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Old 07-15-2017, 02:54 PM   #61
428street
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Default Re: Need help with vacuum advance with 304 and 2300 Holley

Thanks Scoutboy, I did just get back from a ride with the Scout and it does seem to have a little more pep but not crazy...interesting thing is the oil pressure gauge kept rising and falling at idle (I only noticed this when I got back in my driveway, did not notice it while driving)...gonna take it out for another ride tomorrow and pay more attention to OPG...also going to do the carb adjustments like you mentioned...Monday I'll deal with the electrical side...it's always something new with these old rigs...
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Old 07-15-2017, 03:33 PM   #62
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Default Re: Need help with vacuum advance with 304 and 2300 Holley

Scoutboy, talk to me about ballast resistor checking, i.e., if I need a resister inline or not...this has always confused me...
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Old 07-15-2017, 09:25 PM   #63
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Default Re: Need help with vacuum advance with 304 and 2300 Holley

Quote:
Originally Posted by 428street View Post
Thanks Scoutboy, I did just get back from a ride with the Scout and it does seem to have a little more pep but not crazy...interesting thing is the oil pressure gauge kept rising and falling at idle (I only noticed this when I got back in my driveway, did not notice it while driving)...gonna take it out for another ride tomorrow and pay more attention to OPG...also going to do the carb adjustments like you mentioned...Monday I'll deal with the electrical side...it's always something new with these old rigs...
OPG...are you talking the stocker with horizontal line between L and H, or are you talking about an aftermarket wet gauge with numbers? If stock gauge, how do the Fuel and Temp gauges behave? Here comes my lecture about the stock gauges. You'll have to forgive me if I sound a little too much like Leo Getz from LWII. Okay, okay, okay. Never trust the stock gauges, okay. The stock gauges will fork you in the drive thru, okay. They'll fork you in the drive thru. With a new to you rig, I would highly recommend you at least get a wet OPG with numbers on it to compare against what the stocker is telling you. That can easily go for the temp gauge too. Here comes another lecture. If you're going to install a wet OPG with the intention of leaving it in place permanently, PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE do not retain the cheapo vinyl tubing. That is an invention of the devil, pure and simple. Save up your frog skins and buy a coil of copper tubing to run in place of the evil vinyl. The vinyl is only suitable for a temporary hookup that you plan on disconnecting as soon as you've seen some OP numbers at cold idle, hot idle and while driving at a steady rpm. And you should never, ever, never drive a vehicle in the dark that has a wet OPG connected via vinyl tubing. That is a recipe for absolute disaster. If the tubing melts or gets a puncture in it, say bye bye to your motor oil. Then if you drive long enough in the dark with no idea that you're hemorraging motor oil due to a punctured, evil vinyl tube, you can say bye bye to your engine too. Hence my stern warning.

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Originally Posted by 428street View Post
Scoutboy, talk to me about ballast resistor checking, i.e., if I need a resister inline or not...this has always confused me...
Basically, if you have breaker points, then you need additional primary resistance upstream from the coil. If you have electronic ignition, then you don't need additional resistance. That isn't true 100% of the time, but close enough for the sake of this discussion. The added resistance can be provided in one of two ways, but should never be both in combination. One way is done via a resistance wire as the main switched B+ feed from the IGN to the coil + terminal. The length of this wire is critical for achieving proper ballast. In IH vehicles, this wire was 72 inches long...much longer than necessary to span the distance from the BHC to the coil, but that length was good for 1.8 ohms of resistance. The excess wire length was simply folded back over itself again and again in a sloppy manner and then wrapped with electrical tape. Very professional looking. This wire is different from all the others under the hood. It has kind of an odd, cloth-like insulation as opposed to the colored, vinyl insulation on all the other standard wires. If the length of this wire has been obviously altered by a previous lummox, or simply isn't there and you have a breaker points distributor, then you will need to provide the additional ballast via another means.
That would be accomplished with a ceramic ballast resistor rated at 1.8 ohms, which is normally mounted to the firewall near where the IGN feed to the coil passes through. That feed to the coil is simply interrupted by the ballast resistor. Badaboom, badabing. Done and done.
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Old 07-16-2017, 02:58 PM   #64
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Default Re: Need help with vacuum advance with 304 and 2300 Holley

SB, I'll address your last post later or next couple days...TBC...I have all factory gauges now but that will soon change

Baby steps today, I ripped apart the distributor (cap) and took the points out and checked that the mechanical advance works properly and it appears as it does, it slides freely back and forth. I added some dielectric grease to the wear mark areas I could see on the base of the dizzy...put everything back and regapped the points to .017, tightened all the screws, etc.

