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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Member Number: 201
Location: Cheshire, OryGUN
Posts: 44
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![]() Sorry if this is in the forums somewhere. If it is I couldn't find it in any section.
What is the best way to replace the body bushings with only a hi lift jack? I am afraid that I will tweak the body if I do it wrong. Do you lift and replace each corner individually, a side at a time, whole body at once? Thanks for your help in advance.
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_____________________________ Heath 1972 Scout II, 304/727 auto/2wd/ 1974 Scout II 345 "Rusty", parts rig 345 for sale/trade |
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#2 |
Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Member Number: 665
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 50
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![]() I used a floor jack and 4x4s. To replace the back mounts I left the front mounts bolted but loose, and disconnect the rest, jacked up the back to clear and replaced. Tightened the back,then jacked up the front, left the centers loose until front and back were in. Shade tree but it worked.
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Member Number: 904
Location: Live Oak CA
Posts: 466
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![]() I loosened all the body mount bolts… or took the nuts off. Then I lifted the back, front and each side…one at a time. I used a floor jack and a long board.
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~Andy KJ6IYM 1979 Scout II, 304, 727, 3.73, 31s, Spartan locker rear, Powr-Lok front, Hydraulic Brake Booster, Custom bumpers |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Member Number: 917
Location: Richmond, CA
Posts: 1,763
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![]() Stay away from using the hi-lift jack for replacing those bushings. It could be done that way - but not safely in my opinion. You would be better off with a floor jack like what others have posted.
Loosen all eight body mount bolts but don't remove. Then pick one side of vehicle - passenger side or driver's side. Then using floor jack and some 2x4 wood (so ya don't warp the floor board in Scout) and take out 4 bolts on one side (let's say the driver side) from front to back and lift that side of body off the frame. Then remove the old bushings and install new bushings. There maybe a steel sleeve that ya might have to cut off in order to completely remove old bushing. Once you replace the four bushings on that one side of vehicle, I would recomend replacing the bolts with new ones too while you're at it. Then move onto the other side and do the same thing. I replaced the body bushings in 2 scouts already. And I'm about to do my third one soon. But this time I am making one inch body spacers. I posted pics on the last page in my build thread
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The fleet 73 Scout II - 73 Beast SOA, Shackle Reversal. Several things being re-worked through out. 72 Scout II - Ole Yeller - Finally rolling around town. 74 Scout II - Barrel Rolled - Rest in peace 72 Scout II = SOLD 51 Studebaker pickup - A non running project. Slowly in the works |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Member Number: 1682
Location: Kelseyville, CA
Posts: 214
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![]() I just did mine the same way that scooter did except I used soapy water and soaked the bushings. That way they were pretty easy to remove. I used a large screw driver to pry the bushings out between the body and frame mount.
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2015 RAM 2500 Heavy Duty Crew Cab Long Bed Laramie Diesel, 2002 Wildwood 30 ft Fifth Wheel, 1974 Scout II, 345, 727, Dana 20, Dana 30 front w/discs and Dana 44 rear. |
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Member Number: 1874
Location: Leesburg, va
Age: 53
Posts: 141
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![]() More info here from when I did mine: http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com...ing-bolts.html
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Member Number: 3742
Location: Northern New California
Posts: 1,606
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![]() It's been a long time, but I did mine pretty much like scooter does. One side at a time with all the bolts loose.
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#8 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Member Number: 5
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 1,309
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![]() Quote:
I did mine this way too, but I had to cut off the nuts/bolts as they were not coming loose. I soaked them over night with liquid wrench and still no go. I used a sawsall and then a cutoff wheel, then went to the torch for the rest ![]() No worries about the body bending they are tough.
__________________
73 Scout II. 345/727 with ORD Magnum range box to NP205. Dana 60/ 14 bolt. 37" Pit bull tire |
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Member Number: 1874
Location: Leesburg, va
Age: 53
Posts: 141
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![]() They were tough when they were new
![]() 30+ years of deterioration May leave your Scout in a slightly less tough state. Search these forums - you'll find plenty of folks who had door alignment issues because the body mount under the door rusted out. Clearly, those tubs sagged a little. Before I replaced my body mounts, my radiator was fine. Afterwards, it leaked. It's possible these events were unrelated, but I think they were. Support the lift well (long 2x4), and don't lift any higher than you need to. |
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Member Number: 3742
Location: Northern New California
Posts: 1,606
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![]() Your right, us California folks don't really know what rust is. But if that's the case a lot more than the body mounts needs to be replaced.
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Member Number: 1337
Location: Milpitas, CA
Posts: 377
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![]() Good comment on the radiator. It May make sense to remove the two bolts on one side or the other to remove stress on the radiator before lifting the body.
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1975 Scout II 304 4-speed |
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#12 |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Member Number: 201
Location: Cheshire, OryGUN
Posts: 44
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![]() I wanna thank all of you for your input. From what I read so far, I am going to lift a side at a time-driver/passenger. I will take a long 2x4 and place it under there, running front to back, and use a floor jack to lift, after all bolts are loosened.
I assume I will need to place the long board close to or under the rockers, as the body mount plates don't leave to much room. Once again, thanks all! Oh, and thanks for the radiator notice.
__________________
_____________________________ Heath 1972 Scout II, 304/727 auto/2wd/ 1974 Scout II 345 "Rusty", parts rig 345 for sale/trade |
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Member Number: 3742
Location: Northern New California
Posts: 1,606
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![]() You might want to loosen your radiator or fan shroud before lifting. Just to be safe.
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Member Number: 917
Location: Richmond, CA
Posts: 1,763
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![]() Btw - since I'm getting ready to replace the bushings in my 73 beast, I am currently making 1" body lift spacers. The current 2" spacers that one of the previous owners installed, they ended up using 2" pipe. The pipe further degraded the oem bushings. And I'm not going to install new bushings with p.o. Virus
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__________________
The fleet 73 Scout II - 73 Beast SOA, Shackle Reversal. Several things being re-worked through out. 72 Scout II - Ole Yeller - Finally rolling around town. 74 Scout II - Barrel Rolled - Rest in peace 72 Scout II = SOLD 51 Studebaker pickup - A non running project. Slowly in the works |
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#15 | |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Member Number: 201
Location: Cheshire, OryGUN
Posts: 44
|
![]() Quote:
__________________
_____________________________ Heath 1972 Scout II, 304/727 auto/2wd/ 1974 Scout II 345 "Rusty", parts rig 345 for sale/trade |
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body bushing, replace |
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