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Old 11-03-2016, 04:09 AM   #2
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Member Number: 415
Location: Quincy, MA
Posts: 254
Default Re: My Traveler Ride

What would I do different so far/ lessons learned
transfer case clocking ring- nothing would do but for me to get the transfer case as high as possible for clearance. My Scout has a clean bottom of frame, that is, nothing extends below the bottom of the frame rails. Good intentions, but the nwf clocking ring I used has been nothing but trouble, a source of leaks. Between core plug issues (replaced back of engine ones twice, remove your engine!), rear main seal issues (did it twice because it didn't work the first time), and leak between transfer case and transmission (due to clocking ring) I removed the transmission transfer case at least ten times. Avid the clocking ring if possible.
Tv cable- do everything you can to use the factory GM setup with bracketry, maintains factory geometry. Pita.
GM 4l60- big transmission. Don't buy used transmissions, or rebuilds with no paperwork, r have been sitting "for awhile." this transmission is a hd version of the 700r4, basically identical. This is good, but like the 700r4, the connection between the transmission and transfer case is wet. Buy a manual and use it. I bought one but didn't. Found this out the hard way. Removed transmission several times because of this. I can now do it in under 20 minutes!
TSM driveline brake- this wants to be a great product... It goes between the transfer care output yoke and drive shafts connection consisting of a bracket, rotor, and giant mechanical caliper. The instructions are horrible. I'm not sure about the strength of it either because the rotor bolts to replacement aluminum u joint/ yoke caps. The TSM gentleman was very helpful, but I had to build a bracket to mount the caliper, build one to mount the cable retainer, buy a custom length cable (California cables was great), and I still don't have it right. This is my fault, but in hindsight, I would go with the cadillac el dorado option for parking brake equipped brake calipers for the rear. I have pressure on the rotor, but I can't get it to hold with truck in gear at idle. Needs more work, rehab. If you go the driveline brake route from TSM, call before ordering and discuss the install thoroughly.
Kwikwire 22 circuit harness- I bought this year's ago like many of my parts from IH Parts America. Jeff quizzed me on the necessity of it and recommended just going with the 8 circuit. I should have. There's no way I'm using all that wiring and creates unnecessary bulk and mess. Kwikwire support is next to nonexistent, tough to get ahold of them. Great kit, but research your oem wiring, identify your needs and future add one, plan accordingly.
IH shop manual- buy them, use them. You can disassemble and reassemble a Scout with these two volumes. Well worth the $100. Then use it. I wish I had when doing the core plugs, rear main. Great for wiring too.
Rear main seal replacement- I'm not certain I ever had to do this initially. I replaced the original motor because I had a stuck valve and debated whether to rebuild or replace do to the mileage. I went with buying a used motor, with 68k miles on it out of an old sparks, nv prison bus. Because of the source, I had to swap pump pickups, oil pans, flywheels, etc. When swapping in my at flywheel, I didn't use the IH shop manual to do so.I simply installed my old hub onto the new to me engine. I didn't use hylomar or other sealant on the threads. Didn't even google it. Didn't even do it when I saw an oil leak at the rear. Thinking it was the rear main seal needing replacement, I spent $40 and bought a new rear main seal. Installed it, pita. Still leaked, wtf? At that point I finally opened the shop manual, noted sealant was required on the 9 bolts as they see oil from the pan. Spring forward with core plug issues, removed engine, noticed speedi sleeve from po, installed new sleeve, seal, plugs per manual and usn bill's excellent thread. No more leaks, imagine that.
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