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Old 01-20-2015, 07:17 PM   #16
DC67 800
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Default Re: My 67 800

Got the exhaust fabricated, nothing special just a 2-1/4" kit that exits in front of the rear tires. The kit came with a bunch of different hanger options to work with most applications. Used dynomax super turbos for the mufflers and a pair of full length headers that are made for a corvette.

I just kept it simple, there is no cross over pipe and exiting in front of the rear tires kept bends to a minimum. If the exit point does not work out I can modify it in the future to exit behind the tires. Figured since this is not a hot rod the exhaust should function fine.



These headers actually fit surprisingly well. I printed a picture off of the suppliers website and did some rough scaling since they had no dimensions. Once I figured they were close I took a chance and ordered them, it was a relief to get them right on the first try with no returns. I really didn't want to use block huggers.
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Had to clearance the drivers side motor mount to fit, I didn't wand to beat up a new header. If the mount shows any signs of stress in the future it can be beefed up.
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Mufflers fit nicely right where the body steps up. You can see they block the parking brake cable brackets. Since I have upgraded to a lokar parking break setup those brackets will not be needed. Still working on the location for the lokar hand lever but I have a couple of ideas.
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Had to buy a couple of extra bends to get around the t-case. Worked nicely.
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The only part of the kit I didn't like was the length of the straight pipe, had to piece two pipes together between the drivers side header and muffler.
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Exit point, probably get some nice tips. With sliders it should be protected nicely.
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Old 01-20-2015, 07:36 PM   #17
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Default Re: My 67 800

Got this for a back seat. The colors matched what I have done so far. Still need to mount it, trying to do the dirty greasy work before it gets fit.
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Found these seats a while back, nothing special, but they are going to get some extra padding added and recovered with material to match the back seat. Luckily I have an uncle who does upholstery work. He has the seats now and is just waiting on me to send a head rest to him for a material match. Should look good when done.
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Old 01-21-2015, 02:35 PM   #18
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Default Re: My 67 800

Your build looks great. Inspiring.
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Old 01-21-2015, 05:50 PM   #19
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Default Re: My 67 800

Quote:
Originally Posted by pops View Post
your build looks great. Inspiring.

Thanks pops,
glad you like it. It's been a long haul to get this far. Even though there is a lot more to do I finally feel like I am on the down hill side to having it run.

Damian
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Old 01-24-2015, 09:11 AM   #20
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I just realize I never mentioned what was installed for gears and traction.

Since the trans is an overdrive I went with 4.88 gears. Should cruise nicely and if I ever upgrade to a 35" tire it will still be geared low enough.

The rear diff has a spartan locker installed. Not my first choice, but a select-able was just to much to spend for me at this point. Did a lot of reading on this type of locker and like every product there are a lot of people who love them and hate them, so I will have to experience it for myself. I will run it like this for a while and upgrade in the future when money to finish the project is not an issue.

The front contains a detroit truetrac. I know it's not the ultimate traction device, but it will do for now. At least it will give some better traction than an open diff and still be manageable in 4wd.
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Old 01-24-2015, 08:21 PM   #21
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I know a lot of guys are setting up hydra boost (spelling) for power break systems. I debated between that and a power booster setup and decided on power breaks. Even though hydra boost does not look that complicated it was just one more unknown for me that I didn't want to deal with, so ended up going with a power brake booster.

Sorry for the sideways pictures.
The biggest hurdle with power breaks for an early Scout is clearing the fender well, so what I did was to move the master cylinder support box that is bolted to the fire wall up one bolt hole. This allowed the master cylinder to clear the fender well and aligned the break piston rod that attaches to the pedal almost perfectly. The booster is an aftermarket unit for a GM setup.
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The break pedal is the factory unit. I bought a cheapo aluminum pedal pad off of ebay, removed the attachment protrusion from the back side. Then removed the rubber pads and drilled and countersunk four holes through it and the factory steel pedal, then bolted the aluminum pad to the factory pedal and glued the rubber pedal pads back in. Now I have a nice looking break pedal and a gas pedal(also off of ebay) to match. They look pretty good and together cost less than the name brand pedal pad alone.
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I did have to drill a new hole in the factory pedal assembly as the alignment was off just a bit, but it worked really nicely.
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Old 01-29-2015, 12:29 AM   #22
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Default Re: My 67 800

