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Old 08-31-2018, 06:19 AM   #16
mbiver
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Member Number: 9359
Posts: 17
Default Re: thermo vacuum switch

Thanks again. Thought I'd be smart and take your advice. Pulled the tank and hoses. Got a poly tank and related odds and ends on order from you now. Fuel neck filler looks decent but did have rust inside the bottom of the neck so took it to a local guy who cleans them out and coats them with fuel tank liner. I'd like to try and rebuild the carb, for now. Both as a learning experience and to try and keep it stock. But I'm not married to the thing or to keeping it totally stock, so if I can't get it just right, I'll definitely take your advice on the new carb as well. Since I have the tank off, thought I'd fix the wiring a little. Some of the wires to the taillights were literally falling apart and exposed. Others just cut from rubbing on the body. I'll start a new thread for that in the electrical section.
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1978 Scout II with 1977 345 engine
Four wheel drive Dana 44 Axle's, Dana 20 T-Case, Power Steering, Power Brakes (Disc/Drum), no A/C.
Manual trans, Borg Warner 3-speed w/floor shift.
Prestolite distributor with petronix.
Fuel System: New 19Gal. Poly tank/Sending unit from IHPartsAmerica, Nylon fuel line, relined original fuel neck filler tube, rebuilt Holley 2245 Carb.
Unknown non-oem modifications
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Old 10-03-2018, 07:36 AM   #17
mbiver
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Member Number: 9359
Posts: 17
Default Re: thermo vacuum switch

Got my 2245 carb all cleaned up and rebuilt. Does anyone know how many pounds of torque to use when mounting it back on the engine? I didnít see it in the service manual. Thanks!
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1978 Scout II with 1977 345 engine
Four wheel drive Dana 44 Axle's, Dana 20 T-Case, Power Steering, Power Brakes (Disc/Drum), no A/C.
Manual trans, Borg Warner 3-speed w/floor shift.
Prestolite distributor with petronix.
Fuel System: New 19Gal. Poly tank/Sending unit from IHPartsAmerica, Nylon fuel line, relined original fuel neck filler tube, rebuilt Holley 2245 Carb.
Unknown non-oem modifications
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Old 10-03-2018, 08:00 AM   #18
Scoutboy74
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Member Number: 453
Location: Daze Crick, Jefferson
Posts: 4,055
Default Re: thermo vacuum switch

Not many. I would be thinking more in terms of inches rather than pounds. Use an "educated elbow" method. Snug, but not too tight. You don't want to warp it or break it.
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Favorite hobby...Driving Salma Hayek in my Scout

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Old 10-05-2018, 06:40 AM   #19
mbiver
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Join Date: Aug 2018
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Posts: 17
Default Re: thermo vacuum switch

Thanks, @Scoutboy74. I just hand tightened and tried to be careful. Fired her up and no leaks at the base...Was a leak at the fuel inlet where I put an elbow adapter. Just had to tighten it, though. She runs A LOT better. Still not 100% but at least it will sit and idle without dying. The power valve piston was frozen...couldn't even turn it with a pliers (I was being very careful and also used a rag so I didn't scratch it). I dunked it in a can of carburetor cleaner for about a half hour and sprayed some more gumout down the vacuum port leading to it and then very very gently tapped straight down on the piston with the plastic end of my screwdriver...totally freed up. Power Valve had thick gunk underneath it as well...very messy. Anyway, thanks again!
__________________
1978 Scout II with 1977 345 engine
Four wheel drive Dana 44 Axle's, Dana 20 T-Case, Power Steering, Power Brakes (Disc/Drum), no A/C.
Manual trans, Borg Warner 3-speed w/floor shift.
Prestolite distributor with petronix.
Fuel System: New 19Gal. Poly tank/Sending unit from IHPartsAmerica, Nylon fuel line, relined original fuel neck filler tube, rebuilt Holley 2245 Carb.
Unknown non-oem modifications
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