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Old 06-29-2017, 10:40 PM   #391
Scoutboy74
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Welcome to the forum. You know, I've heard this sad tale too many times before. There really is no such thing as a mechanic who focuses on IH Scouts anymore, other than my "brothers from other mothers" at IHPA in Grass Valley, CA. But, any mechanic with a solid chunk of grey in his beard and scalp who is more at home thumbing through greasy, dog-eared manuals than he is at hen pecking on a pooder keyboard should be able to muddle his way through pretty well. These things aren't Fix It Again Tony's (FIATs) for craps sakes! I've logged plenty of billable hours on a free lance basis and I have no professional training or certificates. Totally self taught wrench for hire. If I can make these damn things go vroom, just anybody can! My suggestion to you is, rather than the wide spray pattern of a shotgun blast in one post, focus in on one system and post a new thread all your own in the most appropriate subject heading and wait for help. For instance...in the "Electrical" category, you could create a post with a title like "392 won't turn over" And then in the body of the post go into great detail about the battery condition, battery cable condition, starter motor condition...anything that you think pertains to getting the engine to turn over when you turn the key switch. Don't worry about the engine running poorly or the horn not working or the heater no blowing or anything else on the periphery that isn't involved in making the engine turn over. Get some advice to get that issue resolved and then make a new post, perhaps in "Gas Engine Tech" like "392 starts, but runs like crap" and then wade into the subject. See what I mean? Keep things compartmentalized. Don't try to get help for every single friggin' possible issue all jammed into one post. It just doesn't work that way.
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Favorite hobby...Driving Salma Hayek in my Scout

Coal Trickle - '99 Dodge Ram 2500 Q-Cab SWB 4x4 - 5.9L 24V CTD/NV4500
Hooty - '74 SII - 392/TF727/D20/3.73 D44's/Spartan FA/Krac-lok RA/RC 4" SUA/34x10.5 TSLs/33g Fuel/HFT 8k winch
Mongo - '71 1210 Std Cab 2WD - 345/TF727/RA17 D60 4.10 Trac-lok - "Mongo love candy! Duh, huh, huh!"
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Old 06-30-2017, 10:09 AM   #392
tat_ayala
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Thank you for the words of wisdom. I will go ahead and start a new thread with my issues just one quick question what issue should I start with first
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Old 06-30-2017, 09:04 PM   #393
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Let's triage your ride a little. We have to crawl before we can walk. Your starter has to spin the engine over before the engine can run. Does anything good happen when you hit the key? If not, that's where to start. If the starter motor cranks over good and strong, but the engine won't light off, then that's where to begin. If the starter motor cranks good and strong, the engine lights off fairly quickly, but won't stay running, then that's where to begin. A logical progression from total dead dog to purring kitten is what we're looking for.
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Favorite hobby...Driving Salma Hayek in my Scout

Coal Trickle - '99 Dodge Ram 2500 Q-Cab SWB 4x4 - 5.9L 24V CTD/NV4500
Hooty - '74 SII - 392/TF727/D20/3.73 D44's/Spartan FA/Krac-lok RA/RC 4" SUA/34x10.5 TSLs/33g Fuel/HFT 8k winch
Mongo - '71 1210 Std Cab 2WD - 345/TF727/RA17 D60 4.10 Trac-lok - "Mongo love candy! Duh, huh, huh!"
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Old 07-01-2017, 02:15 PM   #394
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The truck cranks strong but it won't turn on. I do have a battery that is charged and ready to go. The three major things that have been changed where the original gas tank to a no emissions gas tank, distributor and the carburetor it went from a 2210 to a 2300. Even though I made these changes the emissions system as in smog pump and charcoal canister still there. Water pipes where changed out too. Before all the changes the truck ran not perfectly but it ran where I could drive it
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Old 07-01-2017, 07:59 PM   #395
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OK, now we're getting somewhere. Since the reason the engine isn't starting could be fuel related, spark related or both, let's have you go ahead and start your own new thread in GAS ENGINE TECH section. I know it may seem redundant to you, but trust me, from an organizational standpoint, it will be much better if we end this discussion here now before wading any further into the tech weeds in this lengthy member check in thread, which is only meant for introducing yourself, your rig and saying howdy. In your new thread which you can title "Starter cranks but engine won't run" you can begin with some basic backstory about the rig, what work has been done, what parts have been replaced and then get right into what happens as soon as you hop in and turn the key. Then we'll hit the ground running from there and see if we can't home in on why she won't light off and run. Sound good?
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Favorite hobby...Driving Salma Hayek in my Scout

