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Old 03-01-2017, 05:25 PM   #1
harrywt
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Default Hysteer Tweaks in Korea

In my rush to get ready to move to korea I compromised a bit with my hysteer installation. When IHPA sent me the kit it came with the raised arms. Which I now remember that I asked for. This was three plus years ago.

I was aiming for 6 degrees negative caster but I ended up with 9 degrees because of the perch geometry. The po perches were much shorter than the IHPA perches so that when the u bolts were tightened up the final angle of perch to spring was different. I did a relative twist based on the position of the old perches.

This proves that bill hamilton once again is the king. I felt that I didn't have enough time so I relied on lots of measurement and my fancy electronic level. Btw 9 degrees negative caster is no problem at all, the Scout tracks beautifully

the issue was/is that the tie rod no sits pretty far away from the springs and, of course, closer to the oil pan. This wasn't a problem until I fixed my tranny and have been able to off road more in korea.

I noticed that the oil pan was getting bashed! Look closely at these two pics, they are not the best to show the oil pan but you can see it.

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Old 03-01-2017, 06:48 PM   #2
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Default Re: Hysteer Tweaks in Korea

You will also notice that things are kind of oily looking. It's actually steering oil, I have had a lot of trouble with steering pumps with this Scout.

I was in livermore back in January so I took a ride up to Grass Valley to pick up a steering pump and some flat hysteer arms. I bought a couple of spacers also just in case. I now have a non leaking steering pump

so I tried to remove the hysteer retaining nuts and then tried to bash them off which I think could never work.

I thought to remove the studs, the correct thing to do. I grinded down one of the retaining nuts. This was so that when I put two on a stud and cinched them together that the top nut would engage more threads. This didn't work so I was wishing for my oxy-acetylene torch back in ny.

So I remembered that I had this butane torch I used for soldering so I tried it


and I finally got them out


however the flat arm interfers witht he banjo bolt of the brake line on the caliper so I am going to have the flat arm cut to the dimension of the "bent arm"

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Old 03-05-2017, 02:03 AM   #3
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Default Re: Hysteer Tweaks in Korea

So I got the arms and spacers back from the shop all grinded to pass the banjo bolt and I am all set for a day of tinkering. So I am dry fitting and scratching my head and putting in the spacers removing the spacers etc etc etc

so this is a lesson in steering geometry. Since I ended up with 9 degrees of negative caster the distance from the tie rod to the spring changes quite a bit from tires straight ahead to extreme right or left turn. If I had gottenthe 6 degrees that I was aiming for then I wouldn't have had as much trouble.

To get the most distance from the oil pan I wanted no spacers. But then the tie rod would hit the spring plates at extreme turn. With the spacers theis didn't happen but them I wasn't lowerin the tie rod very much from the pan so I lots of trouble for very little gain.

So I grinded away at the spring paltes and was all fat dumb and happy until I remembered to put the drag link back. Murphy's side rule, "if it is going too easy you are doing something wrong"

so the ball joint end and the castle nut were just too close to the spring. I need t put it back together but I don't want to go with the 1/2" spacers and gain very little. So I am biting the bullet and having 5mm spacers made. Remember that this is korea. 6.35mm is a 1/4". I have a $10 000 cad program on my computer from work so I just modeled it up. The shop I use just takes the computer file, I don't even have to make drawings but I do it to prevent arguments later. Machine shop work is very cheap here.

I am moving back to the states soon, to la in fact. I'll bring the truck to some experts. The pics below show all that I said above


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Old 03-21-2017, 11:10 PM   #4
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Default Re: Hysteer Tweaks in Korea

Got the new spacers back, laser cut, 5mm thick, about 3/16", $10 each, gotta love korea
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Old 03-21-2017, 11:17 PM   #5
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Default Re: Hysteer Tweaks in Korea

I made sure that I was happy with all clearances before I tightened up the nuts to the arms. The tre nut from the drag link ended up with better clearance because I needed to tilt the tie rod as you can see. I just didn't get a pic of the final clearance.

In any event the drag link tie rod join has to change. That will be after move to la
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Old 03-21-2017, 11:21 PM   #6
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Default Re: Hysteer Tweaks in Korea

The wifey helping me do a crude alignment while the dog stands guard. Pissed off that I didn't remember to get some angle iron. Boy do I miss my shop!!

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Old 03-21-2017, 11:23 PM   #7
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Default Re: Hysteer Tweaks in Korea

Wiped off a lot of gunk from the leaky steering pump. Now you can more clearly see where the tie rod hit the oil pan

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Old 03-21-2017, 11:28 PM   #8
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Default Re: Hysteer Tweaks in Korea

Clearer view of drag link to tie rod join. First of all the ball joint penetrates too far so there's no room for a dust boot. I also had to use washers so that the hole for the cotter pin lined up wit the crenulations of the castle nut (phd baby). The tre of the drag link actually rubs the tie rod sometimes.

You also see some grinding of the tie rod, don't worry I stopped very quickly when I told myself how stupid I was being, phd's can learn too!

So, she's done for now

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Old 03-22-2017, 05:54 AM   #9
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Default Re: Hysteer Tweaks in Korea

Quote:
Originally Posted by harrywt View Post
clearer view of drag link to tie rod join. First of all the ball joint penetrates too far so there's no room for a dust boot. I also had to use washers so that the hole for the cotter pin lined up wit the crenulations of the castle nut (phd baby). The tre of the drag link actually rubs the tie rod sometimes.

You also see some grinding of the tie rod, don't worry I stopped very quickly when I told myself how stupid I was being, phd's can learn too!

So, she's done for now
That passenger side tierod end looks like it got reamed too far where the draglink intersects it hence why you couldn't fit a dust boot and had to put washers on the other side. I didn't check your records but I assume you bought these parts from us?? If so, once you get back stateside, call so that we can get you a replacement out.
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