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Old 03-01-2015, 08:01 AM   #31
DC67 800
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Default Re: My 67 800

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Originally Posted by punjig View Post
I like what you have done so far with this build. It's things like the shifter and the tank, etc, etc. That is what I love. everything is custom but it all looks like it could have been done at the factory!

keep us updated on this baby! I cant wait to see the final product when she is done!

Thanks,

it's the appreciation for a build from others and watching builds like yours that help keep me motivated to finish.
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Old 03-01-2015, 08:53 AM   #32
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Once my heater was installed I had to get the 5/8" hoses through the firewall to the the engine bay. I was having trouble finding a grommet that would fit the hose to make a good seal. So I came up with another solution that seemed very simple and would seal the holes without a grommet.


Her is where the hoses had to pass through.
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I made an aluminum plate out of 1/4" plate stock and drilled the correct size holes for the hoses to pass through and bolted the plate to the firewall. The edges of the holes were eased and the holes were sanded smooth.
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The hoses were attached to the heater core then passed through the holes and the core installed. There is just enough room to remove the hoses from the core should they need to be replaced.
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Anyone know of a good inline shut off valve to keep water from circulating through the heater core in the summer time?
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Old 03-01-2015, 09:05 AM   #33
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Default Re: My 67 800

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Originally Posted by dc67 800 View Post
thanks,

it's the appreciation for a build from others and watching builds like yours that help keep me motivated to finish.

Ditto that!
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Old 03-07-2015, 07:10 PM   #34
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Default Re: My 67 800

So I picked this bumper up for the project. You can guess what it came off of.

I want your opinions. Should I extend it out on each side to reach the fender line or run it as is? I have an idea to lengthen it that will look good. It doesn't look bad as it is.

Let me know.

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Old 03-08-2015, 02:23 AM   #35
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Default Re: My 67 800

Think it would look better if the bumper and bar got extended to wrap around the front marker light. Looks good just don't like how it covers the marker light.
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Old 03-08-2015, 04:13 AM   #36
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Default Re: My 67 800

I agree 100% with fordboy. If the marker lights were not covered the bumper would look sweet. There is nothing actually wrong with the overall width of the bumper if it were not for the marker lights being covered. And in my opinion, the marker lights on our scouts (I & II's) are a distinct part of these IH trucks.

It might be easy to widen the bumper, but it looks like it might be a little difficult to widen the bars. Maybe cut the bumper and bars in half and add some length in the middle. Grind the welds on the added piece to the bar, skim coat it, and repaint?

Overall, I love this bumper!
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Old 03-08-2015, 07:53 AM   #37
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Default Re: My 67 800

Thanks guys,
the bars covering the marker/turn signal lights is the thing that bothers me also. I think I will just totally remove and replace those bars past the marker lights. I have already picked up some 4x6 steel tube to insert on the outer side of the d ring attachments following the bumper lines similar to the attached picture. I think it will be easier to do it this way rather than trying to just extend the bumper the needed 3"-4" on either side.

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Old 03-08-2015, 08:14 AM   #38
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Default Re: My 67 800

I like the idea of widening in the center. Would make the stinger match the grill better. Eather way will look good.
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77 traveler- if I don't set the sawzaw down I won't have a scout anymore.http://www.ihpartsamerica.com/forums...k-crawler.html
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Old 03-08-2015, 08:22 PM   #39
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Default Re: My 67 800

Don't pretend extend. The idea to add in middle sounds good.
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Old 04-26-2015, 08:56 AM   #40
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Default Re: My 67 800

Nothing to update. With spring here I have been busy with projects around the house and little league.

Did pick up the break lines from IHPA and some other misc. Things for wiring. Will try to get back to the Scout when baseball ends.

I did help a friend pick up this Scout that he won at an online auction. It has a Chevy 350, 4 speed, and Jeep Dana 300. With it being an 80 the motor was just stuffed back close to the firewall and they notched to sheet metal on the drivers side to clear the exhaust manifold, there was no thought to move the radiator and bring the motor farther forward a few inches which would have been a better choice. Overall the body is rough and the work that was done on it is not bad but it could have been better with a little more planning.

He's got it started and the motor runs good. Needs new brake and clutch master cylinders and some wiring work but it will be drive-able soon.

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Old 09-07-2015, 03:16 PM   #41
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Default Re: My 67 800

Its been a long summer of projects around the house and I am still not done, but I finally got back to the Scout for part of a day. With fall and winter on the way I should start to make some more progress.