I also started to work on getting the EM bolt off so I can install the heat shield. Didn't get to far because the PO left I believe pieces of the original one or something else that was on the bolt head and I could not get a wrench around the head. After looking at the pictures, it also might be a bolt head stop like they have on the hub locks on the front axle. I have a plan for this...it's called a dremel tool and will cut away the metal left over and go from there...

See pics...
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Old 07-17-2017, 04:25 AM   #65
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Default Re: Need help with vacuum advance with 304 and 2300 Holley

Points install ?...

In order for me to set the points correctly does the lobe on the dizzy have to be at it's highest point then I set the gap of .017?
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Old 07-17-2017, 04:37 AM   #66
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Default Re: Need help with vacuum advance with 304 and 2300 Holley

Points rubbing block needs to be resting against any of the eight high points.
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Old 07-17-2017, 01:52 PM   #67
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Default Re: Need help with vacuum advance with 304 and 2300 Holley

Todays progress...

Put everything back together, turned the crankshaft to get it on one of the high spots on the dizzy, double checked the VA with my mityvac, set points opening to .017, put protector cover on, rotor, cap, etc. Truck started right up no issues.

Tomorrow going to do the timing thing...this should be fun

I also ordered the new 2300 from IHPA, manual choke, fuel bowl line adapter...

I also was screwing around (no pun intended) with the two screws on the back of the carb base, I started on one side and screwed it all the way in then backed out 2.5 turns, no huge change at all. I went to the other side and did the same, as soon as I screwed in to zero so to speak, the engine started to die. My initial thought was that only one side of the carb was working. Doesn't matter much because I bought the new carb but just having fun/learning on this old one...

Last edited by 428street; 07-17-2017 at 02:06 PM..
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Old 07-17-2017, 04:29 PM   #68
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Default Re: Need help with vacuum advance with 304 and 2300 Holley

SB, so I am going through this entire thread and making notes.

I think I finally got this through my thick polack head...

to set points you start with rough .017 off the feeler gauge, on the tighter side. After this is done you hook up a dwell meter...pick up on #8 wire and power for the unit. Dwell should be between 28/32, closer to 28 the better. The dwell is adjusted by opening or closing the gap on the points. Get initial dwell number and turn off engine, change gap setting, put cap back together, re-test dwell. Correct?

once the points and dwell is set (28 best) you move onto the timing and follow your previous instructions...With satisfactory dwell angle achieved, mark your balancer scribe line with soap stone, white out, or your wife's highly reflective nail polish, hook up your disco strobe, crank some ABBA, BeeGees or Donna Summer from the shop juke box, unhook your VA hose from the dizz fitting and block it with a golf tee, and fire up the engine. Connect your inductive clamp to #8 plug wire. Flash that disco light down to the timing index and see what she says. Make note of how steady or jumpy the line is. We want it to be steady. Now, if it is at 0 or 5 degrees you might as well advance the timing by rotating the body. The lockdown bolt will need to be loosened prior to firing the engine. You can then bump it to around 10 degrees advanced. That's in the direction of the biggest numbers on the index scale. Don't go towards the smaller numbers, unless you find that your timing is already advanced beyond 15 degrees. In that case, I would retard it slightly to 10/12 degrees. Timing adjustments will increase or decrease your idle speed, so you may need to bump your speed up/down as needed to keep it in the ideal range (600 to 700 revs). Be sure it isn't running much faster than that at any point while adjusting the timing, as that will throw things off. With dwell, timing and idle speed in good order, you can then back-track to the idle mix adjusting advice in #2. May need to fine dial your idle speed again after those adjustments, but your dwell and timing will be totally unaffected by anything you do to the carb once you've got them set and locked in where they're supposed to be.
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Old 07-17-2017, 08:22 PM   #69
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Default Re: Need help with vacuum advance with 304 and 2300 Holley