Coal Trickle - '99 Dodge Ram 2500 Q-Cab SWB 4x4 - 5.9L 24V CTD/NV4500
Hooty - '74 SII - 392/TF727/D20/3.73 D44's/Spartan FA/Krac-lok RA/RC 4" SUA/34x10.5 TSLs/33g Fuel/HFT 8k winch
Mongo - '71 1210 Std Cab 2WD - 345/TF727/RA17 D60 4.10 Trac-lok - "Mongo love candy! Duh, huh, huh!"
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Old 07-01-2017, 09:45 PM   #396
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Thank you sir that is a great idea and no it's not redundant at all I am here to learn and listen to all those here who have come before me. The first step is the hardest step and you've help me take it. I will definitely follow your advice and start my own thread with a backstory because it is an interesting one.I want to thank you again for your help hope to hear from you soon
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Old 07-13-2017, 11:25 AM   #397
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Aaron form Texas here. Just getting into the Off-Road world. I'm going to be spending a whole lot of time here trying to restore my 1978 Scout.
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Old 07-15-2017, 02:08 PM   #398
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Hi guys. Newbie here. Found this place after buying a 1968 Harvester 1200C 3/4 pickup yesterday. Been looking for an older truck for years now, and thought this would be a very cool truck. Im happy with the purchase, although it is heavily rusted all around, but I think the engine is solid with 67K original miles as I am told since it was a farm truck its entire life. But I am exited to get it running smooth and fixing a lot of the items myself. Going to be a challenge but I'm up for it.
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Old 08-22-2017, 02:41 PM   #399
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ihpartsjeff View Post
Are you still seeing issues with sizing? Everything looks good on my end. Let me know and enjoy the site.

Oh, and use a bigger hammer .
Correct brackets for the new alternator?? Have had that trouble myself. A small shift in position will make a go/no go situation.
Bigger alternator? that can do a no no on the situation.
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Old 09-03-2017, 06:38 AM   #400
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Default newbie 1973 1110 PU 6cyl

