Scout II 727 Output Shaft Conversion

This was moved here from another thread which I hijacked. If it sounds like this starts in the middle of something, that's exactly what it is.

The color scheme won't matter much, when the skid plate goes on the only thing that will be noticeable is the mayben magic inside...

An observation....
The klune has a female splined fitting on the input shaft, the unit is assembled to the transfer case and installed as one piece to the trans.
So, I'm wondering if just cutting the damaged threads off the IH shaft would work? Is the Jeep and the IH output shaft the same length? Or is the output shaft bearing going to present a problem?
Ie, the stupid bore size on the IH output bearing? Then again the od of both the Jeep and the IH bearing might be the same? I'm thinking the fit (od) into the tailshaft adaptor, with the IH bearing and the Jeep adaptor???
 
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We're doing a conversion onna sii 727 in order to be able to stick a klune v unit in front of a married d20 transfer case for ihon member terry d.

This involves replacing the oem output shaft in the sii trans with an output shaft spec'd for an early/mid 80's fullsize Jeep with a 727 in front of a d300 case.

In order to do this, the entire transmission must be gutted, as the output shaft/planetary assembly is the last component set to come out of a 727 during service, and the first assembly to go back into the case (after the overrunning clutch has been freshened).

And of course, ya gotta have the correct donor parts for doing this.

About a year ago, I ran up a comparison of the various output shafts we encounter when playing with ihc stuff. This shot shows the four shafts we most commonly encounter, though there are others that were used in tf727 applications used in other oem applications. In this thread, we addressed the differences in the shafts and their respective mating planetary carrier splines:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.co...t-407-tf727-variations-parts-differences.html

In this thread, we'll concentrate on the other end of the output shaft, the "Jeep end", as we build this trans for the klune.

The subject transmission was rebuilt a few years back by a commercial shop. Then maybe a year ago, it was used as a demo for our club folks (IHSTO) regarding periodic maintenance (fluid/filter change and band adjustment), along with having both of the shifter shaft seals replaced with the trans installed in the girlscout. So we anticipated that this tranny would not require any freshening since it's performed well. Wrong!

Turns out this unit was cobbled when built. None of the rump retention bolts matched, all had heads stripped off by an impact wrench and two of the bolts were partially backed out. No attention was paid to the fastener torque at all, old soft parts were re-used, the rear drum and drum support had seized at some point and then obviously re-used when the trans was put back together. The valve body is a homebrew mish-mash of crap parts. And the low/reverse band has only been partially engaging based upon a really strange wear pattern seen on the friction material and the drum (which is not usable). The worst part,...the bull gear retaining nut had been severely fooked onto it's thread on the end of the output shaft. It took me more than two hours of progressively longer cheaters and the gas axe to finally persuade the nut off.

So along with the output shaft swap, the tranny gets a full build using the B&M -supplied parts. We're leaving nothing to chance here.

The purpose of this thread is to address prepping the sii trans for the klune install, we're not gonna go through a step-by-step tranny build.

Terry brought up a suggestion for doing this in another thread, so I'll move his post to this thread.
 

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the color scheme won't matter much, when the skid plate goes on the only thing that will be noticeable is the mayben magic inside...

An observation....
The klune has a female splined fitting on the input shaft, the unit is assembled to the transfer case and installed as one piece to the trans.
So, I'm wondering if just cutting the damaged threads off the IH shaft would work? Is the Jeep and the IH output shaft the same length? Or is the output shaft bearing going to present a problem?
Ie, the stupid bore size on the IH output bearing? Then again the od of both the Jeep and the IH bearing might be the same? I'm thinking the fit (od) into the tailshaft adaptor, with the IH bearing and the Jeep adaptor???

I don't see your suggestion as being workable, compare the length of the Jeep and sii output shafts behind the snap ring you can see on the Jeep shaft. All critical dimensions in front of the snap ring are identical with the exception of the id/od of the spline set for the planetary carrier we addressed in the other thread. That is why all of these various shafts can interchange in the same tf 727 case, no matter if the case/assembly is ihc-pattern, amc-pattern, or chrysler-pattern.