Today I got my parking brake lever set up and came up with a plan for routing the cables.


Under side of the tunnel, you can see the recess that was made to drop the shifter.
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Parking brake lever
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Clearance to t case. This setup gets rid of the bracket and lever that passes under the drive shaft and moves everything above the drive shaft.
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Seriously thinking about converting the rear brakes to disk. All this work makes me want to get it done now and not have to do it later after everything is together and running. I'll try to have some more updates soon.
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Old 09-12-2015, 11:35 AM   #42
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Default Re: My 67 800

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Originally Posted by dc67 800 View Post
I think this question will be ok with the mods.

Have any of you used d&c extreme's cage kit for our 80/800's?
Have you dealt with the new owner?

The roll cage is a project I don't want to tackle from scratch as I don't have access to a bender and don't want to buy one.
I don't mind putting together a kit.

Thanks
damian
I've been using d&c for the last year. Eric the new owner has helped me build my Scout. I have received excellent customer service and competitive pricing. I installed their cage last week and rolled my Scout last weekend. The cage performed perfectly, the fit and quality is outstanding.

Thanks.

Shawn
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Old 09-19-2015, 07:26 PM   #43
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Default Re: My 67 800

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Originally Posted by slewis325 View Post
I've been using d&c for the last year. Eric the new owner has helped me build my Scout. I have received excellent customer service and competitive pricing. I installed their cage last week and rolled my Scout last weekend. The cage performed perfectly, the fit and quality is outstanding.

Thanks.

Shawn
Shawn,
thanks for the info. For some reason I didn't get an email that there was a reply to my thread and I haven't checked it in a while.

Did you take any pictures of the assembly? Did the Scout survive?
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Old 09-19-2015, 08:35 PM   #44
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Default Re: My 67 800

So I went for the rear disk brake upgrade. I won't go into every detail as it is the same as bill usn-1 did over at justih. Thanks for the great informational posts bill.


Here is the Chevy rotor drilled and fit, it was some work but I was able to make it fit. Just went slow and worked my way up in size with drill bits. The raised ridge on the drum centers the rotor when they are placed front to front, then the one stud hole that lines up can be used to bolt the two together. I was then able to use a drill bit the same size as the stud holes to Mark the centers.

I was initially going to use the Ford f150 front rotors as that is what I have on the front axle, would have been nice to have all four be the same. The Ford rotor was slightly thicker, I would have had to shave the pads a little to get them to fit. That was not a killer for me. The thing that made me change my mind was he fact that it didn't fit over the axle flange. So I decided I would rather redrill the Chevy rotors than machine down the axle flange.
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Cadillac el dorado rear caliper. I need to get pressure on the piston from the e brake to hold everything in place when the brackets are being located on the axle. Bill said he used a zip tie to do it, but that spring is strong. I might need to remove the spring and then use a zip tie.
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I didn't have an old pair of calipers so I was missing the short rigid brake line that came off of the caliper, that line is metric on the caliper end and standard on the other. Didn't really want to hunt down an old rusty one or go to GM to try to find one. Luckily I found someone with some knowledge at one of the local parts stores. Found these short brake hoses with a banjo bolt hole on one end and 3/8-24 on the other. I just had to get a couple of metric banjo bolts and I was good to go.
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Couple of pics of the stainless brake lines from IHPA. I had to fab a tab for the rear one at the diff. The upper end of all the lines are just the weld on tabs that come with the brake line kit.
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Last edited by DC67 800; 09-19-2015 at 08:47 PM..
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Old 10-04-2015, 06:00 PM   #45
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Default Re: My 67 800

Got the rear disk brakes wrapped up. Took a little time to figure out how the cadillac rear calipers worked, but once I did it made it a lot easier. Next step will be brake lines and e brake cables. I've test fitted the lokar e brake cables and have a plan for routing.
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You can see how close the caliper comes to the wheel weights. During fabrication I began to question myself as to whether I wanted to use the Chevy rotors and have to redrill new ones in the future. I went and picked up a pair of 2000 dodge rotors to try them out. They were huge. The caliper wouldn't fit inside the wheel. So those were returned and the Chevy's were my choice. Drilling for the 5 on 5.5 was not that hard.
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Here is the wilwood adjustable proportioning valve. This being a combo proportioning valve it has two lines out for the front brakes and one out to the rear brakes that can be adjusted.
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