Nice build. I have two questions. First do you have a part number or know where or what the wiper motors are from? And two the same goes for the back seat? I really like how the 350 fits in there. Most people are notching the body tube and what not yours looks like about what the stock 304 looks like in the engine bay.
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1969 IH Scout 800a, 304sv8, t18, twinstick dana20, full width Chevy EatonHO72 rear lkd 4:11, full width Chevy Dana44HD 8lug lkd 4:11 disk, hydro boost Pw steering/Brakes, full rewire, front shackle reversal, Cherokee steering column, 99 WJ steering box. elec fans, Dura spark/HEI conversion.
1992 Jeep Cherokee 4.0l auto lots of modifications
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT8
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Old 01-29-2015, 08:33 PM   #23
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Default Re: My 67 800

Quote:
Originally Posted by kvp View Post
nice build. I have two questions. First do you have a part number or know where or what the wiper motors are from? And two the same goes for the back seat? I really like how the 350 fits in there. Most people are notching the body tube and what not yours looks like about what the stock 304 looks like in the engine bay.

Here is a link to the wiper motors:
model # tmc-00902-12v heavy duty marine wiper motor with 2" shaft
You have to call them to order because you will need a reverse park motor for the passenger side. When you call, tim at tmc will know exactly what you are doing. He keeps the reverse park motors in stock because Scout guys use them, they are not on the web site because he doesn't want to confuse his boat customers.

Link to the wiper switch that you will need:
am equipment : twist knob switch for two coast to park motors w/ wash [311-1017] - $17.89.


The rear seat is a bestop brand for a Jeep.
I got mine off of amazon only because I had a gift certificate, so it cost me like $75 and the colors worked perfectly for my project. I have not installed it yet, but I will just keep it simple and fabricate some brackets to bolt it to the floor.
Here is the model:
bestop 39441-15 trailmax II fold and tumble black denim vinyl with fabric insert rear bench seat for 55-95 cj5, cj7 and wrangler yj


as far as the 350 goes, I just mocked it up with the transmission, transfer case and adapter. I knew I didn't want to cut the firewall and my goal was to keep all the running gear above the frame rails.
The exhaust port on the drivers side was where I started for the location front to back. That port was placed just far enough in front of the firewall protrusion to fit a header. That left me about 3-1/2" to 4" from the snout of the water pump to the radiator(which is not stock but in the same location). From there I just checked driveline length front and rear and made sure I could get the geometry to work for the u-joints.
I will show more detail on most of this soon.

As far as engine height goes the the water pump is almost centered on the radiator, that worked out to keep the transfer case above the bottom of the frame rails and work with the motor mounts (which are also for a Jeep). I could have clocked the transfer case and dropped the motor lower, but I wanted the option to run a mechanical fan if necessary.

Let me know if you need any more info or better pictures. I will post more soon.

Damian
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Old 01-29-2015, 11:58 PM   #24
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Default Re: My 67 800

Cool thank you. Looks like their are at least two scouts out there with more then one piece of Jeep stuff lol. Keep up the awesome build and if time allows keep us in the know.
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1969 IH Scout 800a, 304sv8, t18, twinstick dana20, full width Chevy EatonHO72 rear lkd 4:11, full width Chevy Dana44HD 8lug lkd 4:11 disk, hydro boost Pw steering/Brakes, full rewire, front shackle reversal, Cherokee steering column, 99 WJ steering box. elec fans, Dura spark/HEI conversion.
1992 Jeep Cherokee 4.0l auto lots of modifications
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT8
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Old 01-31-2015, 07:48 AM   #25
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Default Re: My 67 800

I think this question will be ok with the mods.

Have any of you used d&c extreme's cage kit for our 80/800's?
Have you dealt with the new owner?

The roll cage is a project I don't want to tackle from scratch as I don't have access to a bender and don't want to buy one.
I don't mind putting together a kit.