All the other output shafts are supported on their drive end by a ball bearing, the bearing for the Scout II behind the bull gear is massive as you know compared to the bearings used on the other versions. The Jeep output shaft has no support at all, other than where the shaft rides in the id of the rear drum support. So the Jeep shaft is supported through the Jeep d300 input adapter??

Do yawl have the klune on hand now?? I've never actually seen one up close other than in their tech info. That is why I was hoping we could find the Jeep intermediate housing to use now during this conversion, that way any issues can be addressed before beginning the reassembly. If ya got the klune now, email me some pics of the front end where it mates to the trans.
 
Yep, the klune is on the bench attached to a new mm rebuilt d20.
The trans side of the klune has a bolt circle of about 36 holes around it's circumference, so it can be clocked into the desired position. The input shaft is female splined to accept the trans output. No fastening nut just a slip fit.
I'll snap some pics later.

Still no luck on the adaptor tho...
 
yep, the klune is on the bench attached to a new mm rebuilt d20.
The trans side of the klune has a bolt circle of about 36 holes around it's circumference, so it can be clocked into the desired position. The input shaft is female splined to accept the trans output. No fastening nut just a slip fit.
I'll snap some pics later.

Still no luck on the adaptor tho...

So we're part way there!

And the output side of the klune fit up ok with the various bull gears we had??!!

I'm assuming the klune has some sort of venting arrangement? And ya know the vent sitch on the d20, it's a simple npt thread on the top hat so you can rig that with a nipple. I'm gonna leave the existing vent scenario on the trans case as it is but will seal the hole in the bellhousing to keep water and mud out, that was a real bogus deal they did! But...if you'd rather, I can move the vent to the top of the case like mobinder...yore call.

That d20 was assembled with transemble and pre-lubed where appropriate. But as you can see, it never had oil installed, just a coffee can to keep the critters out.
 
Yep, the klune fit the 20 without any problems. I used the bull gear you supplied. Everything spins nicely.

Go ahead and fix the vent on the trans, if the top is the best place then put it there. The klune has a vent on top as well. It's a 3/8 hose barb fitting like is on the tc.

There is a double lip seal and a double sealed bearing between the klune and the trans and the same between the klune and the 20.
Everything will vent independently.
 
Got the klune pics, that's what I needed to see to.

So we'll fab a gasket between the tranny output housing adapter and the klune or did it come with one?

I see that a Jeep adapter housing May have been scored, so I'll go ahead with the trans reassembly now. The Jeep housing should not have a vent since there is no output shaft bearing and seal assembly involved in it's design.

And the vents for the klune and the d20 can be run into the catch can together.
 
Yep, looks like the adaptor is on the way. There is a bearing in the adaptor, so I wonder if it needs to be a sealed type? It appears that there is some oil drain passages in the casting.
Is there a seal that keeps the atf out of the tailshaft adaptor?

Negative on the gasket between the klune and the tailshaft.
Klune is an advocate of your favorite stuff - rtv. They recommend that between the sections of the unit as well at the output flange. Their preference is for the black stuff though.
I did use the gasket I had on the output flange, however.

If you can measure the bearing journal on the output shaft, for me, I can get the od and figure out what bearing it takes.
 
So this is where all this is going:

stock gearing

trans x d20 x axle
2.45 x 2.2 x 5.38 = 28.99:1 final gearing:icon_gonk:

with klune

trans x klune x d20 x axle
2.45 x 4.0 x 2.2 x 5.38 = 115.99:1 final gearing :cool:
 
yep, looks like the adaptor is on the way. There is a bearing in the adaptor, so I wonder if it needs to be a sealed type? It appears that there is some oil drain passages in the casting.
Is there a seal that keeps the atf out of the tailshaft adaptor?

Negative on the gasket between the klune and the tailshaft.
Klune is an advocate of your favorite stuff - rtv. They recommend that between the sections of the unit as well at the output flange. Their preference is for the black stuff though.
I did use the gasket I had on the output flange, however.

If you can measure the bearing journal on the output shaft, for me, I can get the od and figure out what bearing it takes.

Here's the shot of the adapter housing I sent you last night.

The output shaft od is 1.374" where the bearing rides. So the bearing id must be 1.375"??? That is a smaller id than the similar area on both the dodge motorhome and the IH pickall output shafts, so the bearings are not the same like I originally thought.

