1964 Travelall and 1967 Travelette All Wheel Drive's

[Robert Kenney]

Cool! Nice condition too. Glad to see it is the same as mine,.. well material is the same..

Bb you mentioned the frames being different.. What it the "c" section height under the cab on your longbed travelette?

So the bed is off and ready for pickup. Lifted it off easy. Evidence attached.

[Robert Kenney]

Accomplishments for the long weekend...
1) bed off as stated above.
2) existing bed mounting brackets, drilled out the rivets and removed the mounts.
3) removed the bumper that was welded to the truck frame. Slit through the welds with a 4" ra grinder, and didn't touch the frame.
4) took all pertinent measurments using the back of the cab or front of the bed as the datum. Need to move the mounting locations 1-1/2 inches aft to have a 1-1/2 " bed to cab gap. Best I can tell it will work fine.
5) layed out all of the new hole locations.

Drilling begins next weekend..

[Robert Kenney]

Photos wanted of 64-68 pickup oem rear bumper

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I need to buy the correct rear bumper for my 68 t-ette.
But first I need to know what exactly that is.. Some had a stamped chromed steel bumper and others had a step bumper with a diamond plate top and hole for a ball. I've seen to many to say what is oem and what is not..

Anyone who has a known original factory supplied rear bumper they could photograph and post for me, I'd be very thankful.
Or one they would sell. I can only buy local southern California.

[Big Banger]

This is the factory rear step bumper for the campermobile, see the cut-out for the factory camper electrical connector on the left of the license plate that is unique to the campermobile.

[Big Banger]

This is a common rear step bumper that I have found on the 67-68 pickups, all of ones that I have found are extendable.

[Big Banger]

This bumper is off a 1974 IH camper special, I modified it to fit this 67 pickup.

[Robert Kenney]

Thank you for the pix. Now to see if anyone has one...

[overdrivesteve]

Hi,
are all 60's pick-up bed rear bumpers supposed to be diamond plate step bumpers? My truck came with a formed rear bumper similar to the front bumper except it has a dip in the center where you could mount a tow ball. I'll try to post a picture this weekend.
Steve

[Robert Kenney]

Steve I have seen a couple with a rear bumper similer to what you would see on a Travelall.
Here is one example I found in the I-net.

[Rob Gojkovich]

My 63 t-ette is the same as the third big banger one, but I also have a bumper from a 68 t-ette that is about 5" thick all diamond plate and wraps around to the wheel well.

[Robert Kenney]

Rob, is the wrap around one factory? Could you post a photo of it?

[Rob Gojkovich]

Robert, it's cut to fit the body with a rubber seal, but I don't think factory bumpers were diamond plate. I'll try to get a picture out tomorrow.

[Robert Kenney]

Installing the mounts was a fairly elaborate process.
The factory hole diameter for the mounts and rivets was .402.
I intended to use 7/16 an bolts and metal locking nuts. This required the mount holes to be up sized to 7/16 (.4375). For best shear load capability of the assembly the holes would have to be reamed for a close tolerance fit of .001 bolt to hole fit.

1)I first bored the mount holes to .430 and then reamed them up to 7/16 in two stages .434 and .4375 on the mill.

2) I drilled the top frame mounting hole and finish reamed it to .7/16 in s steps.

3) bolted the mount in place and made sire the location was spot on.

4) transfer punched the lower hole location through the mount then drilled and reamed the lower hole through the mount. Repeated the process 3 more times.

5) re drilled the 4 rear mount holes ( 1-1/2" back) and removed the unneeded frame extension for mounting the service bed..

I made sure all holes were clean and burr free. Installed the mounts and torqued the bolts to 45 ft/lb. This is the high spec found in the faa ac 43.13 book for the an bolt and nut used.

The truck leans left and I found a spring spacer above the right rear spring. It's probably to level the truck when the camper was on it. I don't need it now. I might add one to the left for a bit more lift and do a similar thing to the front.

Next to test fit the bed and determine if any pad height correction is needed for correct lines and reveals. I will be installing 1/4" rubber pads at each location like the factory. The front two mount pairs get a spring arrangement probably to allow movement while flexing so that will be duplicated as well.

Hardware used:
an363-720 nut
an7-7a bolt undrilled (7/16 grip)
an7-10a bolt undrilled (1/2 grip)
an960-716 washer to achieve proper nut engagement and prevent bottoming on the shank.

[jeff campbell]

Here's 1 of them t'all bumpers on my 73-1200, Jeff

[Robert Kenney]

Last weekend my plan was to remove the drive line in order to replace the center support bearing, j-joints and the rear transfer case out put seal. But to my chagrin, upon splitting the yoke to replace the bearing I found that the male spline was twisted 10 degrees.
no fractures were visible but I was not going to put it back. So I took it to my favorite drive shaft specialist and had the whole thing rebuilt and balanced.

I got it back and installed it yesterday. He told me that the short shaft was bent of assembled out of true. That would attribute to the vibration at high way speeds. Nice and smooth now and the leak is gone from the new seal but the front is leaking. Guess I'll replace that today.