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Old 11-07-2018, 07:39 AM   #16
Gunfighter97
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Default Re: Sv 304 Water Pump Inspection How To

Ok, massively new plan... Clr flush and wait for pay, remove t-case/tranny/rebuild both, fix block drains/new plugs in the whole motor. While I'm doing all that, I will throw a new rear main seal on, and add a reverse light circuit, anything else I should do while in there? Im not too concerned about work room on the engine because of the body lift, makes it nice and roomy, I can see the back of the tranny top plate from under the hood lol
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Old 11-10-2018, 02:02 PM   #17
Greg R
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Default Re: Sv 304 Water Pump Inspection How To

Here's an idea you might like. I did a flush on my rig last summer. The problem I have is what do I do with all the waste water. My water comes from a well and I want absolutely NO chance of ANY contamination; so off to the recycler goes the oil and glycol. I came up with a filter solution. I bought a 3M Filtrete whole house water filter housing with spare cartridges for 10 micron filtering. With a couple of feet of heater hose and barb connections, I hooked it up to the heater circuit supply coming off the block under the Tstat housing. I figured with about 4 gallons in the system and the pump rated at 80 gpm @ 4,000 RPM, a full charge should cycle through the filter in a small amount of time. The filter cartridge is big enough for a couple of jobs, or maybe one for as severe as yours is.

Now before someone pipes up that the filter housing is only rated for 140*F, remember that's at 80 PSI . I'm doing this at 0 pressure with the rad cap off, and PVC ain't gonna melt at 180 or 200*. The cartridge is cotton media, so no problem there either.


Sure enough, even after a moderate flush and a refill with new distilled water and fresh anti-freeze, the coolant was still very murky. After about 25-30 minutes at fast idle of 2,000 RPM with the filter in, the coolant cleared right up like it was from the factory. All in all, I only lost maybe a pint of coolant in the filter housing. I think it saved a lot waste to dispose and time.
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Old 11-10-2018, 03:00 PM   #18
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Default Re: Sv 304 Water Pump Inspection How To

That's a good idea. I too recycle the spent antifreeze. But I have an Oreily's down the road so its pretty convenient. Your idea reminds me of my mechanic buddy and the coolant filters they use on the big cranes he works on. I have a 66 Nova I'm working on that could use a flush. I'm thinking of giving this a try once its running.
BTW, Gunfighter, you can use tap water for the flush. The de-ionized water will help keep future rust at bay, so try to completely drain the block before you refill it with the good mix.
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Old 11-10-2018, 03:41 PM   #19
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Default Re: Sv 304 Water Pump Inspection How To

Dealbreaker, will do. Once the rust is thoroughly eliminated I will rinse again, as I will have to drill/tap the pass block drain. I also recycle the waste,

Greg R I'm having trouble visualizing what you're explaining. I know (i think) the filter you're referencing, The entire system will come apart so waste quantity isnt a concern so much, but I like the idea of not letting the sediment the clr breaks loose recirculate, wich is what I think you are describing. Could you post up a pic of the setup or explain where to put what in moron speak so I can understand? That'd be great

I got smoked in, oddly enough, from working on it today, its so bad I cant see my parts truck 100 yards up the hill, starting to think, with all the weed farms around, that SnoopDog is somewhere around here.
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Coming to you from behind enemy lines, in an unmarked barn, somewhere in The Communist West
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1965 IH D11004x4 "Sherman"
1946 Dodge Job Rated half ton "Rusty"
1973 Fiat 850 Spider "il Cannoli"
Half of a dead 1958 Apache "Mad Dura-Max(to be)"

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Old 11-10-2018, 05:51 PM   #20
Greg R
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Default Re: Sv 304 Water Pump Inspection How To

Quote:
Greg R I'm having trouble visualizing what you're explaining.
I wish I had taken pictures now. At the time the shop was busy with multiple things going on at the same time, but I'll try and explain it.

The heater circuit supply to the heater comes off the engine right below the thermostat housing. From there the hose goes to a cable operated control valve you adjust cool to warm from the dash. Then the hot engine coolant goes to the heater box, and from there back to the engine somewhere on the intake manifold.

What I did was "splice" in the filter housing between the thermostat housing and the control valve. I used enough heater hose that I could be flexible on where it went, it doesn't matter as long as it doesn't fall into the fan or belts. It is only temporary and few zip ties keeps it safe from rolling off somewhere in the engine bay. The filter housing uses 3/4 pipe fittings or nipples so I used some 1/2" NPT X 5/8' hose fittings with some 3/4 X 1/2 pipe bushings.

Pre-fill the filter to get most of the air out and hook it up. Run the engine about a 1/2 hour which is plenty of time to get warm, a good flush through the heater and when the thermostat opens, you start getting stuff from the radiator too. I don't know if cooling system flow is enough for heavy stuff, but it does get the sediment and lighter stuff.

A big problem with heaters is that in many cars this where crap can accumulate and rot them out because the coolant chemistry may not reach through the crap to protect the metal. Even though heater valves are made to not have a tight shut-off but allow a bleed so things circulate, when I have the engine down for a flush I disconnect the heater hoses and push some water through them also.
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Old 11-10-2018, 06:13 PM   #21
Gunfighter97
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Default Re: Sv 304 Water Pump Inspection How To

Well then, this is actually brilliant. I disconected the heater and looped one hose to where the other one was, the heater is getting brand new guts, no flush needed, old rad still in place. I threw that red water main valve on the ground with the other hose, thank God I'm lazy and didnt throw it away! I can use the two hose fittings, and an old filter housing from a science project long forgotten, just go grab a new filter cartridge. Sweet. Clr and clean system here I come! I assume the coarser crud and rust flakes end up in the bottom/top/wichever is the intake of the rad/ or the bottom of the block. I dont care about the rad, I guess I can vacume the block out when I do freeze plugs??? Obviously cant leave them in the system so I assume they will colect somewhere. That's great though. I will definatly take pics. Since my heater is disconected it will just be replaced by the filter. I was wondering how much flow that would get. If I could get this thing to a grade below boiling the block out that would be a big win.
__________________
Coming to you from behind enemy lines, in an unmarked barn, somewhere in The Communist West
(currently planning my escape)

1965 IH D11004x4 "Sherman"
1946 Dodge Job Rated half ton "Rusty"
1973 Fiat 850 Spider "il Cannoli"
Half of a dead 1958 Apache "Mad Dura-Max(to be)"

VOTE!VOTE!VOTE!VOTE!VOTE!VOTE!VOTE!
"SHHHHH! Be wary, wary quiet! Im hunting turkeys"
Happy Thanksgiving!
RIP belts everywhere
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