Thanks
damian
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Old 01-31-2015, 08:04 AM   #26
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Default Re: My 67 800

Quote:
Originally Posted by kvp View Post
cool thank you. Looks like their are at least two scouts out there with more then one piece of Jeep stuff lol. Keep up the awesome build and if time allows keep us in the know.

I was going to comment on the use of Jeep parts, but I had just read another post that Chad shot down about making fun of jeeps (not that I was going to do that).

Funny how well so many of their parts fit the early scouts. Glad they do though as it makes for some easy and inexpensive fabrication.
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Old 01-31-2015, 09:13 PM   #27
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So I got the radiator and electric fan mounted today.
The radiator is just a basic universal unit for a Chevy, and the fan is a derale fan that is sized to fit the radiator core.



I had a couple pieces of angle welded to the radiator which allowed for using the factory bolt locations, keeping the radiator where it came from the factory.
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The fan came with the standard through the radiator nylon mounting hardware, which I really didn't want to use. Fortunately it also came with some really nice adjustable brackets. They just weren't quite long enough to fit my radiator.
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Even though I was not able to use the extension brackets, I was able to use the l brackets that are meant for bolting to the radiator core support, they fit perfectly top and bottom. But my radiator core support did not have enough on the return lip to use a bolt as you can see in the picture. So I drilled a hole through the bottom/ top of the four support brackets.
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Then I made four 3/16" spacers and drilled and tapped them to match the holes in the brackets. These fit against the lip of the support to lock the fan in place.
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Here you can see the spacers holding the fan in place.
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Fan mounted with all four brackets and spacers.
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Installed. The derale fan was an upgrade from what I was looking at, but it was worth it for the cooling ability, installation hardware, and the thickness ( about 2-5/8"). Made for an easy install.
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Last edited by DC67 800; 01-31-2015 at 10:39 PM..
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Old 02-28-2015, 09:04 AM   #28
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Default Re: My 67 800

Here are some pics of my gas tank fab. I ditched the two side tanks in favor of a single rear tank.

The tank is a 15 gallon unit for a Jeep. I think it's for a 78-86 cj/wrangler I believe. I saw a similar tank used by IHPA on one of their builds, but they used a newer model with the filler on the drivers side. My tank has the filler on the passenger side. For some reason the sending unit on the newer tank was about 4x the cost as the older unit that I used, so I just went with the older model. Don't really remember what the differences were.


Welded a piece of angle to the frame side rails at the tank corners.
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I used a pieces of square tube steel on the sides of the tank for support. The lip of the tank rests on the tubing, there will be a rubber spacer between the two for vibration.
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Here you can see the lip of the tank supported by the tubing and hanging from the angle.
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Here it is completed. The tank is easily removable should any maintenance become necessary.
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Capped the tubing ends to keep debris out.
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Old 02-28-2015, 09:29 AM   #29
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Got the shifter fitted and installed. I didn't like the way the shifter tilted back because of the shape of the tunnel cover. The B&M shifter also has the shifter cable coming out the back at an angle and this forced the whole unit to tilt back at a steep angle. Combine these two factors and I wasn't happy with the whole setup. After messing around with it and trimming the skirt wrong I had to come up with something that would work without buying a new skirt. I decided to recess the shifter into the tunnel. As the unit is meant to be in the cab and not below I had to built a recessed box that could support the shifter and keep it out of the elements. This recess allowed the shifter to sit level and got rid of most of the huge plastic skirt. I don't have any pictures of the recessed box that is welded to the tunnel cover, but if anyone is interested I can take a couple and get them posted.



Since the tunnel is removable the shifter cable just has to be disconnected at the tranny and the tunnel and shifter come out as a single unit.
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Didn't really like the t handle that came with the shifter. Found a cheap black shift knob for it that matches the shift knobs for the t-case.
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Old 02-28-2015, 09:59 AM   #30
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Default Re: My 67 800

I like what you have done so far with this build. It's things like the shifter and the tank, etc, etc. That is what I love. everything is custom but it all looks like it could have been done at the factory!

keep us updated on this baby! I cant wait to see the final product when she is done!
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