Azrael0069
New member
Can I use a set of hd 5 inch shackes on the front of my 77 Scout II? I ask because there is a torsion bar that connects the ones on the front right now. Can I remove it and install beefier shackles? Thanks for any help.
Scout II front shackles
- Thread starter Azrael0069
- Start date
JMiller
Member
Yes, you can remove it and install hd shackles but it is not recommended if most of your driving is on the road and not dirt. I believe you are talking about the "straight steer" that bolts to the front shackle plates???
I just bought these 2 weeks ago and they allowed me to retain the straight steer. It is also easily removed by 4 bolts for better front flex if you are heading off road.
Scout II 5" front shackle set - International Scout parts
I actually bought the 5" shackle kit and put them all the way around.
Scout II 5" shackle kit - International Scout parts
I just bought these 2 weeks ago and they allowed me to retain the straight steer. It is also easily removed by 4 bolts for better front flex if you are heading off road.
Scout II 5" front shackle set - International Scout parts
I actually bought the 5" shackle kit and put them all the way around.
Scout II 5" shackle kit - International Scout parts
Azrael0069
New member
Perfect, thanks!!!
She is 90% off road but occasionally on road to get to the local mud hole and trails. I am retrofitting her for a hunting rig and I want to run a little bit larger of a tire and the shackles and a 1 inch body lift will do what I need.
So what was IH's purpose on the straight steer bar. I see so many scouts of all years bumping around central fl without it.
She is 90% off road but occasionally on road to get to the local mud hole and trails. I am retrofitting her for a hunting rig and I want to run a little bit larger of a tire and the shackles and a 1 inch body lift will do what I need.
So what was IH's purpose on the straight steer bar. I see so many scouts of all years bumping around central fl without it.
Last edited:
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
Sounds like you and jarrett are building your rigs for the same purpose!!!
That oem option "straight steer bar" that is bolted between the shackle plates is actually a form of an "anti-sway" bar/device. And because of the shackle-forward design of the Scout/Scout II front suspension, it's actually fairly effective for a street-driven rig. But it can be somewhat "flex"-inhibiting for a rig used in a more serious offroad mode.
A true "straight steer" device is an add-on component developed and marketed by several aftermarket companies in order to stiffen the front section of the Scout II frame in the area of the steering gear. It ties the main rails together in the same manner as an additional crossmember. I consider that item imperative for a Scout II if it's lifted and runs big tires! Otherwise, they are a bitch to make go straight down the road without wandering around like a flexi-flyer.
Along with the straight steer unit, it's desirable to plate the frame where the steering gear attaches...that is an extremely weak point and even a stock sii with oem-design/size tires May have developed cracks in the frame rail around the steering gear, many rigs you May see have had the frame welded/repaired in that area. If they haven't been repaired, I bet you will see some evidence of cracking!!
Ihon has readymade plates in stock for adding reinforcement to the Scout II frame at the steering gear mount point.
JMiller
Member
Azrael0069...you can't go wrong with m. Mayben's advice. Safety is a big concern of his.
And yes...our rigs are being built for roughly the same purpose. I bought mine with the intentions of only a hunting buggy due to the amount of rust it had. But I didn't have any work going at the time and the Scout bug bit me hard so I just jumped in head first and now have a nice weekend lake runner as well as a hunting buggy during deer season.
Without m. Mayben I am sure my rig would still be sitting in the shop begging for someone who knew what they were doing to work on it.
I have the 5" shackles, 1" body lift, new body bushings, 4" trailmaster lift, and 32x11.50 bfgs. I do recommend purchasing the shims to correct your caster for steering purposes but keep an eye on your pinion angle. Mine with the 4* shims is now slightly angling towards the ground instead of level. Because of the amount of off-road driving I will be doing during season I have decided to go SOA to correct all my angles and steering in one fix. Lot of work but I will feel better about it.
Another option is the severe angle u-joint that I believe ihon sells.
But if I can go taller safely which means I can see more, I'm in.
And yes...our rigs are being built for roughly the same purpose. I bought mine with the intentions of only a hunting buggy due to the amount of rust it had. But I didn't have any work going at the time and the Scout bug bit me hard so I just jumped in head first and now have a nice weekend lake runner as well as a hunting buggy during deer season.
