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Old 07-01-2019, 06:47 AM   #16
Scoutboy74
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Member Number: 453
Location: Daze Crick, Jefferson
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Default Re: FUEL AND AMP GAUGE

You had to take a wrench and undue two nuts from the back of that gauge. Each one of the pegs had a certain number of wires attached to it. Maybe one had three and the other had five. Doesn't matter how many. Before you pulled them off, they were all bridged together through that gauge, until it failed. So it just stands to reason if you're going to bypass the gauge, that no matter what the wire count is, be it 2, 3, 8, or 10, that every single one of them will need to be combined and insulated against metal contact. The ignition switch, the fuse block and the headlight switch all get their power from that junction. So that's three of the eight wires. One comes from the battery and one goes to the alternator. Now we're at five. Scott tried to help you in good faith. Maybe he forgot just how many wires were involved at that junction, but as I just got done explaining above, the count doesn't matter. One thing he didn't tell you to do was add a random ground wire to the mix and build yourself an onboard arc welder in the process. And considering how much I had to argue with you over the fuel gauge thing, which you probably still aren't convinced about...nah, I'm thinking maybe you might be one of these young, know it alls that can't hardly be told anything.
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