Holley 2210 rebuild part II, reassembly (lots of pics)

[MikeInMobileAL]

The other 2210 rebuild thread Was getting long, so I will document the rebuild reassembly in this thread.

I used the standard hygrade 929a kit.

It comes with the proper throttle body to main body gasket.

The new float, gp sorensen 779-1766 on the far right, looks just like the old ones.

The new needle and seat from the hygrade 929a kit on the far right, looks different.

Its also shorter overall than the old needle/seat assemblies from both carbs.

I installed the new needle and seat with the seat gasket in the kit.

Then the float and float hinge pin.

Set the float level. 3/16 inch from the top of the float to the float limiter stop with the air horn assembly inverted. I use a small screwdriver to bend the float lip. When properly adjusted, the float is usually about level with the air horn assembly.

Set the float drop. Bottom surface of the float should be parallel to the mounting surface of the air horn assembly. To adjust, bend the tang on the back of the float arm.

As the pic above shows, I also installed the fuel bowl baffle.

More later.
Mike

 

[MikeInMobileAL]

I installed the power valve with a modified flat tip screwdriver. A quick hit with a grinder made a small groove in the center of the tip to clear the power valve plunger.

Install the pump discharge needle.

Install the jets. If you checked on removal and they were different sizes, you should have them marked so they can be replaced on the proper sides, choke side/pump side.

Install the accelerator pump assembly after installing the new plunger. Dont forget the washer between the top of the spring and the carb airhorn.

Install the airhorn to carb body gasket.

Lower the airhorn onto the carb body. Make sure you lower the main well tubes into their wells without bending them. The float hinge pin May have to be pushed or pulled slightly to clear the carb body. Everything should fit together easily. If it binds up, dont force it. Stop and check to see whats wrong.

Once you have it fitted together, put a screw in it.

Install the fast idle cam, but not the linkage yet.

More later.

 

[MikeInMobileAL]

Install the throttle body. As Mike m. Has said before, you want these screws as tight as you can get them, on the verge of stripping.

Install the idle mixture screws. I run them all the way in gently, dont want to gall the tips, then back them out 1.5 to 2 turns for a baseline. They will be adjusted further on the truck.

Install the (IH red :d) accelerator pump lever and linkage. I put this back together like it was on teardown and will adjust it as needed to get the pump shot right once its on the truck. It looks like its set pretty good.

Install the fast idle cam linkage and the idle and fast idle adjustment screws. Make sure that when the choke plate is closed, the link is pulling the fast idle cam up to where the adjustment screw hits the high end of the cam as a baseline. This will be set to specs before its put on the truck.

Install the choke pull off and its vacuum hose.

Ihc carb adjustment specs, per standard hygrade 929a kit.
1981- 345 eng - fed - a/t, float level- 3/16, pump adjust- hole 1, pump setting- (none listed), fast idle cam- 7/64, unloader- 15/64, choke diaphram- 1/8, bowl vent- (none listed)

1980-78- 304 eng- carb# r8790, float level- 3/16, pump adjust- hole 1, pump setting- 45/64, fast idle cam- 7/64, unloader- 15/64, choke diaphram- 1/8, bowl vent- (none listed)

1980-78- 304 eng- carb# r7773, float level- 3/16, pump adjust- hole 1, pump setting- 45/64, fast idle cam- 7/64, unloader- 11/64, choke diaphram- 7/64, bowl vent- 1/32

1978-74- 304/345 eng, float level- 3/16, pump adjust- hole 1, pump setting- 45/64, fast idle cam- 7/64, unloader- 7/32, choke diaphram- 9/64 (carb# r7133 set 5/32), bowl vent- 1/64

1976-73- 304/345 eng, carb#s R6620, -1, -2, float level- 3/16, pump adjust- hole 1, pump setting- 45/64, fast idle cam- 7/64, unloader- 7/32, choke diaphram- 7/64, bowl vent- (none listed)

1976-73- 304/345 eng, carb#s r6443, -1, float level- 3/16, pump adjust- hole 2, pump setting- 45/64, fast idle cam- 7/64, unloader- 7/32, choke diaphram- 9/64, bowl vent- 1/64

1976-73- 304/345 eng, carb# r6776, float level- 3/16, pump adjust- hole 1, pump setting- 45/64, fast idle cam- 7/64, unloader- 7/32, choke diaphram- 9/64, bowl vent- 1/64

1976-73- 401 eng, carb#s r6674, -1, -2, float level- 3/16, pump adjust- hole 1, pump setting- 45/64, fast idle cam- 7/64, unloader- 7/32, choke diaphram- 11/64, bowl vent- 1/64

more later.