Checking in saying Hi

I acquired a 1973 1110 PU 6cyl from a friend that past away recently. it was sitting in his driveway for a few years he saved her from being demolished in the junkyard. he loved to tell the story of it being in the the jaws of the crane and he stopped them from destroying her. shes in pretty good shape minimal rust all the fluids drained the drum brakes are rust free the engine is in pieces not that bad. it was missing a starter which i replaced from a shop in Washington, im located in NJ. i have no idea where to start and no idea where all the wires go or vacuum tubes ahhh Ive been reading the post and cant figure out if i have a 232 or a 258 and how to get a handle on the wiring and tubing. i would like to know if getting the manual and assembling the engine, checking the gas tank and doing this start up procedure that i am having trouble finding is the way to go
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Old 09-03-2017, 08:39 AM   #401
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Welcome. Your engine should be the AMC 258 I-6. There's not much discussion of I-6 powered, D-line trucks on the forums, as the V8 engine options are far more commonplace in these big pickups. Scout II's of similar vintage with that same engine are fairly common, though. Its quite possible your truck may have originally been part of some fleet service in which greater fuel economy had more value than sheer brute strength. Getting your own copy of the factory service manual... http://www.ihpartsamerica.com/store/SLCTS-2303.html ...is never a bad idea. Your entire fuel system from tank to carb should be clean and leak free. It is possible to bypass the onboard tank(s) and run temporarily from a clean fuel can and hose connected to the supply side of the fuel pump during your initial revival and tuning efforts. Any engine that has been sitting dormant for a significant time should have the lubrication system pre-primed before any attempts are made to turn the engine over either via starter motor or by hand tool. This essentially involves removal of the distributor, so that a slotted engagement tool chucked into a power drill can be inserted down the hole for engagement with the oil pump drive shaft. This allows the pump to be rotated, thus building oil pressure that forces oil to flow up to the top of the engine to lubricate critical friction parts before they are dry-rotated. Once oil pressure has been built up and top end lubrication has been achieved, it is then acceptable to slowly rotate the engine by hand in small increments, while still driving pressure and flow with the power drill. Complete one full engine rotation in this manner and the lubrication system will be fully primed. At that point, the drill can be set aside, the distributor re-inserted, and ignition system static timing verified/adjusted to spec. Once all that is done, a fresh fuel supply can be introduced along with a fully charged cranking battery. Only now should starter motor cranking begin. But before most of those steps can begin, you will obviously need to have a fully assembled engine. Obviously, what I've described is a very broad overview of a fairly complex and laborious process. All of these topics have been discussed in great detail within the bowels of this forum. Spend some time browsing through the posts in the GAS ENGINE, ELECTRICAL, BASIC TECH and other pertinent categories within this forum, and especially any "sticky" threads at the upper portion of each category page. If you develop questions that try as you might you can't seem to find an answer to, by all means, post a new thread in what you believe is the most appropriate category...ie a question about brakes would go in BRAKE TECH. Try to keep the focus of your tech post questions as narrow in scope as you can. In other words, don't try to get help for every single issue the truck has in one single post. Instead make multiple posts for multiple issues, especially if those issues are not closely related...such as brake issues and engine tuning issues. Those two topics are worlds apart and are best dealt with separately.
__________________
Favorite hobby...Driving Salma Hayek in my Scout

Coal Trickle - '99 Dodge Ram 2500 Q-Cab SWB 4x4 - 5.9L 24V CTD/NV4500
Hooty - '74 SII - 392/TF727/D20/3.73 D44's/Spartan FA/Krac-lok RA/RC 4" SUA/34x10.5 TSLs/33g Fuel/HFT 8k winch
Mongo - '71 1210 Std Cab 2WD - 345/TF727/RA17 D60 4.10 Trac-lok - "Mongo love candy! Duh, huh, huh!"
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Old 09-03-2017, 01:50 PM   #402
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thanks for the link and information scoutboy74, i look forward to reviving and hearing the engine come to life again. is the 258 AMC I6 a good engine?
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Old 09-03-2017, 04:14 PM   #403
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Supposed to be. I don't have any personal experience with one. The IH lineup of inline 6 engines was getting pretty long in the tooth by the 60's. So, rather than revamp and develop a more modern, lightweight offering, they instead opted to source the 232 and later the 258 from their direct competitor, AMC. Pretty interesting arrangement. We couldn't imagine Ford or Chevy ever sourcing engines from each other to install in their competing products.
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Favorite hobby...Driving Salma Hayek in my Scout

Coal Trickle - '99 Dodge Ram 2500 Q-Cab SWB 4x4 - 5.9L 24V CTD/NV4500
Hooty - '74 SII - 392/TF727/D20/3.73 D44's/Spartan FA/Krac-lok RA/RC 4" SUA/34x10.5 TSLs/33g Fuel/HFT 8k winch
Mongo - '71 1210 Std Cab 2WD - 345/TF727/RA17 D60 4.10 Trac-lok - "Mongo love candy! Duh, huh, huh!"
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Old 09-03-2017, 06:24 PM   #404
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Raven here. In Nebraska with a new project, '72 Scout II, 345 engine. 26k original miles. Used to plow a car lot it's whole life, one owner prior to me. Lots of rust, but interior is beautiful. Runs, but needs some TLC.
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Old 11-27-2017, 08:04 AM   #405
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Found the forum by searching for IH v8 engine knocking
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