It sounds to me like you already successfully set the points in the previous thread. You don't want to use the edge of the feeler gauge as a pry bar. It should slip in between the contact faces easily, but with slight resistance. You don't want a sloppy fit either. Its a goldilocks deal like so many things in life. So with that done, next step is get the engine toasty since it runs and then hook up your dwell. Make sure engine speed is not racing. A true curb idle speed. Then hook up your dwell meter to the coil and see what it says. Your meter may have a setting for number of cylinders. Make sure you have '8' selected or your readings will be thrown off. If you see that your dwell is 30 degrees and steady, I wouldn't futz with any further from there. Good enough. Move onto timing.
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Hooty - '74 SII - 392/TF727/D20/3.73 D44's/Spartan FA/Krac-lok RA/RC 4" SUA/34x10.5 TSLs/33g Fuel/HFT 8k winch
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Old 07-18-2017, 03:16 AM   #70
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Default Re: Need help with vacuum advance with 304 and 2300 Holley

roger that sir, I hope it's that easy We'll see and I will report back on my findings.
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Old 07-19-2017, 10:54 AM   #71
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Default Re: Need help with vacuum advance with 304 and 2300 Holley

one step up, two steps back...

I went to check the dwell on the points and I connected everything up and was excited about doing this as stupid as that sounds because I actually think I know what I am doing or at least understand it and my old Sears Engine Analyzer is dead. Bought this on eBay a while ago and it did work...so I ended up buying another one and waiting for that to come. I checked around to friends that used to do a lot of car stuff and no one had one I could borrow...just in waiting mode now...engine analyzer, new carb, etc.
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Old 07-19-2017, 01:13 PM   #72
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Default Re: Need help with vacuum advance with 304 and 2300 Holley

Dagnabbit!
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Old 07-19-2017, 02:21 PM   #73
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Default Re: Need help with vacuum advance with 304 and 2300 Holley

gonna work on my e-brake tomorrow...it doesn't stay in the locked position...I have two other e-brake assemblies so pretty sure I will fix this problem...I have what seems to be an endless to do list...my goal is by September 1 (close to beginning of fall for us in NE) I have the electronics and carb dialed in, new tires, new exhaust and wipers working and I'm gonna enjoy it for the next couple of months until the snow comes..
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Old 07-20-2017, 07:21 PM   #74
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Default Re: Need help with vacuum advance with 304 and 2300 Holley

I had the small metal catches backwards and thats why the lever would not stay in place. Stupid move, easy fix.
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Old 07-20-2017, 07:30 PM   #75
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Default Re: Need help with vacuum advance with 304 and 2300 Holley

Let's move on to this post since I have some down time.

"OPG...are you talking the stocker with horizontal line between L and H, or are you talking about an aftermarket wet gauge with numbers?

--------> Stocker.

If stock gauge, how do the Fuel and Temp gauges behave?

-------> Fuel gauge seems fairly accurate, say 80-85%. Temp gauge never gets in the perpendicular position which might be a good thing...it's gets max 40-45%.

Here comes my lecture about the stock gauges. You'll have to forgive me if I sound a little too much like Leo Getz from LWII. Okay, okay, okay. Never trust the stock gauges, okay. The stock gauges will fork you in the drive thru, okay. They'll fork you in the drive thru. With a new to you rig, I would highly recommend you at least get a wet OPG with numbers on it to compare against what the stocker is telling you.

---------> OK, any recommendations? Install directions/instructions assuming I've never done this before but will to take a crack at it for sure. I've done a bit of research and I seem to like the VDO gauges. Does the new gauge get routed same way as the old one using the same threaded hole on the engine where the big canister sits now?

That can easily go for the temp gauge too.

---------> OK. Would this use the same element on the top of the intake I believe?

Here comes another lecture. If you're going to install a wet OPG with the intention of leaving it in place permanently, PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE do not retain the cheapo vinyl tubing. That is an invention of the devil, pure and simple. Save up your frog skins and buy a coil of copper tubing to run in place of the evil vinyl. The vinyl is only suitable for a temporary hookup that you plan on disconnecting as soon as you've seen some OP numbers at cold idle, hot idle and while driving at a steady rpm. And you should never, ever, never drive a vehicle in the dark that has a wet OPG connected via vinyl tubing. That is a recipe for absolute disaster. If the tubing melts or gets a puncture in it, say bye bye to your motor oil. Then if you drive long enough in the dark with no idea that you're hemorraging motor oil due to a punctured, evil vinyl tube, you can say bye bye to your engine too. Hence my stern warning."


----------> Warning taken, I have no problem with the copper tubing...been using NiCad on almost everything I have been changing out so far - brake lines, fuel lines, etc.
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