 

[Erik VanRenselaar]

Did you perform any work on the vacuum piston part of the power valve assembly?

 

[MikeInMobileAL]

did you perform any work on the vacuum piston part of the power valve assembly?

Nope. I checked the vacuum actuation on the piston using the method Mike m. Described in the mityvac thread, and mine worked fine with no sticking or chattering. When vacuum was applied to the proper port with the mityvac, the piston retracted and than popped back out. As noted in that thread, it doesnt hold vacuum, but the vacuum applied should make it retract momentarily.

here I rigged one of the "needle" adapters to insert in the vacuum transfer port on the bowl cover of a Holley "22xx" carb. This is the vacuum source for the power valve actuator piston, that long brass "spool"-appearing item between the two bleed tubes.

As the pump is actuated, that piston should retract but will not hold inna retracted manner...it's not supposed to. The biggest problem we find with these carbs is either a piston that won't move, or one that simply will not hold vacuum. The proper operation of the power valve circuit is imperative to correct performance of these carbs, after rebuilding, this portion of the carb must be tested before re-assembly.

I did hold the piston in and sprayed carb cleaner through the vacuum passage both ways just to make sure it was clean.

There is not much to the piston assembly. Just the piston, a spring, and the retaining washer.

The pic above is the carb I didnt rebuild.

Mike

 

[superc_1]

Minmobile
this is what I've been looking for, exactly!! Thank you for the thread and time its taking! Have you finished the rebuild? I know you were close to the end, but I was hoping to see you complete it and show how to verify that all the linkages are checked and adjusted to spec, and maybe even showing installation on the Scout? Just hoping and wishing? Thanks again for a great write-up!!!

 

[Beach scout]

Wow!!!! This is great! Before I saw this I was really scared about rippin my carb apart but now I'm pretty sure I can do it, and where can I find that rebuild kit? And how much?

 

[winklershop]

I did this exact carb rebuild on my 1965 dodge coronet.

I got it all done and I am having problems with the pump discharge needle. It keeps getting stuck. I wanted to replace it but I cant find new replacements anywhere. Its not that dirty...but there is some black spots on it that I cant get off.

Where can I get one of these or how do it clean it to make sure it doesnt get stuck again...

Thanks!

 

[blucosmon]

My 2210 starts up fine but after about two minutes when engine warms up the engine will start to sputter, cough, run rough and finally die. Fuel pressure is 6psi. Is the carb flooding? Any one have this same problem?

 

[Erik VanRenselaar]

my 2210 starts up fine but after about two minutes when engine warms up the engine will start to sputter, cough, run rough and finally die. Fuel pressure is 6psi. Is the carb flooding? Any one have this same problem?

Make sure the choke system is adjusted/functioning properly. That includes the vacuum pulloff.

 

[DABEARZ]

I was trying to get information on the fast idle linkage im having trouble with mine everything seems to be installed correctly but my linkage is just sliding around and the cam is just staying still. Any help is much appriciated

 

[FDChappie]

The cam should fit it's pivot loose enough that it will fall under it's own weight. If it's stuck in the up position that May account for what you are seeing. Mine likes an occasional shot of carb cleaner when it sticks on high idle.

 

[DABEARZ]

Ok ill give that a shot is the choke plate supposed to have any tension on it when it is not installed? Mine will just full open if I am not holding it

 

[FDChappie]

That is correct. The choke plate is closed/opened by the bi-metal spring on the intake manifold.

 

[Red]

I just finished putting my Holley 2210 together after cleaning. Got to the step where I re-installed the accelerator pump assembly and accelerator pump lever & linkage. I was manually moving the linkage which made the accelerator pump pull up and I noticed that the accelerator pump assembly won't drop down by itself (gravity), I would have to push it down and even then it didn't go down smoothly, sort of jerky/step-wise. So I separate the air horn from the carb body again to check what was going on and figured out that the new rubber seal washer that came with my re-build kit is just slightly bigger than the old one such that it doesn't allow the plunger assembly to freely move in its passage. I tried putting a little triflow on the seal but that didn't help, still sticky. So, I'm just going to re-use the old rubber seal...hope that works.