I-4 and SV Engine Non-Oiling Rocker Assembly

[Michael Mayben]

Yore gittin' off too ez here dude!

Rtv should be banned from the planet or at least all of it shoved into owlgore's and bawnee fwank's pie holes. There has been more damage done to mechanical assemblies through the use of rtv than was ever caused by lack of lubrication!

The only critical location for the "oiler" rocker stand is the third from the rear on your four banger. All the other locations can get oiler stands and nothing will happen, the rocker shaft will simply be supported! Don't be concerned with that, we find all sorts of assembly variations regarding the stands, the only critical point is locating an oiler stand over the oil hole in the head and verifying that the base of the stand does not leak oil in operation.

[71mtnscout]

I'll tell ya one thing.............that last lifter is a pain in the a$$ to get out through the head!!. I aint out of the woods yet, will no more tomorrow when I tear into the lifters.

Besides I got a great helper!!

[Michael Mayben]

My helper is pretty good at mashin' the brake pedal for bleeding, but she draws the line at pullin' lifters!

Yep, that rearmost lifter can be difficult, especially when it's bad stuck in the bore!

But at least the hood on baby scouts peels back!

My rig is running a 196 witha deck height about 1/4" taller than a 152. Just getting the valve cover off without pulling the engine is my problem!

But then ya ain't tried to get that top bolt on the starter out and back in yet dude...or get a wrench on those bellhousing bolts on either side when it's motor-pullin' time! You can always tell if an s80 has had the motor out 'cause it's got a 1" hole drilled in the bulkhead on each side to allow a socket onna long extension to access those bolt positions. Then a nice rubber plug will fill the hole after the fact. If there are no holes, I bet someone simply did not re-install the bolts!

[71mtnscout]

Ok..............lifters are done! They are a bit of a pain to take apart and clean I might add. 1st one was pretty good, the second one shot the retaining clip acrossed the kitchen. It took me 15 minutes to find it too! Tomorrow she'll go back together and get an oil and filter change before firing with a tad of marvel. I bought valvoline 20-50.....is that ok in these engines or is there something better?

[RobertC]

Originally Posted by 71mtnscout

I bought valvoline 20-50.....is that ok in these engines or is there something better?

General consensus is that the new "oil standards" - sm - do not contain enough zinc / additives for old motors.

Need to use sl oil or add the additives.

Ihon carries swepco oil -- which is a good oil for old engines.

More commentary on the subject if you read threads in the oil tech forum here.

[Scoutboy74]

Actually sm has even less of the precious zinc/phospho than does sl. The higher the letter next to the 's', the newer the blend, and consequently less z/p in the mix. Sm is pretty much all that's available on the shelves any more. Ihon sells swepco brand oil which has not lowered their percentage of z/p. There is also a separate tech section dedicated to swepco oil and dick f. The moderator of that section is quite a resource of knowledge regarding vehicle lubricants. Well worth taking a look at for more info on the subject of motor oils and older engines.

[RobertC]

Boy, I am dumazz... edited my previous post

[71mtnscout]

Well it dont matter anywhooo. Got her all back together today and now that the valvetrain is workin like its sposed to I can hear a piston slap at an idle and low rpm's. New this was gettin to easy, it runs ok, but is gunna need a new engine before winter sets in. I guess old age got to her. Made a deal today for a 62 I had my eye on.............the 152 in it is in purdy good shape, quite and everythang. Never hurts to have extra parts anyhow.

[ornelles]

Just want to pose an idea for discussion, I have lots of 9 stand rocker shafts, all showing alot of wear from the welded type rockers, would it be possible to flip them over, use boat style rockers with the 9 stands to move the wear area to the other side? Is this feasable or am I just putting off a major problem for a few miles.....
Thanks,
steve

[Michael Mayben]

Flipping a nine stand/welded rocker shaft over and using with boat rockers is feasible. Look at post #58 in this thread and you will see one.

That means the witness marks on the nine stand rocker will be mounted down. The plugs should also be removed and the rocker shaft cleaned internally and then re-plugged.

You will also have to use the ball/ball pushrods that work only with boat rockers. The rockers and spacers are installed in the same order as the original welded rockers, no spacer springs will be used if using nine rocker stands.

Boat rockers are a totally sloppy fit on the rocker shaft, not a snug "bushing" fit like the welded rockers. The bearing point against the shaft are only those two distinct wear pads on either side of the oil hole.

[tsm1mt]

Originally Posted by pyro3256

do you use the nylon pellet bolts? If so where do you get the new nylon from? How much for some bolts? The washers apear to be oem. But bolts are just standard hardware. They are correct length @ 3 1/4" from bottom of head to tip of threads.
With a 1/8" thick washer. I have 5 stands per head so need 10 total. Thanks

You need to make sure the 5/16" washers are "narrow"/small od. The regular gr8 washers I bought from the hardware store are too large and run the risk of catching the rocker arm.

Be careful.

Also, from memory, the 9-stand rockers used gr5 bolts, the 5 stand used gr8, and I thought the torque specs were different between the two.

That said, I just pulled gr8 bolts from a 9-stand assembly in my shed, so I'm likely wrong on that front. :d

[outlaw47]

Hi all I am in the middle of rebuilding my 152 out of a 63 Scout 80 and I tore down my rocker assembly and found a perfect example of a shot valve train I am wondering if anyone knows where to get a new rocker arm shaft from?? Also during my rebuild process the storage device for my lifters was knocked down (dog) and now I have no idea which lifter came from which hole. Do I have to replace them or is there someway to reuse them?

[Robert Kenney]

In every case I have seen with an old high mileage sv/4 banger the cam and lifters are past their usable life.
If you mix up the lifter location even on a low mileage cam and lifter set the chances that they will not mate well are high. The metal from the bad and rapid wear condition can damage the entire engine.
I recommend renewing both the cam and lifters. If you can detect any lifter cupping at all the set is done and cam needs to be reground. Only if the can is close to new would I recommend only replacing the lifters. Then going through the standard new cam break in procedure.

If you would like you could post some clear close up images of the cam and lifters we could give you a prognosis.

As for the replacement rocker shaft, 9 stand shafts are no longer availible but call IH Parts America Monday morning and see if the remanufactured assemblies are on the shelf. If you have bad shafts you will need rockers also.

[outlaw47]

I just finished rebuilding my 152 and I go to prime the oil system and I have pressure (40 psi) but no oil to the cylinder head I removed the rocker arm and shot compressed air down the oil passage after a second I can hear air in the crankcase then if I prime I get oil out of the head for a second and then it stops?? I think there is something blocking the oil passage between the head and cam bearing unless anyone else has any ideas?? Is there anyway to clean the passage without removing the head or tearing down the engine?

It is also worth mentioning that I tore down the rocker arm shaft and cleaned it per the instructions in this thread
.

[Dealbreaker74]

Dig through Robert kenney's posts from the last few months. He recently posted a drawing depicting the oil flow path you need to see. The associated threads explain it thoroughly.
Good luck. Let us know how you do.