Looks like the klune input coupling is od ground to mate with the seal you can see inside that Jeep housing shot. I can't quite make out the seal number in that pic, maybe you can with jen's eyes??

No freakin' way I'll use rtv shit on anything as you know, I can't believe those folks do that! They must have never tried to pick all the residue out of a slushbox tranny that failed because of rtv snakes crawlin' around inside and then clogging the filter!!

But even more important...we don't want the end of the klune input coupling to "bottom" on the inner race of the tranny output shaft bearing seen in that pic. That output shaft has to have a bit of floating endplay when in operation so that internally heat expansion does not bind anything and most especially place a tremendous load against the rear of the clutch drum in the area where the drum support on the original transmission is scruud up. That in turn would destroy the case in short order and take out the sprag.

So it appears to me...there should be a proper gasket to serve as a "shim" between the tailhousing adapter and the klune case right there at the interface. This is the same issue with the sii oem tailhousing adapter when fitting up the d20 in stock form, that is why rtv should never be used there, only the correct thickness gasket. Other wise the bull gear bottoms in the output gear and ends up "friction welding" the two parts together (in addition to screeching like a banshee).

We'll have to do some calcs on that gasket thickness and then fab one...no big deal, I have most any thickness gasket paper on hand.

On Monday, I'll be over by archer bros. In eugene. I know he'll have a proper amc/Jeep parts breakout for that bearing and seal by amc or chrysler p/n. Once I have that we can do all the crossing! They used to keep a klune in stock for this app so I'll pick his brain about that.

Man I wish we had all the parts for this in one location for a trial fit since it's a first for both of us...but we'll make it happen anyway. I keep procrastinating about sticking the conversion planetary system in the case...guess it's time to go ahead and do it! But if we had the bearing and seal installed in the Jeep housing, and then snugged the klune up to it and then stuck the planetary assembly down in the case, making the calc for any end play allowance would be dirt simple for determining gasket thickness.

The output shaft bearing should not be a "sealed" bearing at all. It is lubed from atf throwoff on the wet side of that seal, same as found in a Scout II with the "special" bearing. In that respect, it's no different than any other variant of a 727, atf inside the trans.

If the front of the klune is not vented separately where it sticks into the rear of the Jeep adapter, then we'll most likely blow a light coat of some sort of "preservative" on all surfaces since no doubt over time some corrosion could form due to condensation. Or...we could vent that area also. We can use something like "boeshield" which I have on hand, or crc sp 400, you prolly have that stuff on the bearing bench!
 

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Terry has snaked an amc/Jeep tf727 tailhousing/adapter for a d300 so that we can move ahead on the conversion.

He installed a new sealed bearing, but I've popped the seals out and tossed 'em. That bearing needs to lubricate from atf throwoff, with a true oil seal installed on the klune side in order to keep atf out of the klune coupling area.

This pic shows the "short/splined" Jeep output shaft installed into it's planetary assembly and is ready to stuff in the case. The replacement rear drum support has been shrunk in, the overrunning clutch refreshed, and then the rear band strut/new rear band, and the rear drum have been installed in the case also.

Compare the two planetary/shaft assemblies, the oem Scout II is on the right. Notice that the system are identical forward of the machined area on the output shaft where the helix for the speedo drive is located, the pattern behind that helix is what is totally different between these two shafts.
 

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This is the replacement rear drum support shrunk into the case. The output shaft is supported in the id of this part, and the governor is also sealed to the id of the support with two steel rings that seal the hydraulic circuit with which the governor interacts.

The red stuff is "transemble" which is a form of atf converted to a "grease" and is used to prelube everything and as an aid in installing all the rubber seals, etc. This stuff breaks down into a soluble oil the instant atf hits it, we never use any other form of "grease" inside this units as chunks of grease can wreak havoc inside the valve body.
 

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Here's the rear band and apply linkage, and the overrunning clutch installed in the case. The thrust surface of the drum gets a dab of transemble before it's placed into position, then it's spun to test the action of the one-way clutch.
 

