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Old 03-14-2017, 03:45 PM   #16
Jeffsarasota
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Default Re: HOLLEY DISTRIBUTOR HELP?😬😬

Manual pump. I assume it's working ok because I have visually watch the fuel filter when driving and it always stays full and never goes dry. My original thought was a fuel pump issue or at least filter never seems to be out of fuel ( hood off of truck right now ).
Do I manually engage the choke by just pulling that rod down in a lower position or perhaps trying to fix the plastic cam on the driver side so that it keeps the choke on?
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Old 03-14-2017, 04:30 PM   #17
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Default Re: HOLLEY DISTRIBUTOR HELP?😬😬

You can either pull on the rod or press on the butterfly plate. I wouldn't do anything that would tweak or upset the normal actuation. I think the plastic cam is for your fast idle step down.
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Old 03-14-2017, 05:27 PM   #18
Jeffsarasota
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Default Re: HOLLEY DISTRIBUTOR HELP?😬😬

Great. I will check it out tomorrow after work. Don't know why I just thought of this but it May be important. When I set the timing to a "normal" level let's say at zero or 5 initial advance. When trying to drive the car it will backfire through the carburetor. It has basically no throttle response it bogs and hesitates and backfires. It never backfires when I crank the timing up 10 or more.
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Old 03-14-2017, 06:28 PM   #19
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Default Re: HOLLEY DISTRIBUTOR HELP?😬😬

Umm hmm. Well, popping back thru the carb can be a sign of fuel starvation. So, I'm thinking that with your choke applied and the timing backed off a bit, the thing just might almost be driveable. We shall see. If having the choke applied improves things at all, then I'm going to be calling major bs on your "pro" carb rebuild. Since we're kind of in hiatus for the evening, I can't hold my anti-2210 bias back any longer. I think they make great paperweights. They're not that tuneable. They can be downright finicky to tune. They were developed as an emissions carb during the very dark emissions days of the early to mid 70's. They worked alright for what they were back then, but they don't make a pimple on a performance carb's ass today. They're worth having and rebuilding if you live in an area where vehicles of a certain vintage are subject to periodic smog inspections included visual underhood peek-sees. Or if you're doing a by the numbers, bolt by bolt concours level restoration where every last washer and screw has to be an original part, then you need the original carb. Outside of those two scenarios, they aren't worth messing with, unless you're just a glutton for punishment who just can't back down from a challenge and you really want to prove to the world that you have the chutspa to tame the shrew that is the Holley 2210. Me, I'd rather spend my time in other pursuits, but to each his own. I hope you didn't pay too much to have your carb refreshed, because I have a decent hunch that something wasn't done right.
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Mongo - '71 1210 Std Cab 2WD - 345/TF727/RA17 D60 4.10 Trac-lok - "Mongo love candy! Duh, huh, huh!"
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Old 03-15-2017, 11:59 AM   #20
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Default Re: HOLLEY DISTRIBUTOR HELP?😬😬

Scout boy you are an absolute genius !!!! I wired the choke flap closed so it was only about 15% open and the bog and hesitation has disappeared. Then I pulled out 5 of timing. Still drives great.
I cannot thank you enough for all your help!
Now to answer your other question. I do need to use this carburetor in the short term while I am doing the restoration. After that my plan is to go to a four barrel intake and a fuel injection set up. So now I need some more advice.
1. Do I drive this thing around like it is with the choke wired closed? ( I'm assuming this would not be the right answer )
2.can I pull the top off carb and just put in fatter jets myself?
3.should I mail it back to the carburetor shop and tell them they need to make it richer because there's a flat spot in the middle of the range?( they will not charge me for this I have already spoken with them on the phone )
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Old 03-15-2017, 05:19 PM   #21
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Default Re: HOLLEY DISTRIBUTOR HELP?😬😬

