What is the best way to replace scout ll body bushings?

[Heath M]

Sorry if this is in the forums somewhere. If it is I couldn't find it in any section.

What is the best way to replace the body bushings with only a hi lift jack? I am afraid that I will tweak the body if I do it wrong.

Do you lift and replace each corner individually, a side at a time, whole body at once?

Thanks for your help in advance.

[dennis hooper]

I used a floor jack and 4x4s. To replace the back mounts I left the front mounts bolted but loose, and disconnect the rest, jacked up the back to clear and replaced. Tightened the back,then jacked up the front, left the centers loose until front and back were in. Shade tree but it worked.

[Scout-It-Out]

I loosened all the body mount bolts… or took the nuts off. Then I lifted the back, front and each side…one at a time. I used a floor jack and a long board.

[Scooter]

Stay away from using the hi-lift jack for replacing those bushings. It could be done that way - but not safely in my opinion. You would be better off with a floor jack like what others have posted.

Loosen all eight body mount bolts but don't remove. Then pick one side of vehicle - passenger side or driver's side. Then using floor jack and some 2x4 wood (so ya don't warp the floor board in Scout) and take out 4 bolts on one side (let's say the driver side) from front to back and lift that side of body off the frame. Then remove the old bushings and install new bushings. There maybe a steel sleeve that ya might have to cut off in order to completely remove old bushing. Once you replace the four bushings on that one side of vehicle, I would recomend replacing the bolts with new ones too while you're at it. Then move onto the other side and do the same thing.

I replaced the body bushings in 2 scouts already. And I'm about to do my third one soon. But this time I am making one inch body spacers. I posted pics on the last page in my build thread

[Danny Phillips]

I just did mine the same way that scooter did except I used soapy water and soaked the bushings. That way they were pretty easy to remove. I used a large screw driver to pry the bushings out between the body and frame mount.

[jmalloy]

More info here from when I did mine: http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com...ing-bolts.html

[FDChappie]

It's been a long time, but I did mine pretty much like scooter does. One side at a time with all the bolts loose.

[Craig]

Originally Posted by Scout-it-out

I loosened all the body mount bolts… or took the nuts off. Then I lifted the back, front and each side…one at a time. I used a floor jack and a long board.

I did mine this way too, but I had to cut off the nuts/bolts as they were not coming loose. I soaked them over night with liquid wrench and still no go. I used a sawsall and then a cutoff wheel, then went to the torch for the rest just remove all 8 nuts first.

No worries about the body bending they are tough.

[jmalloy]

They were tough when they were new

30+ years of deterioration May leave your Scout in a slightly less tough state. Search these forums - you'll find plenty of folks who had door alignment issues because the body mount under the door rusted out. Clearly, those tubs sagged a little.

Before I replaced my body mounts, my radiator was fine. Afterwards, it leaked. It's possible these events were unrelated, but I think they were. Support the lift well (long 2x4), and don't lift any higher than you need to.

[FDChappie]

Your right, us California folks don't really know what rust is. But if that's the case a lot more than the body mounts needs to be replaced.

[dkminors]

Good comment on the radiator. It May make sense to remove the two bolts on one side or the other to remove stress on the radiator before lifting the body.

[Heath M]

I wanna thank all of you for your input. From what I read so far, I am going to lift a side at a time-driver/passenger. I will take a long 2x4 and place it under there, running front to back, and use a floor jack to lift, after all bolts are loosened.

I assume I will need to place the long board close to or under the rockers, as the body mount plates don't leave to much room.

Once again, thanks all!

Oh, and thanks for the radiator notice.

[FDChappie]

You might want to loosen your radiator or fan shroud before lifting. Just to be safe.

[Scooter]

Btw - since I'm getting ready to replace the bushings in my 73 beast, I am currently making 1" body lift spacers. The current 2" spacers that one of the previous owners installed, they ended up using 2" pipe. The pipe further degraded the oem bushings. And I'm not going to install new bushings with p.o. Virus

[Heath M]

Originally Posted by scooter

btw - since I'm getting ready to replace the bushings in my 73 beast, I am currently making 1" body lift spacers. The current 2" spacers that one of the previous owners installed, they ended up using 2" pipe. The pipe further degraded the oem bushings. And I'm not going to install new bushings with p.o. Virus

I knowthis May sound stupid, but I rather sound stupid then do it wrong. In the picture you attached, there is the more coned shape bushing. My question is if the taper goes away from the body mount (towards the ground) or up? Logically, at least to me, it seems the wider side would press against the body mount and tapered side away.