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Here the entire planetary and output shaft assembly has been stuck in the hole. There are several visual clues inside and outside the unit at this point to verify that the assembly has been fully seated internally, if it's not, then we'll have severe bind-up and the tranny can self-destruct in a few minutes! "end play" is a very important part of building a 727 and we control that with the use of selective fit thrust washers.

The thrust washer seen in this pic is one particular type, it's a bronze material. Many of these units have a phenolic thrust washer at this position which is perfectly serviceable also. And some have a "tri-lobular" shape, again, it does not matter which washer is used as long as the resulting end play is within spec...and the spec is a rather large tolerance.
 

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This is the bizznizz end of the unit, the main reason we're doing this deal! Notice the difference in "stickout" here compared to the original sii.

This type shaft mates to the d300 transfer case with a splined coupling sleeve, not a bull gear. The Scout II hooks to a d300 with a bull gear.
 

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Now we move on to the front end of the tranny. That involves in rebuilding the front and rear clutches. Initially we though we'd not do anything to this unit other than swap the shafts. But once I got into it I could see it had been a bogus assembly job from the commercial shop several years ago. No sense in risking any potential failure here considering the cost of making this klune conversion.

Sure enough when I pulled the clutch packs apart they both had issues due to poor setup and slippage.

The guts in this tranny build involve a B&M "transmission inna box". This is the same parts setup used in units built in-house by B&M and the parts included in the kit are high end stuff without getting into the drag race shit which has no use in street/off-road transmissions.

Once I ripped into the clutches, I found that a premium friction material had been used, but no attention was paid to the springs! Wrong! And they had obviously reused the old steels as each had burn bites on the faces. Because of that, the friction material has strange wear patterns also, just like the reverse band did.

This pic shows the front clutch after the frictions have been removed and the tension on the spring plate released. This is an oem Scout II clutch pack setup with springs of the oem rate, three sets of three springs each arranged on the retaining pegs, that part is correct!
 

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That aluminum disc is the hydraulically-actuated clutch piston, it moves against the spring pressure and has perimeter and inner hydraulic seals. So that piston has to be carefully removed, cleaned/inspected for cracks, and then have replacement seals installed.

Using transemble slather generously, the piston is somewhat tedious to re-seat. But once it goes in without damaging the rubber seals, it works really nice.

Then the replacement clutch springs supplied in the B&M kit are placed in position, this is a ten spring set and the springs are a higher rate than the oem stuff.

There are many variations of the clutch spring setup used in all the different 727 units used behind the light duty stuff all the way up to the true hemi version (and 440). But the B&M clutch springs are calibrated to work with all the other mods to the valve body and are not something to just stick in place to beef it up! Just adding additional springs is not the way to go, this is an engineered solution.

Notice that the installation pattern of the ten spring set is different compared to the nine spring setup.
 

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Here's a shot of the spring retainer in position just before the clutch pack is compressed and the snap ring installed. The fixture I use for doing this is a homebrew item using a steering wheel puller , a bolt/nut, and an aluminum connecting rod support for some honda motorcycle engine application.
 

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The rear clutch is reconditioned using essentially the same process, however it has a belville spring for retaining the clutch piston that does not have to be compressed, its much easier to handle.

The B&M kit uses the same frictions and steels for both clutch packs, so we don't have to keep the parts separated.

Once I removed the belville spring from the rear clutch, I prepared for the battle that sometimes occurs in trying to extract the piston. However, in this instance it literally fell out!

Inspection showed that the perimeter seal on the piston was majorly damaged and deteriorated! No way that should be unless this thing was severely overheated which it did not show signs of inside. I've seen those rubber seals tuned to carbon chunks in some units.

So now we find a root cause for total transmission failure at some point, if that clutch won't hold pressure, it simply can't lock up! The result is loosing whatever gear is selected and whatever mode the valve body is in at the time. This is the kind of failure that leaves ya dead on the trail.

Once the rear clutch was completed and the input shaft seal rings replaced, all the mating parts were treated with transemble and slid together , this pic shows the nested clutches ready to be stuck back into the case.

But...before we do that, we're gonna mate the clutch set to the pump body and then use low pressure air to "test" both the front and rear clutch pistons to make certain they will hold pressure and actuate without sticking. We don't wanna wait and find out we screwed up after the unit is stuck back in the rig and full of oil!
 

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