeeally hot maple syrup(not real thin but not quite goop if that makes sence)

[Scoutboy74]

The valves aren't adjustable. The lifters can be easily plucked out of their bores with a telescoping magnet. The cam-riding surfaces should be examined for flatness. Any signs of dishing or cupping should be noted. Make sure they go back in the same hole they came out of.
If the oil looks as nasty a you describe, its way overdue for a change. Run something in the 15W-40 flavor. We've talked about Swepco and diesel rated oils, I think. Run a good quality oil filter, too. Not Fram junk. Get a mechanical oil pressure gauge...something with numbers on it hooked up that you can monitor while driving, even if only temporary. BE careful with the vinyl tubing that comes with most OP gauges. It is very fragile. If I'm keeping a wet gauge hooked up permanently, I always swap in copper tubing to replace the vinyl. Its a little spendy, but well worth the piece of mind. I wouldn't trust the vinyl for any longer than a testing interval to establish your base line pressures.
Of most interest is the hot OP readings. And I don't mean after just idling in your driveway for 15 minutes. It needs to be driven to get a good lather worked up. Note the initial, cold OP reading, which should be between 40 and 60 psi. Once good and hot, we like to see a baseline of at least 10 psi per every thousand engine revs...ie cruising at @ 2500 revs should see at least 25 steady psi on the gauge. Erratic pressure swings while holding a steady engine speed aren't good. At a hot idle, it will be normal for the gauge needle to drop very low, perhaps even slightly under 10 psi. As long as the needle promptly rises in response to increased throttle and climbs to at least 40 psi at full throttle...these engines are all in at about 4k/revs and holds steady to that minimum 10psi/per 1k/rev threshold at all points in between, I'd say you can rest easy and not let a little ticky-tack bother you too much.

[Gunfighter97]

See? Irrational... Thanks for that. Anyways, will be getting a wix filter, 10w40 oil (perhaps the deisel rated) with a zddp additive. I read some brand oils have an additive thats intended to mix with their own oil and people seem to have good enough results for aproved use in tractor engine... I know I said I would suck it up and get the expensive stuff but I found another part I really don't need but really want and it's the only one I could find so naturally I'm scraping together all the $ I can lay my formerly oil stained fingers on. I thought about adding a set of napa gauges on the bottom edge of the dash for analog oil pressure, voltage, and whatever else I thought I might need/want. I have an altimeter and manifold pressure gauge from an old crop duster I'm wanting to do something with as well. I will continue as planned, I have an upcoming pilgrimage to the IHPA HQ in grass valley so I will be getting some goodies to bring back and post about here, they seem cool, already gave me a price break on a part, just have to come dismantle it myself.
My list so far:
secret mystery part #1
Bellhousing covers
Side glass
Full engine gasket kit
Service manual (1962-1971)
Anything else I find that I dont have and can still afford
Also attached are pics of the new(to me) seat! Mounted to what may very well be the single most out of place part in the entire vehicle. Also valves and the old seat, does this look consistent with other added parts on this truck, ie d series 1200? If so I may have the worlds biggest $25 gift certificate for my shopping trip. hopefully it is IH, then I may atleast be able to get rid of it without having to SPEND money.

[Gunfighter97]

Just had another thought, In regards to a ramsey 8k pto winch, that I dont currently have a pto system installed for, I've been thinking about a conversion to either electric or hydraulic. To quote an earlier reply, "...killer amp draw loads like a winch...." Limits it for my preference atleast to hydraulic. Now, with a valve running into my cab, I've seen it done before (albeit with alot beefier units(like a AM general deuce and a half)) running a two directional pto winch off the power steering unit and a mounted hydraulic motor. Anybody know if this old d series unit has enough "umph" to do that? I'm guessing probably not considering it barely has enough to steer without stalling in a parking lot, allthough, that is idling and with a winch or accessory like that running, the throttle knob could be made use of just like it probably was with my original pto unit. I may not even need a valve in the cab, with some ingenuity I could set up a cable/knob system to a valve. My orriginal pto unit had a makeshift shift leaver added, however the original cable control was still there, took me a loong time to figure out what the heck it was for, unfortunately knob and cable mount long gone.

[Gunfighter97]

Ok, first off its late and I'm quasi delusional, but I just looked into the oil thread again.... That was a mistake... Am I correct in that 15w40 deisel rated DOES have the adequate zddp amount? Typo earlier whan I wrote 10w40, meant the 15w40, but do I not need the ZDDP with deisel rated oil?

[Robert Kenney]

None of the current diesel oils have enough. I dug through all of the available data sheets to see what amount they had. Unfortunately, in recent months they have reformulated the few that did in an effort to meet new standards.

[Gunfighter97]

Ok, thanks. I'll look for a 15w40 deisel rated brand I like with a matching brand additive.

[Scoutboy74]

Originally Posted by Robert Kenney

None of the current diesel oils have enough. I dug through all of the available data sheets to see what amount they had. Unfortunately, in recent months they have reformulated the few that did in an effort to meet new standards.

Robert, is this true of the Walmart Supertech also?

[Robert Kenney]

I looked into the major brands. The last was the 400LE. That was replaced with an emissions safe formula and renamed. We would have to look at the standards that is meets. That’s about all we can do unless the maker has a data sheet where they say the zinc/phos ppm. Otherwise it’s low zinc etc.

[Gunfighter97]

I may regret asking this, but since I plan on dropping the pan in the near future, how hard is it to change out the rear main seal? (No idea really whats involved(I hope not much ))

[Scoutboy74]

For one thing, the trans needs to be separated from the engine. Its a job that's best done with either the engine out or the trans out.

[Gunfighter97]

Eeek never mind. Problem for another day. I think it leaks but its very minor. Worst leaks seem to be pan gasket VC gaskets and oil filter housing. Ill reseal those when I change oil. What I will probably do is gather some parts together, and in the far and safely distant future pull the engine/tranny/t-case for reseal if not total rebuild, maybe even paint.

[Gunfighter97]

Completley off topic, but being an offroad rich crowd, anyone recon a devoted "hunting/fishing trip" thread would be welcome in chit chat? Or have I not found it yet? I have a knack for accumulating some fairly entertaining stories (as all hunters do) as well as scenic trail pics and offroad moments (like driving off a cliff while looking up hill at a doe(yes this happened to me as a passenger(I was on the downhill side))). Eventually my truck will be my hunting rig, my dad's Polaris Ranger is great at alot, but this truck sits sooooo much higher when you get into the heavy brush where them antlers hang out. Thoughts?

[Gunfighter97]

Holly $#!÷ I forgot how dadgum hair-raising this thing is to drive.... But it does drive Steering on the otherhand, well.... My gauges (fuel, oil, and heat) cut out and came back on a minute later, the only thing it could be is the little do-dad where gauge power goes in back of temp, ill see if I can find one at napa. Engine sounded very unhappy for being left and not moved for so long... Cleared up after a minute or so, valve tick got better but still there. Have a feeling I should just go ahead and borrow the other truck for my IHPA pilgrimage. Next I've GOT to fix this steering....... Woohoo.... I like adrenaline but dang.....

[Gunfighter97]

Well, lifter noise is getting better, been driving it to clean the local water ditch clean out box for a few days, seems to be settling down(either it is or I've developed nerves of steel). Was doing good but this just happened. Subtle leak, but exactly where I thought it would be, any idea what I might pay for another useable d line cross flow type rad?