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Old 12-28-2017, 08:31 PM   #1
scoutmax
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Default Alternator problem 10si

Used the instructions on the above sticky, to connect the 10si alternator. My light stays on when the ignition is turned off. Wire 1 from the alternator is connected to a light then to ignition switch on the ignition side, this is an independent wire. Also on the ignition side is the resistance wire on another prong of the switch. When I disconnect the resistance wire, the light turns off, when the ignition switch is on the off position. This on a 1966 scout 800. The light did not turn on while it was running, but as soon as I turn it off the light would stay on. What Iím I missing???
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Old 12-29-2017, 09:12 AM   #2
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Default Re: Alternator problem 10si

So you've converted from an externally regulated alternator to the internally regulated 10si. Which IGN switch terminal do you have your idiot bulb connected to? It needs to be a switched ON terminal, not a constant ON terminal. This resistor wire you mention...have you traced it out of the cab to the engine side? I'm suspecting that might be the switched feed to your coil POS terminal.
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Old 12-29-2017, 12:24 PM   #3
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Default Re: Alternator problem 10si

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Size:  66.1 KBYes, that resistance wire goes to positive side of the coil and also to r side of starter. Hereís a pic how I have it hooked up, on the ignition switch, is this right? Do have to disconnect any wires? The orange wire is the wire for the light and goes to ignition and alternator. The black taped wire is the resistance wire. Thanks
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Old 12-29-2017, 01:33 PM   #4
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Default Re: Alternator problem 10si

This is a bit off topic, but since you mentioned it, the wire running between the starter solenoid 'R' terminal and the coil POS terminal should be a standard automotive wire chunk, not a resistor wire. This is the resistor bypass feed, which briefly sends full volts to the coil to aid in lighting the cold engine off. When the engine catches and the starter is released, the resistor feed to the coil then supplies reduced voltage to the coil keeping the engine running until the IGN is switched OFF. The resistor wire feed to the coil should run directly from the IGN switch "I" or "ON" or "RUN" terminal to the coil. It shouldn't be going directly to the starter. Also, the original, unmodified length of the resistor wire to the coil is important for achieving correct primary resistance in that circuit. This is not the same resistor wire that may or may not have originally been used in your Scout to excite the alternator charge feature. That's a different wire altogether, as discussed in Mayben's "10si" sticky thread you've been referring to. So double check all that. I could see the potential for a voltage back feed if the coil resistor wire routing had deviated from what I described above.
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Old 12-29-2017, 04:27 PM   #5
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Default Re: Alternator problem 10si

The resistance wire only goes to the connector to the ignition switch then on the outside it is regular wire that goes to the coil and the another wire to r on the starter, just like the circuit diagram scout 800. Iíll have to double check the wires and maybe my alternator is bad. Iíll take the alternator to autozone have it checked.
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Old 12-29-2017, 04:47 PM   #6
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Default Re: Alternator problem 10si

Ok, so is the actual resistor wire portion longer than you think it would need to be, with the excess length folded into a bundle and wrapped in electrical tape?

Yes, I think having your alternator tested is a good move.
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Old 12-29-2017, 05:20 PM   #7
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Default Re: Alternator problem 10si

No, the resistance wire just goes to the fire wall connector and to the ignition switch, there is no more wire in the electrical tape, although I did cut a small piece to put a connector and did not have trouble starting it before. I think my best bet to have the alternator tested and go from there.
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Old 12-29-2017, 09:33 PM   #8
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Default Re: Alternator problem 10si

Hmm. Yeah the trouble I'm thinking of wouldn't be in getting the engine started, but in keeping the coil from overheating and the points from failing prematurely due to insufficient resistance. If you have a handheld multimeter, it would be easy to measure the resistance across both ends of that resistor wire to see what the value is in ohms. I'm used to the later IH vehicles which had the resistor wire moved outside into the engine bay. These Scouts with the resistor wire in the cabin intrigue me.
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Old 12-30-2017, 02:02 PM   #9
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Default Re: Alternator problem 10si

Hey, got the alternator working, bad alternator. Seem everything was hooked up right, just bad alternator. Thanks scoutboy74 for the help, it sure helps us new guys, having this information on the forums.
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Old 12-30-2017, 07:15 PM   #10
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Default Re: Alternator problem 10si

Good deal.
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Old 02-12-2018, 12:31 PM   #11
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Default Re: Alternator problem 10si

Same Alternator discussion, different issue:

I have a 77 SII, 196/3sp/D44 front and rear. My alternator was going "wonky", then finally quit. I had a spare, installed it, but here is the problem:

at idle (600 RPM), I am getting 13 volts to battery
at 1000 RPM, I am getting 14.5 volts to battery
at 2000 RPM, I am getting 15.5 volts to battery

This seems a bit high for this alternator and I don't want to overcharge the battery and kill it. what should I be looking for as to the charging issue? could it be the internal voltage regulator? Is the "tickler" wire from #1 involved? Is the alternator trying to charge up the weak battery?

This info is from the my driveway and not driving around for a while.

Please and thanks>
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Old 02-12-2018, 12:45 PM   #12
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Default Re: Alternator problem 10si

Where is the voltage being measured? It shouldn't go 14.5 at the fuse block/amp meter.
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Old 02-12-2018, 01:04 PM   #13
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Default Re: Alternator problem 10si

The mention of a weak battery requires a bit more discussion. Is it just partially depleted, or does it have a tough time taking and/or holding a charge? Its really difficult to address any electrical issue when the battery is discharged for whatever reason to begin with. Do you have a charger that you could use to bring the battery up with first? If you can do that, then once the battery is fully charged, wait at least an hour with it off the charger before doing anything. Then measure the battery surface charge across the terminals. You want to see at least 12.6V surface charge a good hour after charging ended. If you've got that, then throw it back in the Scout and take your readings while the engine is running with no accessories on. See if it makes any difference.
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Coal Trickle - '99 Dodge Ram 2500 Q-Cab SWB 4x4 - 5.9L 24V CTD/NV4500
Hooty - '74 SII - 392/TF727/D20/3.73 D44's/Spartan FA/Krac-lok RA/RC 4" SUA/34x10.5 TSLs/33g Fuel/HFT 8k winch
Mongo - '71 1210 Std Cab 2WD - 345/TF727/RA17 D60 4.10 Trac-lok - "Mongo love candy! Duh, huh, huh!"
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Old 02-12-2018, 01:36 PM   #14
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Default Re: Alternator problem 10si

Re: where I am getting the readings - I am getting the reading at the battery with engine running. I also take the readings at the alternator to see if there is any difference in readings. There is "maybe" a one-half volt drop from alternator to battery.

re: charging the battery - I was thinking of just driving the Scout around for a couple of hours, let it get nice an warm, then once back at home, let it cool down then test. No good?
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Old 02-12-2018, 01:46 PM   #15
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Default Re: Alternator problem 10si

If that's your only option, then you gotta do what you gotta do. Is it low enough that you're having to jump start it with another vehicle to get it going?
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Mongo - '71 1210 Std Cab 2WD - 345/TF727/RA17 D60 4.10 Trac-lok - "Mongo love candy! Duh, huh, huh!"
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