Better to be lucky than good, I always say. Sorry for the delay. I just started a new job today, so my temporary life of leisure has ended. That's a good thing though.
It won't hurt anything except for maybe your mileage to drive it with the choke partially closed for awhile. If the morning start up is cold where you live, your going to want that choke to snap shut all the way on your initial warm up before you "haywire hank" it into place. Kind of a hassle, I know.
I don't think this is a jet size issue. It probably has the same jets in it that it rolled off the line with. They got the job done back then. The craptacular corn squeezins alky gazz that we're forced to burn these days does tend to burn a bit lean. The jets might be a size too small for optimum a/f ratio, but shouldn't be so far off to be causing the severity of issue that you've had. I'm leaning more towards an incorrect or damaged gasket somewhere that's either capping a hole that needs to be open, or the reverse. Or it could be that some internal orifice is plugged up. It doesn't take much of a blockage to cause problems with these mixers.
If the carb shop is willing to take another stab at getting it right at no additional cost to you, I say absolutely have them go over it again when its convenient for you. I don't know if they have any way to hook it up to a test mule and put it through its paces before they bless it as healed, but that would be extra handy if they could.
What's the mean elevation where you play? If you're up pretty high, (6 to 10k) it would be super easy to over jet to the point of belching black smoke, fouling plugs and making your eyes burn from the Rich exhaust smell. You don't want to go to that extreme. So if any jet change is made it should be very subtle. No more than one or two sizes above whats in it now. And make sure you get the removed jets back to have as keepsakes.
Gradual changes followed by testing is better that drastic measures. I still feel like they need to scratch and sniff a little deeper than jets. Something else is wrong.
As for your future plans, don't quote me because I'm not all that lerned up in efi, but you might not need a 4bbl intake as a base for a suitable setup. Your present 2bbl might be fine. That would be a question for bill hamilton in the injection tech section. Navy bill can get you on the right path when the time comes.
I'm glad we were able to make some headway with this headache to the point that you can drive the sumbitch without advancing the timing elevendybillion degrees. I knew that wasn't going to be the right recipe.
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Coal Trickle - '99 Dodge Ram 2500 Q-Cab SWB 4x4 - 5.9L 24V CTD/NV4500
Hooty - '74 SII - 392/TF727/D20/3.73 D44's/Spartan FA/Krac-lok RA/RC 4" SUA/34x10.5 TSLs/33g Fuel/HFT 8k winch
Mongo - '71 1210 Std Cab 2WD - 345/TF727/RA17 D60 4.10 Trac-lok - "Mongo love candy! Duh, huh, huh!"
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Old 03-15-2017, 06:08 PM   #22
Jeffsarasota
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Default Re: HOLLEY DISTRIBUTOR HELP?😬😬

Thanks again and congrats on the job. I am at sea level in florida so the only altitude we get is by looking up.ill send the carb back to them for some rework. I was reading another thread today and it said these motors need a big pump shot when using these smog carbs. Ill sent a note with the carb with these recommendations. Fingers crossed
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Old 03-15-2017, 06:44 PM   #23
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Default Re: HOLLEY DISTRIBUTOR HELP?😬😬

Thanks. Good for you for spending some time trying to lern yerself up guder. Big 10-4 on the pump shot. These rigs are heavy and it takes a strong shot of juice to get them going from a dead stop. This is something you can check yourself next time you get the notion. With the engine off and the choke open, position yourself over the carb with a flashlight and blip the throttle. You want to see two strong squirts, one in either hole and there shouldn't be any lag between the linkage movement and the squirts. Anemic dribbles don't get it done.
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Favorite hobby...Driving Salma Hayek in my Scout

Coal Trickle - '99 Dodge Ram 2500 Q-Cab SWB 4x4 - 5.9L 24V CTD/NV4500
Hooty - '74 SII - 392/TF727/D20/3.73 D44's/Spartan FA/Krac-lok RA/RC 4" SUA/34x10.5 TSLs/33g Fuel/HFT 8k winch
Mongo - '71 1210 Std Cab 2WD - 345/TF727/RA17 D60 4.10 Trac-lok - "Mongo love candy! Duh, huh, huh!"
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Old 03-25-2017, 11:17 AM   #24
Jeffsarasota
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Default Re: HOLLEY DISTRIBUTOR HELP?😬😬

Just want to say thank you scoutboy for your help. You are an invaluable resource. Just got the carburetor back from the rebuilder they fatten it up and everything is working great. Drop the initial timing down to 10 without vacuum. Everything works great,starts easy,runs cool,no bog or flat spots!!
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Old 03-25-2017, 11:47 AM   #25
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Default Re: HOLLEY DISTRIBUTOR HELP?😬😬

Great report! Glad to help.
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Favorite hobby...Driving Salma Hayek in my Scout

Coal Trickle - '99 Dodge Ram 2500 Q-Cab SWB 4x4 - 5.9L 24V CTD/NV4500
Hooty - '74 SII - 392/TF727/D20/3.73 D44's/Spartan FA/Krac-lok RA/RC 4" SUA/34x10.5 TSLs/33g Fuel/HFT 8k winch
Mongo - '71 1210 Std Cab 2WD - 345/TF727/RA17 D60 4.10 Trac-lok - "Mongo love candy! Duh, huh, huh!"
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