Without m. Mayben I am sure my rig would still be sitting in the shop begging for someone who knew what they were doing to work on it.
I have the 5" shackles, 1" body lift, new body bushings, 4" trailmaster lift, and 32x11.50 bfgs. I do recommend purchasing the shims to correct your caster for steering purposes but keep an eye on your pinion angle. Mine with the 4* shims is now slightly angling towards the ground instead of level. Because of the amount of off-road driving I will be doing during season I have decided to go SOA to correct all my angles and steering in one fix. Lot of work but I will feel better about it.
Another option is the severe angle u-joint that I believe ihon sells.
But if I can go taller safely which means I can see more, I'm in.
Azrael0069
New member
It sounds like great minds think alike. Thank you guys for the wealth of information. Im all about safety too. I don't want to get too far out and not be able to get back. Green swamp here in central fl is very unforgiving. I will be going with the hd shackles with the straight steer bar brackets on them. I don't want to fix what isn't broken so to speak. IH Parts America has everything I will be needing here in the near future.
If the straight steer was removed and the knuckles moved so there is some caster would this help the wonderning and allow for better flex. I'm new to the Scout thing. The Scout I'm building will be mostly on the road but I want it to be capable on the trail.
I have a few jeeps now but I'm really getting into owning an International Scout
I have a few jeeps now but I'm really getting into owning an International Scout
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
The "straight steer" devices are used to stiffen the front section of the frame in the area where most of the steering force is concentrated. Those were developed by the aftermarket and were never incorporated as an oem component.
The Scout II frame is noted for serious "frame flex" forward of the engine bulkhead.
The other issue is cracking/breaking of the frame rail at the point where the steering gear mounts.
These are two separate areas of concern, but involve the same root cause...inadequate frame rail design/construction back in the day! And this is highly magnified when wider wheels with significantly larger tires are mounted.
The rudimentary "anti-roll bar" that others brought up in this thread is a different item for addressing a different issue. And ihon offers shackles both with and without the ability to mount the oem anti-roll bar.
Performing the "knuckle twist" is one way of achieving a change in positive caster angle which will definitely improve straight-ahead tracking on a stock Scout II, along with inducing some "return-to-center" of the steering wheel/system once a turn is completed without having to manually correct steering input. It will do nothing regarding "flex" however. Removing the anti-roll bar changes flex characteristics a bit depending upon how your suspension is currently set up. Ya will most likely want to retain it for on-road use, and remove for off-road.
You can also "improve" the caster setting somewhat by using the steel spring wedges if you are going to retain the oem suspension system/springs inna spring-under config. Maximum wedge angle of 6* will allow the oem front driveshaft/pinion angle to be maintained with no change. That is much more cost-effective (and simple!) method of playing with caster than doing a knuckle twist!
The Scout II frame is noted for serious "frame flex" forward of the engine bulkhead.
The other issue is cracking/breaking of the frame rail at the point where the steering gear mounts.
These are two separate areas of concern, but involve the same root cause...inadequate frame rail design/construction back in the day! And this is highly magnified when wider wheels with significantly larger tires are mounted.
The rudimentary "anti-roll bar" that others brought up in this thread is a different item for addressing a different issue. And ihon offers shackles both with and without the ability to mount the oem anti-roll bar.
Performing the "knuckle twist" is one way of achieving a change in positive caster angle which will definitely improve straight-ahead tracking on a stock Scout II, along with inducing some "return-to-center" of the steering wheel/system once a turn is completed without having to manually correct steering input. It will do nothing regarding "flex" however. Removing the anti-roll bar changes flex characteristics a bit depending upon how your suspension is currently set up. Ya will most likely want to retain it for on-road use, and remove for off-road.
You can also "improve" the caster setting somewhat by using the steel spring wedges if you are going to retain the oem suspension system/springs inna spring-under config. Maximum wedge angle of 6* will allow the oem front driveshaft/pinion angle to be maintained with no change. That is much more cost-effective (and simple!) method of playing with caster than doing a knuckle twist!
Last edited: